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    Home Automation I built a website that lets anyone on the internet control my lights and play text to speech messages

    Home Automation I built a website that lets anyone on the internet control my lights and play text to speech messages


    I built a website that lets anyone on the internet control my lights and play text to speech messages

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 04:23 PM PST

    Triggering Alexa Routine from Gmail

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 09:21 AM PST

    Not sure if this is unique, but I'm pretty happy that I finally figured out how to trigger Alexa to run a routine based on an email received in Gmail. Not really anything profound that I've done, just putting pieces together with great tools created by others.

    I'm sharing, partially so I don't forget, but perhaps the solution can help someone else.

    1. Used a script created by u/Godberd that searches for emails with a certain label and triggers a Webhook call. Original post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/GMail/comments/i727l6/ive_made_a_tool_to_filter_gmails_and_trigger_any/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3
    2. In IFTTT, I setup a Applet that based on a Webhook trigger, will send an action to Alexa via "Alexa actions by mkZense". Details here: Alexa Actions by mkZense works better with IFTTT (you can have up to 3 triggers for free, or unlimited triggers for $5/year.)
    3. In the Alexa app, I added IFTTTrigger (by mkZense) as a skill. Once this is done, you'll see the triggers from mkZense as devices in the Alexa app. This essentially acts as a virtual button and you can kick off a routine based on a trigger being "pushed".

    As a use case, I wanted Alexa to announce anytime my driveway gate was opened, or remained open for a while.

    1. Configured iSmartGate to send email alerts to an Gmail email address I created specifically for automation tasks.
    2. I've created a filter that looks for emails from iSmartGate containing the words "gate" and "open". This filter applies a label to the email that matches the trigger I've created, "TriggerMail_GateOpen".
    3. The script from u/Godberd is set to run every minute. If it finds an email with the correct label, it will send a call to the Webhook. (it also removes the label so that it won't re-trigger on the subsequent run)
    4. The Webhook hits the IFTTT Applet and sends the action to Alexa (via the mkZense skill).
    5. This triggers and Alexa routine that announces: "Alert, the driveway gate is open".

    Note: I've now modified the script that u/Godberd created, so that in a single pass it can pick up and process multiple different triggers.

    Perhaps there is an easier way to do what I was trying to accomplish. I welcome any suggestions! Thanks!

    Edit: Found a couple typos.

    Edit2: Something else I learned, if you need/want to rename the triggers that are defined in IFTTTrigger, you can disable the skill in Alexa and then reenable. When you reenable, you have the ability to rename the triggers.

    Edit3: I updated u/Godberd's script, replaced "label.removeFromThreads(threads)" with
    "GmailApp.moveThreadsToTrash(threads)". The original code removed the label to avoid duplicate triggers. The change now deletes the email, which will keep the box clean.

    submitted by /u/Bushwacker2020
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    Security Camera for Apartment

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 03:58 AM PST

    I am looking for a security camera for my apartment. I want to monitor the parking lot where I park. This will need to be inside looking through a window. I need a camera that does not use PIR, but pixel comparison to detect motion. Also the ability to turn of night vision. I would prefer it record locally and be able to record to a cloud service or FTP or other internet storage. Also prefer access through a phone app. Does anyone have any recommendations?

    submitted by /u/fusa42
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    Alexa smart light system that quickly turns bulbs/outlets off/on appropriately when moving from room to room?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 09:28 PM PST

    As I walk around my home, I'd like to have lights react to where I am positioned. If I am in the kitchen, all other rooms that do not have other people in them, should have their lights off. As I step into the dining room from the kitchen, the kitchen lights should quickly turn off and the dining room lights turn on.

    I have a number of Echo Flexes with motion sensors and have toyed around with IFTTT, but have been unable to make my system work. I've noticed that Amazon seems to bake in imposed delays that keep their motion sensors from triggering in short intervals. Additionally I'd like to make sure that the system can interact with multiple people and not leave others in the dark. Does anyone have any insight on this?

    submitted by /u/BryleC
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    Smart millivolt switch: update

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 07:01 PM PST

    Update to my previous post. After trying an iFlame switch, which I could never get to connect to my home WiFi, I put the original switch back in and installed this switch. It connects with Alexa and works well. The wife loves it: "Alexa, turn on the fireplace". Sometimes simple is better!

    submitted by /u/getridofwires
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    Need help with Schlage Connect (BE469) to SmartThings

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 04:40 PM PST

    I am trying to move a Schlage Connect from Wink to SmartThings. I followed these steps:

    • Went into Exclusion mode via SmartThings and successfully removed it from.

    • Did a factory reset of the Schlage Connect.

