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    Wednesday, August 26, 2020

    Home Automation Just bought a new house, I have my automation planned out from the ground up. Thoughts?

    Home Automation Just bought a new house, I have my automation planned out from the ground up. Thoughts?


    Just bought a new house, I have my automation planned out from the ground up. Thoughts?

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 03:57 PM PDT

    Foundation:

    Voice assistant - Google. Reason - Monetary. I already most of the devices needed to accomplish this. And it's the ecosystem I'm already used too.

    Hubs - Smart Things, Lutron, Hue. Reason - Ease of use. I know this sub seems to have a bias against ST, but from the videos I've seen, this seems to be the easiest and cleanest route for me to take. Lutron has quality behind them, and I already own the Hue.

    Connectivity - Wifi. Reason - Ease of use. And most of my preferred devices seem to need wifi. Plus I have 1Gb fiber with a triband router so I can throw all smart devises on a band by themselves so that congestion won't be an issue.

    Devices:

    Lock (x4) - Next x Yale; Reason - Looks. There's really one functionality I will really miss and that's geolocation un/locking. But I absolutely cannot stomach the other locks. The giant metal circle of the August makes me want to vomit. And the Schlange is just flat ugly. Really all the alternatives suck in my opinion.
    Backup: None. I truly hate the alternatives.

    Doorbell (x2) - Nest Hello; Reason - Functionality. I don't plan to get cameras and the continuous recording will provide ample coverage for what I want. The video quality, while not #1 tier, is still top tier and better than the Ring. Plus I've dipped my toes into the Nest ecosystem with the lock so it makes sense.
    Backup: Eufy. I really would prefer the Eufy's local storage and very slightly better quality. But with fiber I don't presume the Hello's cloud storage will be an issue.

    Thermastat (x1) - Ecobee; Reason - Functionality. This was a very hard decision. I really, really wanted to go with the Nest as I'm already caught in the ecosystem and I just love the looks over the Ecobee. But there are too many horror stories. And the Ecobee offers way better data and integration.
    Backup: Nest. If I won't get the Ecobee, I will deal with the Nest. Looks matter damnit.

    Switches (x30) - Lutron Caseta; Reason - Functionality. Plus I don't have a neutral wire in my lights, so it's one of my only choices.
    Backup: C by Ge. It's super hard to find reliable non-neutral wire needing switches that won't break the bank. C by Ge seems to be a decent competitor to Lutron. But the overall consensus seems to be: go Lutron.

    Smartshades (x2) - Serena Smart Shades; Reason - Form and Functionality. Well, I'm already well and deep into Lutron. And since I only need two, the price isn't too drastic. The rest of my home can manage with 'dumb' shades.
    Backup: None really. If I don't get the Serena, I'll just use dumb shades.

    Bulbs / LED Strips - Mixture of Hue for color / Normal bulbs for everything else; Reason - Monetary. I already own like 10 Hue bulbs from my apartment. The only thing I have to buy extra will be the strips. And honestly if I'm so far into this ecosystem already, the strips aren't going to break me. I favor going in on one ecosystem, rather than Frankensteining things together. I only plan to have the bulbs in a few select places I want color with normal bulbs being used everywhere else. The Lutron switches are there to take care of the difference and make everything work together.

    submitted by /u/MrNameless
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    Magnetic Covers for Dimmer Sliders?

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 11:23 PM PDT

    So I bought some magnetic covers for the toggle switches in my home and they work great.

    However most of my main lights are on dimmer sliders and the magnetic covers that I have been finding do not have enough clearance to cover the dimmer sliders.

    Does anyone know of a product out there that has clearances to cover dimmer sliders?

    Alternatively any cheap but effective methods to lock sliders in the "on" position is totally welcome.

    Usually I'd just switch out the dimmer sliders but my house literally has (10) of them and every main light is on a dimmer slider. So would much rather spend $30 on covers than a bunch of time and money on new toggle switches.

