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    Tuesday, September 8, 2020

    Home Automation Basic dimming with Shelly Dimmer 2 project report

    Home Automation Basic dimming with Shelly Dimmer 2 project report


    Basic dimming with Shelly Dimmer 2 project report

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 06:57 PM PDT

    Smart Plug with real-time power reading?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 02:37 PM PDT

    I have all my entertainment center stuff plugged into one surge protector. Same with my PC and peripherals. I'd love to be able to pull up an app on my phone and check what the whole entertainment center or whole PC is drawing at any given moment. Does any brand of smart plug do that?

    submitted by /u/Morall_tach
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    Replacement wall switch for remote ceiling fans?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 09:44 AM PDT

    Helping my folks with their new house. All the fans they ordered are these new remote control style fans. We had already ordered lutron RRD-2ANF switches since they have a massive RA Select system going in.

    Turns out according to the electricians that these new fans have internal speed control so these switches will not work. You can turn the fans off or on at the wall but not speed control.

    Does anyone make a single gang smart switch of some kind that can effectively learn the codes of the remotes and replace the little handheld remote? My parents will absolutely lose it and they want to either use the wall switch or voice control, not a remote.

    submitted by /u/WeenMalkov
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    New Home Build - Prewire and Potential Automations

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 10:47 PM PDT

    Hey Guys,

    I have a meeting with my construction manager next week and I'm trying to lock down all my prewire stuff before construction for my house. My house is a 1 story house, 3 bedroom + study (2100 sq ft).

    I am planning to run CAT 6 to all 3 bedrooms, study, family room. I'm planning on directly connecting my smart TV to CAT 6 ethernet in the Family room and my Firestick/Chromecast via ethernet as well in other rooms, Setting up my WIFI router (UniFi Dream Machine) in the study, and an additional router in one of the front bedrooms (hopefully would help with my Ring cam connections). I'm also planning to get gigabit internet with the modem and gigabit switch located in the network box in the master closet.

    Devices currently using WIFI to keep in mind - Ring Security system (3 door sensors, motion detector, Ring Alarm), + 3 Ring Stick Up Cams (Front Yard, Garage, Backyard), 2 TP-Link Casa light switches (front porch, back porch), 2 TPLink smart plugs, 2 GE smart bulbs connected to lamps I use Google Home to turn on and off, Alexa Show, and 2 iPhones + 2 laptops (My wife and I both work from home)

    Question 1: Should I run CAT 6 to my Garage and Back Patio (not sure if this is even possible)? In my garage, I would like to automate my garage door (Chamberlain MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener) and also create automation where if the temperature gets to a certain point, it auto kicks on a fan (plugged in with a smart plug) - if someone could advise a good way to do this please let me know.

    On the back patio, I want to do the same thing as the garage, if the temp gets to a certain point, id like to auto kick on the fan (I'm in Texas). My house is also East facing, meaning the back patio is going to get hit directly by the sun in the evenings, so I'd like to install some sort of sunshade/roller shade that I can automate to pull down at certain points of the day and if the temp gets to a certain point.

    Question 2: If I do run CAT 6 to Garage and Patio, where is the best place for them? Does it make sense to add to the roof of the garage near the garage door opener? I'm not sure the best placement for the patio.

    Question 3: does it make sense to add CAT 6 in the kitchen if I want to get smart blinds on the kitchen windows in the future? how would that work? Products like "My Smart Blinds" seem to be built to work off of Wifi and id prefer to power them with a solar

    Right now I don't have a smart hub but am planning to get Samsung Smarthings with the new house.

    As you can tell I'm trying to reduce the amount of smart home stuff that goes on my Wifi network and also trying to keep my house cool during the hot times of the year.

    FYI: Its $115 per additional CAT 6 cable I run with the builder

    Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

    submitted by /u/garrr210
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    Wiring a DIY gate opener that will work from my phone

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 04:31 PM PDT

    Wiring a DIY gate opener that will work from my phone

    I recently bought a house that shares a gate with my neighbor (he owns the gate). I really want to install a system that will allow me to open the gate from my phone.

    I'm brand new to home automation (as in this is my first project), and I have limited knowledge of electrical circuits (I do all my own home electrical projects, but haven't done anything with low voltage in a long, long time). I'm hoping the experts on this sub can help verify my work so I can ensure I don't break my neighbors' gate.

    Over the last few days, I've done a lot of research (with a lot of help getting started with THIS post).

    Here are the goals of this project:

    P0s

    1. Be able to open the gate from my phone, even if not on the same network (i.e. from across the property or the world).
    2. Share access to all capabilities with my wife's phone.
    3. Cannot impact the existing controllers that my neighbor uses.

