Home Automation New house is wired for a security system. These motion sensors are littered around the house. Anyway to repurpose these things or just cut em out and toss em? |
- New house is wired for a security system. These motion sensors are littered around the house. Anyway to repurpose these things or just cut em out and toss em?
- Question re Nest vs Ring
- Are smart locks more secure than traditional locks? I tested Wyze, Kwikset, Yale, and Alfred locks to assess their functionality and security.
- Controlling power/on LG Flattron w2442pa monitor
- I finally pulled plug on GE Smart dimmer ZWave plus switches, I had ordered two switches before and worked flawlessly with Hubitat smart home bridge with google assistant integration. There was deal on byjasco for $35 a piece with free shipping.
- SmartThings servers down?
- Question regarding the names the devices connected to the plug/switch.(details within).
- Flood detector that is not battery operated, and is less then $120?
- Under cabinet lighting solution using hue, wemo, google home ecosystem?
- Using a PowerLinc II in place of a CM11A
- Should I upgrade/update SmartThings?
- Trying to find a cam for my home that doesn't hobble data.
- Intercom Upgrade
- Stored Positions w Bali Layered Shade (or any Bali Rollers likely)
- Switch recommendation besides Caseta?
- Smart reverse phase dimmers?
- Which SmartThings Hub to get?
- MyQ
- If you were building a $2-3M home to sell, what home automations would you use?
- Wemo connection problems?
- I have IHome Isp5 outlets I have 2 users trying to use same account but when second user tries to log in nothing shows up as installed and it asks me to set up new device does each user have to do this when using the same account?
- Lake house, only HughsNet
- eero mesh WiFi gets HomeKit router support
- Raw data power meter
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 06:49 PM PST Heres a pic of one of maybe 12 around the house. https://i.imgur.com/344ZL6y.jpg Cant find a purpose for them unless you guys have any ideas. They're pretty ugly being there and serving no current purpose so thought I'd ask before taking them all down. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 09:24 PM PST Hi everyone, Not sure if this should rather be in /r/homedefense but this seems like it might be a good place? Please let me know if not... I have an (old, dodgy) spotlight wired to the front of my house. Similar one wired to the back. I have been thinking it would be good to get some cameras in - I was thinking through a few options, and was hoping for some advice: 1) Ring cam "floodlight" at the front, Ring cam "spotlight" at the back. Reuse existing wires (assuming this is a standard kind of voltage). This gets me new floodlights and never have to worry about changing batteries in the cameras. Only downside is I'm a google fanboy, but Nest doesn't offer a floodlight version of their cam. 2) Get generic floodlights to replace the old ones, reusing the same wiring. Get two nest ourdoor cams and mount them myself, running to nearby power conduits. Is there an obvious thing I've missed here? ie, does the ring floodlight work better with recording video since it can control the lighting itself? It probably really doesn't matter about me being more pro google as either way, I'd have to buy a subscription to either of their services... being able to turn it on or off via google home would be a nice gimmick, but I'd rather have the best solution than a gimmick. Thanks very much! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 04:13 AM PST
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| Controlling power/on LG Flattron w2442pa monitor Posted: 26 Feb 2020 05:04 PM PST Hey folks I had some old parts lying around, and I've been kind of decluttering so I decided to get rid of the bulkier TV that was mostly collecting dust in the spare room and replace it with a rpi and an HDMI monitor-with-speakers. My problem is, I'd rather not leave the monitor on, but even using a smart switch to turn on power to the pi and the monitor, it still stays off. Kind of defeats the purpose and convenience if to use it you have to get up and push the button to turn on the monitor and then get up and push the button to turn it off. I don't like the idea of leaving it on but blanked for the amount of time it will almost always be idle. I don't expect there's a real solution here, but I thought I'd throw it out there and see if anybody knew any creative solutions. Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 04:48 PM PST
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| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 08:06 PM PST I cannot control any of my devices through SmartThings. All of my other devices on network are functioning properly. I've reset everything with no luck. Anyone else having problems? [link] [comments] | ||
| Question regarding the names the devices connected to the plug/switch.(details within). Posted: 26 Feb 2020 06:53 PM PST So, I hope this makes sense. I have three smart plugs that I have linked to my Alexa and Google Asst. Each of the plugs controls a light in a different bedroom. My question is, to I have to name each plug a different name as so when I my echo/google to turn it on, it knows which one? Hope that makes sense. My kids want to say to their respective device, Hey Google, turn on bedroom light(meaning theirs). Thank you. [link] [comments] | ||
| Flood detector that is not battery operated, and is less then $120? Posted: 26 Feb 2020 01:28 PM PST I want to add flood detection to my server room at home, and I can add a flood detection module to my Vertiv environmental probe for $120. This is expensive, however it "just works" and is all powered by the probe, which is powered via PoE from my switch and therefore is on UPS power All of the Z-Wave flood sensors I can find are much cheaper than $120, but they all take batteries. I want one that is powered from the wall or PoE Any ideas? Doesn't have to be Z-Wave I suppose, could be Zigbee or whatever. I have a Hubitat hub for that sort of thing [link] [comments] | ||
| Under cabinet lighting solution using hue, wemo, google home ecosystem? Posted: 26 Feb 2020 01:23 PM PST My kitchen has recessed lighting which leaves dark areas under the cabinets along the countertops. I am thinking of easy to install solutions to get around this. I switched out my kitchen light switch with a wemo dimmable wifi switch. This works great with my google home ecosystem. On a separate floor, I have some phillips hue bulbs set up with a hub. Given those three brands, is there any easy to integrate solution? I assume that voice control would work easily if I install Phillips Hue strips and assign them to Kitchen as well. I think ideally I would like the under cabinet lights to come on when the switch physically is hit. Is it possible to do this over WiFi? [link] [comments] | ||
| Using a PowerLinc II in place of a CM11A Posted: 26 Feb 2020 08:41 PM PST I'm probably one of the few still using X10; I've acquired a lot from friends that have moved on, and it fits my needs relatively well. I've been using heyu with Home Assistant, and everything was going well until my CM11A stopped responding; seems to be dead. The PowerLinc II 1132B has RS-232 support, but I can't tell if it's the same command set as the CM11A. I'll have to make a cable to try, but I thought I'd check to see if anyone here has used a PowerLinc II in place of the CM11A first. Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Should I upgrade/update SmartThings? Posted: 26 Feb 2020 04:12 PM PST I bought the original SmartThings back in 2015, and mostly left it alone with just a handful of bulbs, contact sensors, and switches connected to it. Recently I've started adding new devices again, and I see there's now a v2 and v3. The version 1 is still working fine. Should I switch over to V2 or V3?
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| Trying to find a cam for my home that doesn't hobble data. Posted: 26 Feb 2020 04:06 PM PST I know nothing about wyze, yi, or any of the others. I'm worried I'll get something that uses my 1TB cap each month. What should I be looking for to not have this happen? My use will be to know if someone enters the area, with consideration that I got a cat. I don't want a ton of recordings/pictures/notifications of my cat. I had thought to use it to peek at my cat while at work but I imagine that will use a lot of data so I would be fine even with it letting me know someone entered the area and saving to an SD card. I can probably angle it to not catch my cat in view. Any suggestions? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 03:59 PM PST I'm trying to upgrade my garage with a simple intercom system to my house. Are there any inexpensive options out there? I don't need any thing with a video. Just enough to communicate with my wife if we ever need anything. Something that operates similar to a walkie-talkie and runs on AC power, not batteries. [link] [comments] | ||
| Stored Positions w Bali Layered Shade (or any Bali Rollers likely) Posted: 26 Feb 2020 06:58 PM PST I'm pulling the trigger, likely tomorrow) on several Bali rollers. At the last minute I'm considering swapping one of my sliding glass door coverings to a layered shade (was looking at solar shades). My only concern is that since the exact position impacts whether half the shade is sheer, or it's all covered, I want to make sure of two things: 1) When I tell Google/SmartThings to close the living room shades, I want it to close all the way, stopping in a position that none of the sheer is visible, it will be totally closed off. 2) If I want to adjust how much sheer is exposed, I need to make really small adjustments to how open/closed the shade is - this should be in some way simple to do (ideally via voice, in calling some stored position, but I'd be okay if I could easily "tap" in SmartThings or any other app). I suspect that while this need is a bit more important when looking at layered shades, the control of the mechanism is the same whether layered, solar, blackout, etc. TL;DR - With Bali rollers, can I ensure that a stored position ("closed" for example) is exactly the same, the location I desire, each time? [link] [comments] | ||