    Thanks so much!

    submitted by /u/eaglerulez
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    Alexa, give me a beer

    Posted: 24 Aug 2020 11:58 PM PDT

    Alexa, give me a beer

    When "Stay at Home" has you thinking of completely unnecessary projects.

    I've had this soda machine for about 10 years, and it's served the family well. But, I figured it was time for an upgrade.

    The Cliffs Notes version is that I added 3 Zooz ZEN16 relays, which gave me control of all 8 selections from my Hubitat. Now, this happens.

    The key to getting all this working was changing my soda machine's settings to free-vend mode. My particular Royal Vendors Merlin soda machine let me set the price for each selection to 0.00. This made automating a button press all that was necessary to initiate the vending cycle. An issue with trying to control any other devices in the machine is that they are all interconnected. For example, the vending motor turns off after the vibration sensor receives a hit as a beverage is dispensed. So free-vend mode was the clean way to go, as I didn't have to account for any other components.

    For the Merlin model, each button passes a 5vDC current to the control board, which initiates the vending cycle. The board sees any voltage as a trigger, not just 5vdc. So, some of my initial efforts failed. Then, I tried the Zooz ZEN16 Multi-Relay (based on a recommendation from the Hubitat community) and quickly realized I should have started with that. With three relays on each unit, I did some hard math, and concluded I'd need three of them to control my eight selection buttons.

    By the same hard math, I realized one of my relays would have an extra slot available. So, the winner of the unused relay was the compressor by way of the thermostat. In keeping the thermostat circuit open, the compressor stays off, and I can control energy usage during my electrical demand rate extortion period (whoops, did I say that out loud?). I currently have the machine on a Z-wave outlet but I'm not a fan of daily power cycling. Doing it this way instead, I can still use the machine all day.

    The ZEN16 was easy to install once I fully understood the unit. And I wish to give a shout-out to Agnes at Zooz for the relay 101 course. Once she explained how to hook everything up, it was very simple. The bottom line is the switch inputs take no voltage. If utilized, however, they trigger the relay depending on how you have the switch/button defined in Hubitat. For my application, I set them to garage door mode, which is essentially a two-second button press. Of course Hubitat can control the relays independent of the button inputs as well.

    The ZEN16 closes the nominal 5vDC circuit for the buttons flawlessly, while concurrently handling a high amperage AC circuit for the compressor. Hats off to Zooz for this little bad boy, the ZEN16 isn't simply a device, it's a multipurpose tool. I think my adjustable bed that I lost the remote for years ago is next….

    After the relays were sorted out, I figured the machine's signage lighting was next. The door light on has always bugged me as it lit up the whole backyard at night. I initially wanted to use my extra 9th relay for the fluorescent lights in the door, but I ripped all that out and put in high-density 5000k LED strips, driven by an RGBgenie single-channel Z-Wave controller. I can now dim the door's display light. I am sure the neighbors behind me will appreciate it.

    I also added an RGBgenie Z-Wave remote to control the lighting. With its magnetic backing it will live on the Soda Machine. I added the thermostat [compressor] circuit and the outlet to the remote as well. That left me with 8 buttons left over. And you guessed it, someday I want this to happen. But in all seriousness, the response from the remote through Hubitat is ridiculous. It's just as fast as pressing the button on the machine.

    Another thing I did was put the Kiltlifter (a local Tempe beer I like) on my geo-location so when I am away from home, it is disabled. Sorry (adult) kids, you can't have dad's beer.

    I'm actually thinking of getting a 4th ZEN16 and hooking the vibration sensor to it. If it doesn't sense a drop within X amount of seconds of any relay being triggered then Hubitat would know a selection is empty. All kinds of possibilities here and humorous ideas are welcome.

    If someone has (or wants to get) a Royal Vendors machine for this project, here are some of the stumbling blocks I ran into.

    • The spade connectors for the buttons are the .187" design, and not the standard .250" you find at Home Depot. Don't waste your time trying to get these to work. My local Ace Hardware has rows of oddball items, and this is where I found the correct connectors.
    • You will need to change the switch mode in Hubitat to do any programming on the Merlin. The machine uses the selection buttons to program pricing, soda depth, etc. With the relays installed and set to garage door mode, using the buttons to program the soda machine blew past some parameters. So you will need to change this in Hubitat, or temporarily disconnect the relays, if you configure anything on the machine.
    • Solder dip the wires before securing them to devices.
    • Make sure your control board matches your model. Mine didn't, and I spent hours trying to find menu settings that didn't exist. Parts' swapping is common for these older units.
    • Put product labels in the dispensing buttons before you wire everything up. I didn't, and am not looking forward to undoing it all just for the labels.
    • While you are in the unit rip out the fluorescent lighting. These old ballasts throw off a ton of RF. So much, they have been known to fry the control boards. It takes less than 5 minutes and is well worth it. Get a good, high-density 5000k or 5500k white LED strip for the door lighting. Because the door is CMYK printed Plexiglas, you don't want any white light color shift. A warm white will give you yellow ice cubes in the image, yuck.
    • Regarding Alexa, I found that when I set my Alexa routine to be polite, she wants to add that beverage item to my shopping list. So if I say "Alexa, may I please have a Pabst Blue Ribbon" half the time she gives me a beer and the other half insists on adding it to my lists. Ironically if I am rude, I am batting a 1000. "Alexa, give me a Coors" works every time. Huh? Oh heck no, if my Mother heard me talk like that…..

    Parts List

    • 1x Hubitat
    • 3x Zooz ZEN16 Relays – Z-Wave Plus
    • 1x RGBgenie single-channel 8 amp LED controller – Z-Wave Plus
    • 1x RGBgenie Z-Wave remote control - Z-Wave Plus
    • 2x 10 foot high density 5000k white strips.
    • 1x 3-way barrel connector splitter for the relay's power
    • 1x 20 amp power supply with three outputs. (had on hand)
    • Various connectors and 16 gauge wire for the selection switches and selection relays.
    • 1x crimping tool which I should have bought years ago. ($10 at Harbor Freight).
    • Outdoor rated double-sided tape for mounting the relays, power supply, and LED controller. I didn't want them just lying in the bottom of the door cabinet in case of water intrusion as the unit is outside.
    submitted by /u/Gnant
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    [Official] Aqara asks North American users' preferences to launch more new products including Smart Door Lock with beta test participation given away as a reward (randomly).

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 09:26 PM PDT

    Smart ceiling fans (Australia)

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 07:14 PM PDT

    Has anyone had experience with smart ceiling fans, particularly in Australia, or a country that uses 240v?

    So far, the only two that I've found are:

    • Brilliant Smart Bahama Fans - use an ESP8266 chipset I believe so should be compatible with Tuya - these are cheap at around $300AUD

    • BigAss Fans Haiku - US made, and very expensive at around $1400 AUD, which when you want to buy three gets pretty expensive very fast

    Any others?

    submitted by /u/iamcamiam
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    Lutron Caseta - Lamp Bulbs 100 watt equivalent

    Posted: 26 Aug 2020 12:36 AM PDT

    Can somebody recommend an a19 led dimmanble 100 watt equivalent bulb that works well with Lutron Caseta plugs ??

    I've tried a couple and haven't been successful landing on anything that is 100 watt equivalent without buzzing or flickering.

    submitted by /u/mike3y
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    RoboVacuum Recommendation (Roborock v. Deebot)

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 12:59 PM PDT

    Hey all, I am upgrading my robot vacuum from a Neato D3 to one that can tackle vacuuming and mopping. I feel pretty narrowed down to the Roborock S5 Max and the Deebot Ozmo 950. Any recommendation for the two?

    I can get the Roborock $389 vs. the Deebot for $500. I am willing to pay up for the Deebot if its worth that $100 price difference.

    submitted by /u/DoctorPilotSpy
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    Hi all, I've just automated my house gates, they can now be opened/closed via a fob.