    P1s

    1. Be able to put the gate in "party mode" from my phone (currently if we want to keep the gate open, we put a rag over the sensor otherwise guests have to call when they get here and ask to be let out).
    2. Share access to only gate capabilities with my neighbor without giving him access to things in my home setup (assuming I add other things in the future).

    P2s

    1. Share temporary access with friends
    2. Automate knowing if the gate is open/closed (I have a camera mounted on my house pointing to the gate so I have a super easy workaround)

    Gate setup

    1. Gate is powered by a GTO controller (RS5211)
    2. Gate is 25-50 ft from house
    3. There is power at the gate and new outlets can be installed there if needed
    4. Gate opens/closes horizontally
    5. Gate is on a ~90 second timer. So in normal operation it closes itself after 90s.

    Overview of my plan

    1. Use zWave for wireless connection as it seems to offer long enough range and there are a ton of other things I can do with zWave in general.
    2. Use Samsung SmartThings as the zWave hub. It seems to have mixed reviews online... but all of the hubs seem to have mixed reviews online, and it seems to be the easiest for a novice to get started. From what I read online, I believe I can share partial access if I create multiple locations - so I could create a location called "Gate" and just share the gate stuff without sharing future home automation.
    3. Use Zooz Zen16 zWave relay as a momentary trigger to open/close gate controller (neighbor is fine with my hooking this up to his gate controller)
      1. I kind of assume I will need to set a rule in smart things to automatically "turn off" this switch to create a mock momentary trigger.
    4. Use a secondary relay on same device to trigger as a on/off switch for the "EXIT" terminal - which is traditionally used if a guest is leaving to automate opening the gate, but per the spec of a similar board (page 31) it appears that if I keep contact on this maintained it will hold the gate open. So if switch is "ON" the gate should be open; if switch is "OFF" gate should close within ~90 seconds (solves party mode).
    5. I will need to download a particular applet to connect to this zWave relay.
    6. House all of this in a plastic junction box to keep things weather proof.

    Particular questions

    1. HEREis my wiring diagram. Do you see anything wrong with this? Is there any reason to believe this would damage the controller or not work?
    2. Is there any safety issues using 18/2 bellwire - esp wrt connecting to the batterty?
    3. Given the battery is already 12v... is there any reason I would need to do anything about adjusting the current?
    4. Is my assumption about partial sharing correct?
    5. Anything you'd do differently?

    A note about knowing if the gate is open/closed...

    I spent awhile looking into this and I decided to scrap it for now. For two reasons:

    1. I was hoping to do this for cheap when I was originally going to use a Qubino relay and I was going to hook a cheap magnetic sensor to it. But I switched to Zooz because it was cheaper and allowed me to do both relays with one device. But I'm not sure how to do the input with it.
    2. I'm not convinced this gate can reliably close in the same position each time - so I think I'd get a lot of false negatives.

    https://preview.redd.it/xo3jerk7j0m51.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bbe43597fec7b27f239e7e4aae0ed3187f8d09b0

    https://preview.redd.it/78g7tik7j0m51.png?width=2032&format=png&auto=webp&s=ffbc36e087d4cafb54547ca1858c0ec21f1b9cda

    submitted by /u/theotherwhitemike767
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    Would like to know if others have tried this yet?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 09:12 PM PDT

    What sensor would I use to measure movement/color changes on a monitor from a PC

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 08:18 PM PDT

    I would like to be able to measure an impulse from color change or motion movement through a monitor which would output an alarm once it reaches a certain threshold. For example if I play a FPS game it would make a noise if player moved passed me, assuming the sensor is placed near the middle of the monitor.

    What sensor is best used to achieve do this? lag is not important

    submitted by /u/nighthawk560
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    Not Responding

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 06:49 AM PDT

    One of my greatest frustrations is when the only solution to a device not responding is to cycle the power, and I'm a thousand miles away.

    Right now, my Lutron hub will not respond, so I've lost control of my lights, although interestingly, I can see from my Arlo camera that they are still turning on and off according to the programmed schedule.

    I'm thinking I need to plug the lutron base and the arlo base into a programmable receptacle, so I can power cycle remotely.

    Has anyone else solved this problem? Also, is there an approach for routers that need to be rebooted remotely?

    submitted by /u/DrJ8888
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    DIY Hue compatible light strips - wiring question

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 08:12 AM PDT

    I've got a few bits delivered to put together a hue compatible LED light strip around the ceiling - I just have a few wiring questions I was hoping somebody could help with. I'm pretty inexperienced with wiring etc. so any recommendations or changes to current setup would be really helpful.

    I have this power adapter: 8A UK Plug link here

    • Input AC100-240V 50/60Hz
    • Output: 12V — 8A
    • UK outlet

    I have this RGB CCT Light Strip link here

    • 24V version
    • Led type: SMD 5050
    • