Home Automation My wife is onto me... |
- My wife is onto me...
- New Home Construction, Home Automation Craziness Plan, in Nine Simple Steps
- Kasa Smart Plug vs Amazon Plug (Scheduling)
- Honeywell Smart Thermostat reset
- can smartthings hub control devices on two networks?
- New to automation and need help finding a switch.
- MyQ Chamberlain LiftMaster closes but doesn't open
- Beginner question about light switches
- Absolute NOOB xiaomi help
- 2-gang box, need one smart switch.
- Best smart dimmer switch
- Adding liquid cleaners to robot vacuums that have mops?
- [Aqara on Amazon] Restock, promo code extension and some news
- Garage door opener wall controller - is it just a push button?
- Smart Sensor which detects electric current?
- How to determine which devices to isolate to a dedicated network?
- Smart Switch without Neutral help needed!!
- Wiring help
- "OK Google, turn on this light"
- Looking for a way to either disable or turn off immediately a light that turns on in the night
- Recommendations for LEDS on switch down both sides of kitchen
- Lutron Caseta trigger other devices?
| Posted: 21 Dec 2019 01:14 PM PST
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| New Home Construction, Home Automation Craziness Plan, in Nine Simple Steps Posted: 21 Dec 2019 07:01 PM PST I am 62 years old. In my years I have done everything from DIY to touch-screens on the wall. The notion of Home Automation is relatively new with the advancement of computer chips; Wi-Fi; RF, Networking and Z-wave type technology. The last time I did something this detailed was 1998. Back then, your options were limited, the cost was stupidly high, and the stability of your system was always in question. Today, things have changed. Stability is sound. Expense is limited to the size of your project. The ability to use products like Nest™, Philips Hue Lighting, Google Assistant, Harmony RF remote controls and Sonos wireless speakers make DIY fun and easy. Yet to make everything work on one very stable Operating System using one user friendly remote control for home automation, is still stupid expenses. Since this will be my last home and I love this stuff. I decided to take the full jump off the deep end. I looked at Crestron; Elan; Savant; and Control4. I watched every topic on home automation on YouTube. I interviewed five (5) Home Automation Companies both in my location and states away. I came up with a plan. More importantly, I came up with an approach. First; pre-wire the hell out of your home prior to the dry wall going up. That was my intension initially, however the builder forced my hand to get it done quicker than I would have liked. The right way to do it is with Conduent's in the wall. Each TV location should have four (4) CAT6 lines and one Coax cable. The electrical outlets behind the TV need to be recessed. No CAT6 cable should be within 6 inches of a high voltage line. All cables would start at a central location in a well-ventilated equipment room. What I ended up with was no Conduent's, three (3) CAT6 lines to every TV location and no coax. The CAT6 lines that the electrician did were to close to High Voltage, some were dead on them. This forced me to add my third CAT6 line with a Home Automation Installer. Lesson, only use a professional Home Automation Wiring installer from the start. Don't try to be cheap on wiring. Wiring is the cheapest and best investment anyone can make on these types of projects. Second; no matter how many hours you spend on research, you will always miss something. Don't ever think you are an "expert'. Your expertise is in writing a check to pay for it all. This doesn't mean you should not be unbelievably informed. Know your stuff big time. Just don't be surprised if you missed something obvious. My example is I thought by having a 6X6 Video Matrix, it would for sure handle five TV areas. WRONG, four of the lines went through CAT6 cables and two lines were HDMI. No HDMI lines were put in. I never saw that one coming. Third; when your home automation company hits you high, don't loss your crackers. As smart as these folks are, they really suck as sales consultants and most importantly setting client financial expectations. What I did was put together a financial excel spreadsheet (I am a wiz at excel). It had every single cost involved. Took some research but gave me a very realistic expectation of cost. Before I even engages a home theatre company, I knew every expense, every retail price and every alternative way to reduce costs. The good news was they saw my preparation and did not try to talk in circles with technical bull shit. Fourth; Yes, you can get a discount from retail on your equipment. Yes, there is flexibility on programing and installation costs. If