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 01:54 PM PDT

    I'm awaiting delivery of a WiFi Doorbell/camera/intercom which will be visible on a phone. I'd like to be able to open the gates via the same phone. Can anyone recommend a low voltage WiFi switch that can be operated from a phone apk? Even better if it had 2 channels. It only needs to be operable over the WiFi network. Thanks in advance

    submitted by /u/thepeck
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    Any smart locks that actually unlock via BT proximity like a keyless entry car, not wifi geofence?

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 08:16 AM PDT

    I am finding it really hard to filter out the nonsense of wifi connected home door locks that rely on a mobile app geofencing and find any that actually work by Bluetooth proximity. Maybe these don't exist yet ? Are there any?

    To clarify what I mean - The locks I've seen so far join your wifi network and require either a mobile application to be running in the foreground on your device (e.g. take it out of your pocket, launch the app, wait for a connection, hit the button) or they use background services geofencing to try to detect (very imprecisely and slowly) when you are home or away and lock/unlock accordingly. Whereas other devices (like a Tesla automobile for example) employ an app that relies on background services of the OS to advertise or listen for a BTLE signal continuously and wake the app to authenticate.

    submitted by /u/patniemeyer
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    Leviton z-wave fan controller doesn't seem to exist?

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 08:53 AM PDT

    I am trying to standardize my house on Leviton (Zwave) and need a fan controller. A few sites list it

    https://products.z-wavealliance.org/products/3832?selectedFrequencyId=2

    https://www.leviton.com/en/products/zw4sf-1bz

    But for the life of my I cannot find *anywhere* to buy this - everything just redirects me to the WIFI version. Anybody know if this thing actually exists or have an alternative to recommend?

    submitted by /u/ccitykid
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    advice on wifi-to-wifi router that transmit received signal both wired and wirelessly

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 05:54 PM PDT

    This is a bit of a tricky situation I find myself in, and advice would be highly appreciated.

    I just moved into a new building that has a centralized wifi connection (I sign my devices up through buildingname.xfinity.com), and no in-apartment ethernet ports or routers. I have a few connected devices (chromecast, wifi speakers, wireless printer, wifi scale) that I need to sign up on the portal, on top - I have a hue bridge that only connects through an ethernet cable.

    Two issues I'm trying solve:

    1) connecting the hue bridge to the wireless network: my understanding is that I get a device like the TPlink nano travel router, I can put it in "client mode" and log it into the central wifi as a smart device.

    2) I am suspecting that this central wifi solution is going to be sketchy with all my connected devices, so I was thinking about getting a wifi-to-wifi router that will allow me log into the central wifi with only one device, and set up my own wireless network dispersed from that router. My understanding is that the TPlink nano can also do that (the apt. is very small so I'm not concerned about signal strength). The problem is, that to my understanding the device can only be in one mode at a time, and would not be able to receive the central wifi signal and transmit it both to the ethernet hue hub and wirelessly to all other devices.

    As my budget unfortunately is only around 50usd, my current solution is to buy two of those travel routers and use one for the hue, and the other to create a private network. However, I'm sure there is a more elegant and efficient method that is probably even less costly. Any advice on how to do this? Thanks!

    submitted by /u/alicepk
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    Getting started with home automation: DIY sunroom roller blinds. Which controller board to use?

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 10:21 AM PDT

    I've spent days now reading about all the options for home automation, and I'm almost more lost now than when I started. I want to be able to control some roller blinds with my phone, so it seems like a simple setup, but it seems like there are endless options for devices and setup. If someone with more experience can point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it!

    I'll be building my own roller blinds, using (as the plan stands now) a worm drive DC motor controlled by relays and limit switches. I've bought some shadecloth fabric, and I'm planning to use aluminium pipes on bearings as the rollers. As far as the mechanical setup, I think I'm ok.

    For the automation aspect, I am hoping that there is some kind of controller board that will fit my needs:

    • use my phone to instruct blinds to roll up or down (I don't foresee ever needing them partially open);
    • connect via wifi;
    • drive motor relays, likely at 24V;
    • not require reconfiguration after a power failure;
    • draw minimum power while inactive;
    • possibly in the future, automate the blinds to lower above a given temperature when the sun is at particular angles.