| Switch recommendation besides Caseta? Posted: 26 Feb 2020 06:41 PM PST I went to Home Depot for another project and found myself in the light switch aisle. Pressed on the Caseta buttons on a few switches and they feel horrible. Not very robust. I know their wireless is awesome and stable, but dam, I don't see them lasting more than a year or 2 in my house. (Yes my family is rough on things) [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 02:40 PM PST Hi all, Does anyone know of any good smart reverse phase dimmers? Aside from the Caseta ELV ones? Those are insanely expensive and I prefer a proper toggle. I was planning on getting Legrand Radiant tru-universal line, and still might, but they aren't z-wave and there is no home assistant support for them, leaving me with google home only. I can live with that if I just, but I'd love to have some options. Z-wave preferable, wifi is okay, reverse phasing dimming, with a proper toggle/paddle for manual operation. The other option is replacing all my LEDs, but that seems like more cost and effort and reverse phase dimming is superior dimming technology anyways. Thanks! EDIT: most lights are Satco S29837 bulbs [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 02:30 PM PST I'm purchasing a Yale Assure SL Z-wave lock, this will be my first Z-wave device in my house, so I'm obviously in need of a SmartThings hub as well. I'm curious which one I should get though, because their seem to be like 6 different versions when I search on Amazon. Differnece between v2 and v3, and what is the difference between just the v3, or the "SmartThings Smart Home Hub" that costs $40-50 more? I've currently got RadioRA2 lighting because I'm an electrician and installer, and hoping to do a good amount of integration. Adding in door sensors, MyQ door openers, and such later on, and adding Google Nest Wifi for voice control. Is all of that doable with what I'm looking at? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 10:36 AM PST I have a Liftmaster garage door opener and just installed MyQ sensors. App is giving me extremely delayed notification (2 or more hours), while I'm away from home. What could be causing this? [link] [comments] | ||
| If you were building a $2-3M home to sell, what home automations would you use? Posted: 26 Feb 2020 08:12 AM PST Have previously used with Honeywell, Nest, Lutron, Control4... Trying to gauge the current landscape of quality plus name recognition to appeal to buyers. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 11:30 AM PST I've been having trouble with my Wemo devices the last couple weeks. Alexa will often be unable to connect to them, or say she can't connect to them but the light turns on anyway. The app (which has always been spotty) will often only show a couple of switches online instead of my whole home. These are problems I've always had with them, but usually it'd be one switch here and there and there'd be weeks between issues. Lately it seems that, more often than not, I have to get up and flip the switch myself. Is this a known problem anywhere? Are my switches just getting old and in need of replacement? Is Wemo a particularly unreliable brand? (I didn't do a ton of research when I first jumped into this, which was a mistake). Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 05:25 AM PST | ||
| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 10:58 AM PST Hi all - I posted a couple months ago about connecting my soon to be built lake house. As it stands today, the only internet option is HughsNet 25mbs. Does anyone have experience with HughsNet that they can share? Does anyone have any ideas on how to get a faster connection. In a perfect world, my whole house and property would have internet connectivity for things like Sonos, Apple TV, Alexa devices, etc. TIA [link] [comments] | ||
| eero mesh WiFi gets HomeKit router support Posted: 26 Feb 2020 10:32 AM PST
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| Posted: 26 Feb 2020 10:01 AM PST Hey Reddit! I was wondering, is there a power meter that can be connected to your home's electricity intake (via clamp or hardwire) that sends you the raw data for further processing? Not just to a standalone device. Thinking of building an application myself. Thank you! [link] [comments] |
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