Home Automation Amazon, Apple, Google, Zigbee Alliance and board members form working group to develop open standard for smart home devices |
- Amazon, Apple, Google, Zigbee Alliance and board members form working group to develop open standard for smart home devices
- Funny compatibility issue found between "dumb" devices
- Making a sonoff basic as taster switch?
- Ikea 2.0: inside the furniture giant’s big bet on the smart home
- First time building smart home
- Please help with new build
- Nest hello video delay in echo show
- Trying to set up parents' light switches...
- Sengled connection issues
- Smart Bulb? Smart Switch? Smart….Lamp? WITH functional, non-interfering switch
- Google, Apple and Zigbee moving towards an open smart home standard
- Shelly 2.5 has two L terminals
- LED Bulbs Turning _Off_ at Max Brightness w/Multiple Switches & Bulbs
- Would like to get away from monitored systems (Alexa) and set up a local server to control lights and music?
- 5 New Ideas for Using Shelly Devices In Your Smart Home (NOW WITH DIMMING!)
- Wireless plug/light & local control
- Tips on building a bike hoist with communication security
- Raspberry Pi into VPN (Video How-To)
- Home Automation and Home Security....long post, bear with me please!
- Yale Assure Lock with August Connect
- Everytime I ask Alexa to play a video from any of my streaming services after I paused it, my Fire TV cube will instead open spotify and play music
- Apple, Amazon, Google, and the Zigbee Alliance form “Project Connected Home over IP”, a partnership to create a new smart home networking standard
- Switches vs bulbs
| Posted: 18 Dec 2019 05:32 AM PST
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| Funny compatibility issue found between "dumb" devices Posted: 18 Dec 2019 05:16 PM PST Among the many upgrades our house has received since we bought it were an electric tankless water heater, and a whole slew of smart home stuff. When I planned out my home automation install, I considered how a couple of areas of my home may benefit from automation, but not necessarily benefit from a connected device. I could save a couple of dollars this way. A couple of those areas were my hallways, where I had dumb motion dimmers; and my front porch lights, which simply needed to come on at dusk and go off at midnight. I accomplished this with a Defiant brand programmable electronic timer switch. Everything was installed and all was well, and these items have been installed for at least two years now. The other day, however, my neighbor approaches me and asks why my porch lights flash on and off every night around 10pm. I was puzzled and told him I didn't know, but I'd check it out. I watched my lights periodically for the next few nights, but didn't see anything. Finally, one night my wife decides to take a shower without me, and I just happened to be in the living room. I start hearing "CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK" and notice the porch lights going on and off every 2 seconds. It didn't occur to me why it was happening until the next night when my wife ran some hot water in the kitchen and it happened again. It finally occurred to me that the tankless water heater, with its massive drain on my home electrical system while it was running, caused enough of a voltage variation (I checked - it's only 3-4 volts) that it freaked out whatever cheap microcontroller the timer switch used. All other electronics in my house are unaffected. I replaced it with a GE timer switch tonight, and all is well. No more SOS to my neighbors. I thought you all may find my story mildly amusing. tl;dr - Cheap Home Depot timer switch might wig out if you have a beefy energy consumer in your home. [link] [comments] | ||
| Making a sonoff basic as taster switch? Posted: 18 Dec 2019 11:48 PM PST I need a sonoff basic to work as a taster switch not on/off. Is there a way to reprogram it with tasmota and change the relay function so on "ON" it will turn the relay on for 0.5sec and turn it off again but in the app say that is "ON". Than on "OFF" turn the relay "ON" again and turn it off after 0.5sec showing a state off. [link] [comments] | ||
| Ikea 2.0: inside the furniture giant’s big bet on the smart home Posted: 18 Dec 2019 12:36 PM PST
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| First time building smart home Posted: 18 Dec 2019 11:35 PM PST Hello, I am new at this smart home building thing and need a desperate help on what do buy. I am trying to install:
I may want to increase number of smart home devices in the future. Also, I want to avoid wifi but want to use my phone anywhere to check and get updates. Is that possible? Because this is my first time building, what should I be getting (brands, hubs, etc.)? Thank you for the help. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 18 Dec 2019 09:46 PM PST Hi all. Been lurking for some time. My wife and I are in the framing and rough in stage of a new home. Im not wanting to sink thousands upon thousands into AV at this time, but wanted to see what you thought the 'must dos' are to help future proof us as much as possible and avoid headaches down the road. We will have smart switches (leviton) and likely smart garage door opener, thermostat, alarm system, and at some point id like cameras with an on site storage for footage. Right now I plan to run the latest generation CAT cable throughout the house to every TV location and any corners of the house I think I may want a camera. We will have a couple of chutes for wires to thread from upstairs to downstairs later on. Anything else you'd do or wire for now? Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions! [link] [comments] | ||
| Nest hello video delay in echo show Posted: 18 Dec 2019 08:40 PM PST As the post title says, google nest when being displayed on amazon echo has a 5 second video delay. I have a gigabit connection on a mesh network so network speed can't be the problem. Also the ring i tested has almost no delay. What could be the problem? [link] [comments] | ||