    • Tried to add it to SmartThings via 'Schlage Touchscreen' (Also tried the other 3 options as well)

    It say it is successful but it just comes in as a generic Z-Wave device that doesn't have any of the functionality and gives me a message about features not supported. It worked fine on Wink and I have tried moving the hub to be literally right next to it when pairing and tried resetting the hub as well.

    Anyone have any ideas? All advice appreciated.

    Here is a screenshot of the message I get and you can see that it lists itself as a 'Z-Wave Device' not a lock.

    https://i.imgur.com/P2yLfd3.png

    submitted by /u/tomtkrtom
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    Advice on how to organize my hubs in a central location.

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 06:36 PM PST

    Moving to new home and want to set up what I have better this time. I now have my hubs all lumped together under my couch since my current home has so few outlets. I want to group them together in a plastic case that I can store perhaps on the ceiling of my basement or somewhere centrally located. I have seen people with plastic cabinets for this sort of stuff before but right now google is only bringing up tiny little project boxes.

    My hubs: Hue WirelessTag Lutron Smartthings and I think 1 or 2 more

    submitted by /u/DumbDumbGoodbye
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    15 amp smart plug on Amazon that can be flashed with tuya-convert?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 09:23 PM PST

    I know some variant of this question gets posted every month or so (eg, see this post).

    Please let me know if anyone has had any successes on a plug that can handle 15 amp. I would like to use the plug with a washer/dryer. I purchased a Gosund WP6 but it wasn't tuya-convert compatible.

    Thanks in advance!

    submitted by /u/vinhdizzo
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    Wink2 Hub Hackable?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 09:20 AM PST

    I was many of the victims of Winks subscription, since I can't give the hub away I'm just wondering is it possible to reuse the hardware for something else? anyway to install Home Assistant on it?

    submitted by /u/munki63
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    Replacing Russound Whole-Home Audio

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 06:00 AM PST

    I moved into a house last year that previously had a Russound system. The only way that I know this is that there are still A-K3 and Uno-S2 keypads in my walls. The system was replaced with a Control 4 system that for the most part works well (all app-based interactions).

    However, not all of the audio zones were added to the Control 4 system (and fuck me, I didn't know this when I bought the house). I originally thought that this was due to an amplifier limitation (8 zones out on the amp). However, now I'm not sure that is the underlying reason. This is weird, but follow me. I'm hoping somebody that has previous experience with the Russound systems will know why my system was installed the way it was.

    The rooms that now work in the Control 4 setup (Dining Room, Master Bedroom, Kitchen, Outdoor Downstairs) all were rooms where there was an Uno-S2 keypad. When I remove the Uno-S2 keypad from the wall, it is only connected to an ethernet cable (via the punchdown connectors). There are three four-conductor audio cables connected in the following way:

    1. Incoming red to one outgoing red
    2. Incoming black to one outgoing black
    3. Incoming green to one outgoing red
    4. Incoming white to one outgoing black

    So for the incoming wire, all four conductors are used. But for the outgoing wires (to the speakers), just the red/black are used. The incoming bundle of wires is coming from my Control 4 amp. I can verify this by removing the banana plugs from the back for each channel. So this is pretty straightforward. I understand - no trouble yet.

    What is confusing, and where I would love input especially from somebody who used to install those systems, is on the zones where there were Rev 2, V1.1 A-K3 keypads (Master Bath, Living Room, Outdoors Upstairs). At each location, I have an ethernet cable and three 4-conductor audio cables. Two of the 4-conductor cables are obviously for speakers (the white and green are cut at the box and a nine-volt battery on them causes popping in the speakers). Bad picture, but it looks like this. I'm stumped on the third audio cable.

    The speaker wires were wired to the "Speaker Out" section of the A-K3. The third audio cable was connected to "Line Out". What would it be likely doing in the "Line Out" section of the A-K3? There are no obvious follow-on amplifiers (especially not for all three rooms). Is it most likely that the Russound system was not the original system (and therefore, there was an additional audio cable?). I'm in the process of trying to map these wires using a cable tracer, but conceptually, I'm still stumped as to the design principles that would have led to this approach.

    Other details that may be relevant:

    1. House was built in 2007. Based on what I can find about the Russound system, I think it likely that it was the original system for the house.
    2. Zones are on the first floor (except for Outdoor Downstairs). The basement is fully finished (before I bought the house), so very limited access to wiring.
    3. Ethernet cables are yellow at the A-K3's, but blue at the audio rack.
    4. Audio cables are (sheathed in) white at all of the keypads, but purple at the audio rack.
    submitted by /u/markyocera
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    House is mostly Insteon, but need a dozen new light switches. Time to switch platforms?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 02:07 PM PST

    My house is 90% Insteon (light switches), 9% z-wave (multi sensors), 1% everything else (Ring, Eufy, off brand stuff.) Indigo (MacOS) does all the automation, with Alexa for voice control (I have separate Insteon and Z-wave hubs for Alexa)

    We put in a new addition, and are going to need a dozen new light switches. (covered patio, exterior lights, etc.)