your home automation company says, "In my four years of doing this, I have never given a discount on my equipment." Look for another company. Let's remember, they won't do this for free. They also must be competitive. This is not buying a car, it is an area where you should consider paying a premium for a GREAT reputation of follow-up and service. Fifth; Yes, you can consider a company that is out of state. The key is reputation and the ability to remotely service and update your system. Is this concept ideal, NO. However, when you save 15% to 20% you must consider it. In my state, I saved close to $3,000.00 on tax alone because the equipment was sent from another state. Also, I bought things like Touch-Panels retailing for $1400.00 for $900.00 new in unopened box with factory warranty. If the equipment is the issue, all your local home automation company does is send it to the manufacturer. Last I heard, you could do the same thing. My rule is to use out of state proposals to get my local venders to be flexible. I will pay the tax extra to go local. Just common sense here. Sixth; your system will most likely utilize Zigbee or Z-wave wireless technology. Research how this technology really works. Know, some items like very expensive light switches/dimmers assist in the distribution of the "Z" signals. Things like wireless door dead bolts, thermostats and blinds, simple receive the signal. A professional will set up your "Z" web correctly. This is the key to home automation wireless success. Remember, we need trucks and cars both. The Truck does the heavy lifting and the car does the light lifting. Hard wire like coax and CAT6 is the heavy lifting and it should always be use as your first approach. Your WiFi devices like thermostats and door locks are light lifting. I just saved everyone a huge headache. Seventh; tell your programmer what your expectations are up front. Let them know your favorite stations; how you live your life; what you are hoping to accomplish with this system. However, be VERY careful not to ask for things that take special programing unless you are getting a Crestron system where the user interface is 100% custom. If you are using Control4, Savant or Elan; say the following statement to your programmer. "This is what I want to do, however if it takes special programing, let me know what the simple work-around is or I will simply skip doing it." Those three systems use templates that are road tested. Try not to be creative. The Programmer will do it and you will pay lots of programing time. Please learn from my expensive mistakes. Eighth; be the absolute expert with the user interface in your family. I have been married for 40 years. My wife is NOT technical. She does not understand how things work or how they have been developed to work. It took here a year to learn how to use the Sonos app on her phone or the use the Harmony Remote control properly. The installer will be way over her head. You need to be the trainer on the system to your family. You need to be super patient. You would think pressing a macro to watch HBO in the living room should be easy since it is one button. You could not be more wrong. On this same subject, get ready to hear these words. "All I wanted to do was turn on the TV and watch it. Instead you have a rack of expensive equipment and I will never use this darn thing." I am wise beyond my years on this one folks. Nine; this may be the most important thing of every single item I listed. Have a simple back up plan if the system goes down. By the way, the system like RV's, do go down. When my system goes down, the Great Room TV has an Apple TV behind it. We go to the HDMI input #2, my wife uses the original TV remote control and the Apple TV Remote, and all is well for a day or so. Again, learn from me. Every time the system goes down, you are four states away doing business. Murphy's law for Home Automation. Just the way it is. I hope my nine thoughts have help you. Enjoy your home automation. It is so much better and easier then ever before. [link] [comments] | ||
| Kasa Smart Plug vs Amazon Plug (Scheduling) Posted: 21 Dec 2019 03:10 PM PST So I recently bought some Amazon plugs at the $5 sale price to compare to my Kasa Mini plugs. For my use the most relevant difference was the steps to create a new schedule. Below are my thoughts as I go. The bold text links to images. Size comparison picture, convenient size allows the use of both outlet plugs, even when miss matched like in the image.   Now on with the scheduling...on the Kasa side of things it's a simple 3 steps process:
Options screen includes: action (on/off), time (custom times/sunrise/sunset) and repeat (days of the week).   Now onto the Amazon smart plug…   IMO Trying to complete the scheduling was not as intuitive. As you have to navigate through several screens. In the end I did figure it out, here's how it went:
  With nowhere to go next, had to stop and think a bit...   Most likely here's where the average consumer would start to get frustrated, but after a bit found a way for it to work.   As you can see on step 5 'Smart Home' image, there is a 'Control group' option. With that in mind, I added the smart plugs to a group and was able to complete the scheduling without further issues.   So after adding the smart plug to the Alexa app scanning the QR code. It's:
  IMO Amazon should review this rather cumbersome process and make it have a more simple approach by adding a single settings screen after clicking the 'create a routine' suggestion on the smart plug device screen. Or add the Smart Plug as an option on the 'Add action' settings screen with the current setup. If anyone has some insight on something I missed, please let me know. [link] [comments] | ||
| Honeywell Smart Thermostat reset Posted: 21 Dec 2019 07:26 PM PST Howdy. I just moved into a home with a older Honeywell RTH6580WF thermostat. I'm trying to connect it to my WiFi and have run into an obstacle. The device is still registered to the previous owners. Honeywell's customer support says they will need to login to their account and unregister the device before I can connect it to my network. They're not available to me, so I'm stuck. I realize it's just a $70 thermostat, but I'd like to be able to use it. Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] | ||
| can smartthings hub control devices on two networks? Posted: 21 Dec 2019 05:00 PM PST We have two networks in the house. I just got a smartthings hub and before I set it up, was wondering can it control devices across two seperate wifi routers? Or can it only control devices connected to a single wifi/network connection? [link] [comments] | ||
| New to automation and need help finding a switch. Posted: 21 Dec 2019 08:55 PM PST Hello all, I am looking for a recommendation for a black dimmer switch that will work on some recessed, dimmable led lights. The switch will also have to be three way capable. I am assuming that most will require some type if hub or bridge and I'd like for it to be compatible with google assistant. Thanks everybody. [link] [comments] | ||
| MyQ Chamberlain LiftMaster closes but doesn't open Posted: 21 Dec 2019 08:33 PM PST I just installed the MyQ wi-fi garage opener on my Chamberlain Liftmaster and it closes the garage, but doesn't open it. Any ideas what's going on??? [link] [comments] | ||
| Beginner question about light switches Posted: 21 Dec 2019 04:38 PM PST Hello all! I'm looking into replacing one or two light switches to dip my toe into home automation. I'm wondering if I have lights controlled by two switches do I need to replace both or just one? Also are there any switches that play well with apple homekit and home assistant? Eventually I'd like to go the HA way but currently I just want to be able to control my outside lights and potentially put them on a timer some how as getting home in the dark is a pain. Thanks for the help! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2019 05:45 PM PST Purchased my first raspberry pi. Installed hassio, took a while but got there in the end. I'm up and running with some of the integrations but now I'm struggling installing the one to get my Xiaomi rear up and running. I've used the configuration tool to load the script and checked it is verified but I don't know what to do from there. Nothing is showing up. [link] [comments] | ||
| 2-gang box, need one smart switch. Posted: 21 Dec 2019 05:29 PM PST Pretty much what it says: I have a double gang box with standard switches, one light has smart bulbs (and thus is just left on all the time) but the other is a big fluorescent fixture that wouldn't look right swapped out with any sort of regular bulb fixture. (not least because I'm sure they screwed up the popcorn ceiling behind it when it was installed) I want to automate it, but obviously just on/off, and I don't want to have to do drywall work, so just swapping the switch seems best, but most of them seem to have the cover plate integrated into the unit. Any recommendations for something that will work with either a standard or 'designer' cover plate in a double gang box? Ideally Tuya compatible, since everything else I have is, but I will consider others. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2019 11:01 AM PST Are the Lutron dimmers the best to buy to use with Home Assistant? I have a lutron hub already. I am planning out a kitchen remodel. [link] [comments] | ||