    What is the simplest board that can do all the above? Can I have a routine on my phone that can accomplish the last point, without setting up a dedicated home automation hub? I know I can throw a bunch of money at this and get everything working, but I'm trying to get it done as simply and cost-effectively as possible. Can I use something like an ESP32 with a battery backup?

    Thanks for any suggestions!

    submitted by /u/0bron
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    Is there a cheaper alternative to the Bosch Concealed Light Switch ?

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 09:51 AM PDT

    Hey Guys,

    im trying to Retrofit my Lightswitches (Busch-Jäger SI) and I found these on amazon:

    https://www.amazon.de/Bosch-Unterputz-Lichtschalter-Deutschland-%C3%96sterreich/dp/B075QKYDVZ

    https://www.amazon.de/Bosch-Unterputz-Adapter-Busch-J%C3%A4ger-Schalter/dp/B076J34B8X/ref=pd_sbs_60_3/257-3650921-0226157?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B076J34B8X&pd_rd_r=03651f21-b0dd-438b-8750-91e6f61cfcda&pd_rd_w=pyDjm&pd_rd_wg=O6qsz&pf_rd_p=d5022659-416a-420a-bccc-de3cf1d7297a&pf_rd_r=T7PK2T0QG6AT7D87H464&psc=1&refRID=T7PK2T0QG6AT7D87H464

    (the second link is only the adapter)

    but they cost 60€ a piece which would make it quite expensive. Now im wondering if you know any alternatives to this combination?

    In addition, does anyone know if there is an Outdoor Motion Sensor with Zigbee ? I only know the Philips Hue one which works but its also kinda expensive

    submitted by /u/hazenjaqdx3
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    dusk to dawn vs smart lights

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 03:00 PM PDT

    So this is probably a very simple question. For front porch and side garage, is there any reason to do a smart lights vs a dusk to dawn light? I don't see much comparing the two directly, but off the top of what I can see is that the smart lights seem like overkill for just turning on and off at night, but I'm not sure. Anyone know the energy efficiency of one vs the other?

    submitted by /u/burritolover15
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    Help needed: Cannot get HA automation to work

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 01:50 PM PDT

    Help needed: Cannot get HA automation to work

    I want to close my garage door if it has been in an 'open' state for more than X number of minutes. So I set up my HA with the following configuration, but I am not getting the intended result. Even after exceeding the X number of minutes, the garage door stays open. Can anyone point out what I might be doing wrong? See attached screenshot of a snipped of the automation yml file.

    I have confirmed that the action listed in the file - "scene.close_garage_doors" work fine on its own. I have also verified that the state for my garage says "open" and "close".

    https://preview.redd.it/dfolvvn0o7j51.png?width=1350&format=png&auto=webp&s=ef36e3b09f6229527476375d76283b4e1742a416

    submitted by /u/nomo-fomo
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    Google assistant says she can't understand me but proceeds to do what I asked her to do???

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 12:14 PM PDT

    So I moved out 2 months ago and I thought it would be fun to get myself a citation one so I did and I have had no issues with it until now. Simple tasks like asking her to start spotify she will respond with "Starting spotify...Sorry I didn't understand." But she starts spotify, she plays the songs. But she does the same with setting alarms etc. "Setting alarm for 5 am. Sorry I didn't understand." I've tried resetting her, my phone and the internet router to make her come back to normal because it is really infuriating hearing her say "Sorry, I didn't understand." So what should I do? Never owned anything like this before.

    submitted by /u/Raccoonfraction
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    Xiaomi Mi Robot Vacuum Mop Pro /styj02ym Connecting to network timed out/wont connect to Wi-Fi (3rd step of setup)

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 11:47 AM PDT

    Today I bought my Xiaomi Vacuum. The issue that i'm having is that the Vacuum does not connect to Wi-Fi. The error says: "Connecting to network timed out".

    That is the 3rd. Step on the 1st setup. The first two steps ran fine. The vacuum connects to my phone, sends the message.. but thats is it.