    I noticed that Insteon switches are about $50 per, Z-wave is about half that ($25), and there are other brands of light switch (TPLink) that are half that ($13/per)

    I get the feeling Insteon is long in the tooth, and I worry about it being orphaned.

    I haven't had great luck with Z-Wave. It appears to be a bit finicky, and I have reset it periodically (inclusion / exclusion) every few months or so (to great dismay), (and I loathe using SmartThings to have it interface with Alexa.)

    Does anyone have experience with TPLink wifi light switches and Indigo?

    Should I stick with Insteon? Or am I correct in thinking it's not going to last as a platform for much longer?

    Any input or suggestions?

    submitted by /u/dee_lio
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    robot recommendation

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 07:48 PM PST

    Hi looking to pick up a robot vacuum and have trouble deciding which one based on my needs.

    Auto-recharge

    Auto-clean

    Quiet

    Docking station (with trash dump)

    Nice to have:

    Physical remote control

    Mop

    submitted by /u/colon19
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    Where are you getting weather data API services?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 07:19 PM PST

    I'm in the U.S., looking for a source for local weather data to put into my InfluxDB/Grafana dashboard so it's easier to trend historical data with historical weather. What sources do you folks use? I'm trying to find something that's free but also isn't likely to pull the rug out in the near future, if such a thing exists (ie darksky).

    Hoping for something anyone can use with a raspberry pi.

    submitted by /u/androidusr
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    Question about using Fire 8 HD as control panel

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 06:27 PM PST

    I am strongly considering adding a few fire 8 hd tablets throughout my house, to help with automations. I'm hoping I can get some help on two questions I have:

    1) as an example, I have Govee lights in my family room. I downloaded the Govee app, setup and connected with Alexa. If I use the Fire 8 HD do I need to be mindful of what companies are in the Amazon App Store or is this connecting through a browser?

    2) Any concerns with having two mirroring tablets running? Can I mirror them or would I have to set them up individually, including layout and customization. Also, could I add another device for my office, which would be excluded from all other tablets.

    Thanks in advance!

    submitted by /u/seocoin
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    New home, automation tips, starting from zero

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 12:05 PM PST

    I am moving in April to a new home and am planning to implement some home automation, and wanted some general feedback & tips.

    I have zero gear at the moment other than a couple old amzn echoes. Based on my research thus far, I am leaning toward using hubitat as a home automation hub. I like the local communication and the flexibility. Even though I am a technical guy, home assistant seems like too much fiddling about. I want to balance reliability and ease of setup. I want to set it and forget it, for the most part, with the largest amount of supported devices. Ultimately, I want my smart home to additive and add to convenience to my day to day routines. I am not looking for a new chore or hobby in my smart home.

    I plan on doing smart thermostat and locks first, then some lights and/or switches, and building some automations around them. Eventually, I want a security system too that has some smart home integrations. With the above in mind, here are my questions.

    1. does that sound like a solid plan?
    2. does hubitat meet the above criteria?
    3. zwave, zigbee, wifi, or all of the above?
    4. do you have additional recommendations?
    5. favorite products? or
    6. what would you do different if you were starting from scratch?

    Thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/spidernin
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    Nest Yale Lock not connecting to Nest Connect

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 05:45 PM PST

    How to get the Nest Yale lock to connect to the Nest app, I am signed in using a Google Account & the connect is right next to the door connected to wifi, the light on the connect is glowing green but when I try to add the lock it gives me the error below, any ideas?? I have gone through all of Googles support documents without success

    https://share.icloud.com/photos/0uXNaBPMYrTXlMBHaFRjE2i2A#Council_Bluffs_-_Manawa

    https://share.icloud.com/photos/0A2t9FSdRyMnfQbx7kK0X2mdQ

    https://share.icloud.com/photos/0-CudIYLIFxtn5D8F4hY0a0ng

    submitted by /u/jl8026
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    Mixing Security brands? - RFI

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 08:59 AM PST

    Hello there!