| Adding liquid cleaners to robot vacuums that have mops? Posted: 21 Dec 2019 04:44 PM PST Hello all! I recently purchased my first robo vacuum (the roborock s5) and loved it. I returned it when a new version of the vacuum, the roborock s5 max, came out. This robot has pressure that it applies to the floor as it drips water out. I'm curious if anyone has experience adding other fluids to the tank and what concentrations they use it at? Or is it better for me to spray things directly onto my floor? If so, which solutions/concentrations do you recommend? [link] [comments] | ||
| [Aqara on Amazon] Restock, promo code extension and some news Posted: 21 Dec 2019 08:43 AM PST Unfortunately, the post about Aqara Amazon launch did not grab enough attention, but we got some good news for those who was unable to purchase some of our products because they got out of stock quickly. But first, we got a brief FAQ to address the concerns of /homeautomation members: - For those paying extra attention to privacy: automations are stored locally on the Hub so they do not rely on internet connection - Aqara sensors / child devices use Zigbee and have workarounds to be used with Home Assistant IO, SmartThings and Conbee as well as officially with Homekit, Google Assistant, Alexa and MiHome-compatible devices (Hub required). - Yes we know Chinese versions of Aqara products are available from Chinese resellers and their prices are lower, but they: are not localized in terms of software and/or hardware, have way slower delivery and troublesome way of refund. But they still get supported by the official US Hub, so that users have a choice. So, the latest news are the following: - Aqara Hub (US plug version) is back in stock by this link - Amazon Promo code AQARA003 was extended and will be active until next Tuesday. Use it in Aqara Amazon store - Next products to arrive on Amazon will be the Water Leak Sensor and the new US Wall Switches And of course, our team will be happy to answer your questions. Merry Christmas to everyone and thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Garage door opener wall controller - is it just a push button? Posted: 21 Dec 2019 10:50 AM PST My wall controller uses a two-wire connection. Does it just send a pulse to close/open the garage door when pressed? [link] [comments] | ||
| Smart Sensor which detects electric current? Posted: 21 Dec 2019 08:28 AM PST I'm looking for a sensor (zigbee,zwave or anything) from which i can detect if there is electric current. Basically i have a smart-dumb fan with temp/humidity sensor and it's working well. Now i want to know when it's on or off so i can turn on something else via Hubitat or IFTT. Output is 24v 4amp. Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
| How to determine which devices to isolate to a dedicated network? Posted: 21 Dec 2019 12:11 PM PST I have a Unifi USG + APs in my home. I've created a whole new wifi network (SSID) that I use to connect my IoT devices. For now, these are my Amazon Echo devices and Nest devices. The subnet that these devices live on isn't allowed to communicate back to my main, trusted network. The goal is to isolate the IoT devices to a less trusted network. In addition to all of this, I have a Harmony Hub, which I use for my entertainment center. Part of that includes controlling a Roku device. And the Roku device has the Plex channel on it, which (and this is the key here) needs local access to the plex server running on my main network. So the challenge here is that if I move my Harmony to the IoT network (which, by default way of thinking, I would want to do), it can no longer control the Roku. And if I move the Roku over there, it no longer has local access to my Plex server. Basically anything I put on the IoT network, it can't talk to the main network anymore which creates a number of issues. I still have my Harmony on the main network, but my Echo devices aren't going to be able to discover the Roku now because it's on a network they can't reach. I do have an mDNS repeater enabled on my USG which presumably should solve the discoverability issues but if the IoT LAN can't talk to the main LAN I don't see what use there is in discovering devices that Alexa can't control/talk to. Has anyone run into this catch 22 situation? I like the network isolation for security/privacy purposes, but I don't like sacrificing useful functionality for it. Any ideas are welcome! [link] [comments] | ||