    I'm using a 2,4 Ghz WPA2 connection. I'm using the Xiaomi Home app (latest version) and the latest firmware for my Xiaomi Note 8 PRO (Miui 11.0.3, Android 10)

    I have tried two different phones, (Xiaomi Note 8 PRO & LeEco Le 2) but I the same issue occurred.

    I tried resetting my router and both of my phones, but that didn't work.

    I also tried changing my region to different other countries, but that did not help as well.

    I unfortunately ran out of ideas. What should I do?

    submitted by /u/ILikeBobbyLashley
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    Rain Bird ESP ME Vs Rachio 3

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 08:00 AM PDT

    Through my builder we added on "irrigation system" and I have just found out that means we will be getting a rain bird esp me controller. I talked to the irrigation company and they said if I have a Rachio 3 ready for them the day of install they will set up the rachio 3. Is the rachio 3 that much better to pay for that controller as well to replace the controller I technically have already paid for?

    submitted by /u/MillennialSpending
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    BAF Haiku + Light with Innovelli Red Fan + Light

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 11:24 AM PDT

    So here's the conundrum...

    As Is:

    2x wall switches, wired to ceiling fan junction (switch 1: light, switch 2: fan on/off)

    Would like:

    Switch 1: Connected thru HA to control LED strips light/dimming (using separate power source than in ceiling cable). Switched power end capped in ceiling fan junction.

    Switch 2: Innovelli fan + light switch (light: connected to HA to control Haiku light/dimming, fan: connected to HA to control Haiku fan/fan-speed)

    Since the Haiku fan doesn't need the Innovelli controller I was hoping to still use their dual switch portions to control the haiku through HA connections instead of RF to the controller... But it's not clear to me if the light/fan switches of the switch can trigger HA automations (and do so individually - essentially acting as two switches) or if it ONLY does the RF thing to the receiver... Anyone know?

    submitted by /u/KarmaPoliceT2
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    Dimming lamp that has an in-line dimmer

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 03:59 AM PDT

    I have a LED table lamp that has an in-line dimmer on the cord (and it works beautifully, super smooth dimming from 100% to ~10% before it jumps off).

    I'd love to make this smart, but I'm not sure if it's safe or advisable to hook this up to another dimmer? This is what I had in mind. Figured I'd just always leave the in-line dimmer at 100%.

    Any issues here?

    submitted by /u/blerb795
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    Rainmeter and Ifttt webhooks for Windows 10 custom smart home buttons on desktop screen

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 07:35 AM PDT

    Roomba S9+ multiple floors question

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 07:17 AM PDT

    I'm looking to buy the Roomba S9+ model as my first robot vacuuming system (eventually the mopping counterpart after I redo my floors) and I had a question for owners of this model regarding the "multiple floors" feature.

    My home has three floors, a basement, first floor, and second floor, and I'll be moving the vacuum to different floors on different days. The first floor also has a step-down area that I would have to put the vacuum down into to get it to clean that space. Does this Roomba support this many floors? I don't need the basement or the small step-down area to have room specific cleaning capabilities, I would just want the vacuum to clean the entire floor on that specific day.

    Or would my money be better spent buying multiple cheaper vacuums and keeping one on the most frequented floors? (such as the Roborock S6 MaxV, or something that is supported by Home Assistant)

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/Panthon13
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    Lube for Squeaky Chain Actuator?

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 12:54 AM PDT

    I'm using chain actuators like these to motorize the opening and closing of my skylights. One of them has developed a rather noisy squeak when actuating. Can anyone recommend what kind of lubricant I should use to quiet it down? I already ruined one of the actuators by trying a silicon spray like this, which did quiet it down, but also caused the chain to start skipping teeth. So, I'm now reaching out to the community to see if anyone has a better idea. If it's any help, when I first received them, I noticed the chains did have a thick vasaline type of substance on them.

    submitted by /u/merp_alert
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    Crosspost from /r/hue. Looking for some guidance on in-wall wired smart switches!

    Posted: 25 Aug 2020 06:44 AM PDT

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