    I'll be closing on my first home in two weeks and wanted to start off by with getting a few smart security measures for my home. I have been reading a lot lately but it just feels like the more I look into it, the more questions I have... At the moment I have gathered a few options I would be considering (based on price, utility and that they offer) but noticed that they are all from different companies.
    For example:

    • The Nest+Yale Deadlock (Didn't saw any other good option.. really want the remote open/close)
    • Eufy Doorbell ( Price and reviews seemed like the best option for my needs)
    • Wyze V3 (Whenever is available) or Arlo Pro 3 for outdoor cams (Even tho I have seen some negative reviews...)

    My question would be; Is it ok to have all these systems from different brands (Looks like all of them can connect to my google assistant)? Do you recommend sticking with any one brand in particular? any feedback on things to see and what to consider? I'm really new in all of this.

    Thanks in advance!!

    submitted by /u/AeroViz
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    Recommended brand of smart lights?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 04:54 PM PST

    I'm looking for some smart light bulbs for my backyard. I have 3 lights on a wall that are controlled by the same switch. The furthest is about 40' from the router.

    submitted by /u/I_reddit_like_this
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    Remote access cameras for slow dsl?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 09:22 AM PST

    My folks asked me if they could get a camera set up for their house. They have I think 6x1 meg dsl and that is the best they can get and cable isn't in the area.

    They tried a ring doorbell but it absolutely crushed their connection. Apparently when it was connected it would slow the internet way down but once it was removed it was fine.

    They would like to remote view but I feel like "cloud" isn't going to happen. Is there a local storage option with remote access that is good and easy to maintain?

    If there were a turnkey blue iris system, that would be great but I think they just want a ring style doorbell camera that is local storage with an app to access.

    For them the easier the system is to maintain and use, the better. They are not technology people at all and I don't want to manage or install a whole dvr system. If they could upgrade the dsl this wouldn't be a problem but they are in the sticks on crap service.

    submitted by /u/SlimeQSlimeball
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    Smart lock for front door with RFID?

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 11:04 AM PST

    I was looking at smart locks which would allow me to enter with contactless card/keyfob, AND have smart features like access logging, notifications, etc. And it seems that there are NO locks that do both. It's either "smart", or RFID, but not both.

    For example, Samsung locks look good and support contactless key fobs, but they are not "smart" at all. And majority of smart locks (Schlage, Yale, etc) don't support key fobs. I don't want to enter pins or do anything on my smartphone. The goal is to have it like with my car: it senses that I have a key fob and it automatically unlocks it. Am I missing something? Or the technology is not there yet?

    submitted by /u/okuli
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    Ceiling Fan with Light Kit Receiver

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 02:32 PM PST

    I have an old house with several ceiling fans. All of the fans are wired the dumb way: just an on/off switch in the wall (no separate wiring for the fan and the light). Several years ago, I bought some cheap remote controls that have a receiver in the canopy of the fan (at the ceiling mount) and a radio transmitter which hangs on the wall. The transmitter has separate controls for the fan speed and a dimmer for the light.

    Is there anything similar but more modern? Zigbee or Zwave would be best. WiFi would be OK, though I'm not thrilled with the need for a cloud service and don't really want Google Assistant integration. I really just want the canopy/ceiling receiver. I'm OK with no wall-mounted control at all.

    submitted by /u/azemona
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    How to Connect a LIDL Smart Plug (SilverCrest) to a Philips Hue Bridge

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 02:12 PM PST

    Need options for Lutron Caseta w/ LED coach lights

    Posted: 31 Dec 2020 10:13 AM PST

    I recently purchased some of the 'flame' type led light bulbs for our coach lights. I previously had some LED bulbs that had light sensors on them and turned themselves off/on as needed. Now that I have replaced those bulbs, I need a way to automatically turn the lights on at/around dusk and off at dawn. I purchased a Lutron Caseta on/off switch, but it requires a neutral, which I don't have. I exchanged it for the Caseta dimmer switch since it doesn't require a neutral. On the bulb, I only get a slight flicker and on the dimmer switch, the light travels up the row from bottom to top, then starts at the bottom again and does this over and over. I've tried adjusting the low end trim, but haven't tried adjusting the high end trim yet. If anyone knows of a flame-type bulb that works with Caseta, I would be willing to try that as well, but I'm assuming I will need to find an alternate switch. I don't have easy access to the junction box for the lights, so the MLC may be an option, but it's low on the list, right above hire an electrician to run a neutral at the bottom. I saw a reference somewhere to something(assuming a capacitor of some sort) that basically installed between the bulb and the socket that was supposed to help with this issue, but now I can't find it. I've also considered going so far as just getting a "button pusher" that can be programmed to turn the coach lights on at dusk and off at dawn. These are not lights that I want to turn on and off at random, I really just want to be able to have them turn on around dusk and off at sunrise. Any suggestions or help resolving this would be greatly appreciated.

    submitted by /u/pmwpl239
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