| Trying to set up parents' light switches... Posted: 18 Dec 2019 04:40 PM PST So as a Christmas present, I said I'd help them automate a portion of their home. One area is to automate their kitchen lights. I correctly told them not to just buy smart bulbs because smart switches would be better... But now I'm conflicted on what devices to get exactly. The "gangway(?)" is 3 light switches. 2 of them are on a "3 way circuit" one is a one way switch. I believe the best action is to get Lutron Casetas for the two 3 way switches since it seems to be the best option this subreddit suggested? However I then have no clue on what to get for the one way switch. I also have no idea what hub to get that would be compatible with the Casetas and a third single switch. Looking to get some help from pros. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 18 Dec 2019 07:33 PM PST | ||
| Smart Bulb? Smart Switch? Smart….Lamp? WITH functional, non-interfering switch Posted: 18 Dec 2019 07:32 PM PST
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| Google, Apple and Zigbee moving towards an open smart home standard Posted: 18 Dec 2019 11:43 AM PST
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| Shelly 2.5 has two L terminals Posted: 18 Dec 2019 01:28 PM PST Does anybody know why Shelly 2.5 has two L terminals? According to the product details, it says "Warning: Both relay inputs are interconnected and should be to the same pole." Since the relays are connected together, why would you need two L terminals? Do both of them actually need to be connected? Sounds like an extra wire for no reason? Is this somehow related to the power metering? Product page showing the wiring diagrams etc: https://shelly.cloud/shelly-25-wifi-smart-relay-roller-shutter-home-automation/ [link] [comments] | ||
| LED Bulbs Turning _Off_ at Max Brightness w/Multiple Switches & Bulbs Posted: 18 Dec 2019 05:05 PM PST Hi, I recently moved to a new house and have started automating the lights and migrating to LEDs. (I heavily automated our old house and switched most of the bulbs to LEDs.) I've run into a new problem that's a bit confusing and makes me slightly concerned about our electrical in a non-specific sort of maybe-I-should-call-an-electrician way.* I have two different (completely) different setups at issue on two different circuits. However, they both show the same behavior when I replace the incandescents with LEDs: when set to 100% brightness, the lights are off. As I lower the brightness, somewhere around 90-95% they start flickering. By 80%, they turn on and start to dim as I continue to lower it toward 0. Both use all dimmable LED bulbs, but different switches and bulbs. If I replace any LED bulb on one of the circuits with an incandescent, that circuit starts behaving normally, with all bulbs going full brightness at 100%. Setup 1: I have a GE plug-in zigbee dimmer with two dimmable LED bulbs (Great Eagle 15W) in two different regular lamps. They behave as described. It behaves the same if I only plug one of the lamps into the dimmer. If I do the same thing with an old z-wave dimmer it behaves normally. Plugging directly into the outlet or into my zwave/zigbee non-dimming switches also works fine. Setup 2: I have a Jasco Z-Wave In-Wall Dimmer driving 5 E12 6w LED candelabra bulbs and 2 E26 6w LED frosted flame tip bulbs. It behaves as described. As far as I can tell, everything is within device specs. It's possible the wall and plug dimmers have the same dimming circuitry internally; GE and Jasco are the same and lots of them share the same internals. Many thanks for any assistance, including if there's a different subreddit this should go in! Best, *FWIW, the house's electric was redone not long before we bought it, and we already had 1 near-fire because a circular metal pop-out in a junction box was not fully removed and cut and shorted the inputs to a (non-functioning) doorbell transformer. So I may be a bit on edge there. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 18 Dec 2019 09:32 AM PST There seem to be a few devices out there designed to tie every system together but isn't really what I'm looking for. I have thousands of albums on cd/mps and want to set up a NAS server with music. I have Hue Lights and Caseta switches. 90% of the lights in my house are voice activated via Echos. I have a few smart plugs here and there as well. My goal would be to have a system that is locally based which can respond to voice commands to play music from various locations in the home (4 rooms) and turn the lights on or off. Eventually possibly control the heating system as well. All of this done without reporting to an outside server or paying subscription costs. I am willing to pay for the software that runs this as long as the price is reasonable. (under $500) The ability to set timers, get the weather and trivia question answers is cool but unnecessary. I can keep an Alexa or two for the time being. [link] [comments] | ||
| 5 New Ideas for Using Shelly Devices In Your Smart Home (NOW WITH DIMMING!) Posted: 18 Dec 2019 10:58 AM PST
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| Wireless plug/light & local control Posted: 18 Dec 2019 04:55 PM PST I am looking for a solution that is wireless control but also local control. -We have a ceiling fan with a impossibly dim useless led light built in. Wish we never installed it but had no idea how dim it would be. The fan and light are on single switch and have to use pull chain for the useless light -We also have two old school bedside plug lamps that we use instead but its cumbersome... and still need additional lights. We 'want' to add a couple more lamps to the room and be able to turn all 4 (bed side and two net new additional) lamps on with a three way wall mounted toggle switches & still be able to manual control bedside lamps independently. Bonus points to include the fan light but not necessary. Thumbing through amazon products but lost and cannot find the ability to touch or manual control local and not be a button on the plug at the wall socket. Super big thank you for all suggestions and thoughts! [link] [comments] | ||