| Smart Switch without Neutral help needed!! Posted: 21 Dec 2019 11:16 AM PST Hello homeautoemation, I am fairly new to home automation and need some guidance on smart light switches. My house is older and not wired with a neutral wire. I received an education when I bought a Gosuna Smart Light Switch and found out that it was not compatible with my wiring. My question to you all is am I stuck, or can I buy some sort of adapter to go along with my smart switch to make it work? I tried the typical noob things and wired the neutral from my smart switch to the load. It will turn on and immediately back off again. Help! I dont want to be stumped by my kitchen light! lol. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 21 Dec 2019 07:06 AM PST I am trying to install a switch and a dimmer side by side. The switch is Wemo, the dimmer is Kasa. Each has the usual set of neutral, ground, live, load connectors. The wiring entering the box has two main wires. For the switch it has a black and a white. For the dimmer, black, white, and red. There's also ground. I have had these wired correctly but decided to replace the Wemo smart dimmer with the Kasa and now I'm confused about what I did before (overconfident and failed to properly photograph). The switch needs a wire that's not in its bundle (load I guess) but is in the dimmer bundle. I don't think I should connect them directly. How should I do it? I think originally, a wire connected the switch and the dimmer directly. Is that the load? Edit. Photos added. One is the current situation. The other is of the original (pre-smart) configuration - dimmer on left, switch on right. The only hot wire my tester identifies is the black from the two-wire bundle. None of the wires in the three-wire bundle are hot. I don't understand this ... keep in mind that this wiring was working fine until I took it apart this morning ... https://i.imgur.com/GAWjDWQ.jpg Original pre-smart: [link] [comments] | ||
| "OK Google, turn on this light" Posted: 21 Dec 2019 09:45 AM PST Is it possible to interact with smart devices by pointing at them instead of giving them names? For example, would it be possible to point my finger at a specific light and say "OK Google, turn on this light"? I imagine we have the technology for this, given a camera, pose detection, and a map of the room? Has anyone implemented something like this? How difficult is it? [link] [comments] | ||
| Looking for a way to either disable or turn off immediately a light that turns on in the night Posted: 21 Dec 2019 05:18 AM PST I have three daughters sharing a room. One of them sleep walks and sometimes turns on the light in her room, waking the others. I'd love to figure out a solution to either prevent the light coming on within certain hours, or have it turn immediately off if the first isn't possible. I can probably figure out the second option, though I'd be interested in hearing recommendations for options that have decent APIs. If the first option is possible though, that's much more interesting to me. Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Recommendations for LEDS on switch down both sides of kitchen Posted: 21 Dec 2019 01:01 AM PST I have just had a new kitchen installed and want to have under counter LED strips on both sides of the kitchen, controllable via a wall switch (as opposed to a remote). I've spoken to my builder and apparently in order to achieve this I am going to need 2 drivers that can be paired on each side of the kitchen and a wireless wall switch. I've so far been quoted for a £350 setup but it is only controllable via those tiny little remotes. What is the simplest way to achieve what I am trying to do? [link] [comments] | ||
| Lutron Caseta trigger other devices? Posted: 21 Dec 2019 07:28 AM PST I'm hoping somebody here has an idea on how to help me. I'm relatively new to smart homes in home automation in general, I have my home connected through Alexa, and just recently installed my first set of smart switches using Lutron Caseta (basic kit, not the pro). I do not have a central hub for the entire home, other than the echo plus, which is not really a hub. Here is the situation I'm facing: the people that owned my house before me installed some lights in the ceiling that are not connected to a plug. They used a wireless remote intended for a Hunter fan my work around right now was to purchase some smart bulbs, which is great when I'm wanting voice activation, but I do not like that there is no physical switch. The lutron lights that I put in are in the same room, they just control different lights. what I have been searching for, and have been unable to find, is a way to link it so that when I turn on the lutron lights, they turn on my smart bulbs as well. I'm wanting to avoid the need to rewire those lights. I'm pretty new to all of this, bit could not find anything on IFTTT that allowed me to set a trigger using the lights, and so far I have been unable to find something to do what I am wanting. Does anyone have any ideas? or am I out of luck and need to get those lights rewired? [link] [comments] |
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