| Tips on building a bike hoist with communication security Posted: 18 Dec 2019 08:18 AM PST I'm moving to a new place - for the first in my life, a flat that I will actually own. No leases, no rents, nobody to tell me what I can and can't do with my own home. It has no elevator, but it's on the first floor, so it doesn't bother me - or rather, it wouldn't if it weren't for the need to store my e-bikes in a safe place. I've lived on an elevatorless first floor before and I had no problem bodily lifting the bike and bringing it up and down a flight of stairs potentially several times a day; it builds character. This particular building's staircase is very narrow, though, so there's no way I could do that without smearing road grime from the wheels all over the walls. The fallback fix is to bag up the wheels before bringing the bikes up and down, but I'd like a more elegant solution that doesn't require me to faff about with the bike for a short but annoying length of time every time I need to use it or put it away. The flat has an open balcony on the side of the building; it looks on a tiny inner courtyard that is of no aesthetic relevance yet is accessible from the road. My plan is to affix two arms on the ceiling of the balcony and have an electric hoist drive two metal cables; I'd attach one to the handlebars and one to the seat via hooks, and the hoist would bring the bike up and down from the balcony - no dirtying of walls involved. Then I'd unhook the bike from the hoist and store it in the room with the balcony. Now, I'm confident that I'd be able to build the electric and mechanical part of this contraption; I could also do the electronics, but I'm not sure about the control side. It'd be easy enough to rig up a microcontroller or even just a timer to a relay/contactor that would power the hoist motor for a suitable length of time or until an end-of-line switch is hit; the problem is, how do I set this up so that I can control it from downstairs. Needless to say this needs to be something that I alone can operate, lest someone lower the bike while I'm climbing the stairs before I can unhook it - or lower the cables and climb them to enter my apartment. I thought of an Internet-connected control server using something like a RasPi; it could listen to a Telegram secret chat, and when receiving a specific string - which would be sent as a self-destructing message, so nobody could have a look at the history and know what word to use - start the hoist. However, this feels hacky and probably not too difficult to interfere with. Is there a proven-secure app that I could use to control the hoist from my phone? Bluetooth seems to be right out, since anyone in range could connect and control it. [link] [comments] | ||
| Raspberry Pi into VPN (Video How-To) Posted: 18 Dec 2019 09:41 AM PST
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| Home Automation and Home Security....long post, bear with me please! Posted: 18 Dec 2019 11:43 AM PST I currently have SimpliSafe, just activated it 2 days ago. My home builder has a contract with a company (KMT) that installs Alarm.com stuff. For free I get the following: -Qolsys IQ Smart Panel -2x Honeywell Zwave thermostats -1x Skybell video doorbell -1x kwikset zwave smart lock -1x zwave lightswitch -3 years free smarthome automation through alarm.com For $10 more than what I paid for my SimpliSafe setup, I will get the equivalent setup from KMT, but it's a 3yr contract at $0 down and $40/m, or $200 down and $30/m. My delima is SimpliSafe is cheaper overall, $25/m and if I ever want to add more equipment its MUCH cheaper than KMT/Alarm.com compatible stuff ($15 for a SS entry sensor vs $45 for a KMT/Alarm.com entry sensor) and prices only increase from there for products. HOWEVER, after the 3 free years, its $15/m to keep the home automation...so with SimpliSafe and the home automation I'm STILL at $40/m. I really like the home automation side of it, mostly to be able to use alexa and geofencing settings, and would lose this capability on the connected equipment (lock, switch, 2x thermostats) if I don't pay the $15/m 3-years down the road. Also the sensors with the KMT/Alarm.com are multi use. I can set the sensors to activate lights and such, SS's cannot and are strictly for security. But the price for the compatable equipment (sensors, cameras, etc) is so much higher than SS and even other brands that dont require the hub (Kasa, Phillip's HUE, etc) I can't decide! Help? [link] [comments] | ||
| Yale Assure Lock with August Connect Posted: 18 Dec 2019 03:20 PM PST Hello, Does anybody know how to re-calibrate the deadbolt lock? When I try locking through the app, the lock can't go into the door frame completely, so the lock will continually try locking itself. How can I get it to register the amount of the lock needed to fit in the hole of the door frame? Thank you! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 18 Dec 2019 10:36 AM PST This has been happening on Netflix, Prime Video, Disney+, YouTube, and Hulu. I ask the cube to pause, and it will pause the video, but the moment I ask it to 'resume' or 'play' it will instead open the spotify app and play music. I even deleted the app from the Fire TV and yet this issue still keeps happening. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 18 Dec 2019 10:04 AM PST
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| Posted: 18 Dec 2019 01:45 PM PST Im having a hard time understanding light switches. When are they used?? Is the only use of them is so people can turn the lights on and off without actually taking the power away like a regular switch? I also heard it saves money when you have like a cluster of 5 bulbs on a fixture as well. If it does, I'm asking how because aren't you buying the bulbs regardless? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
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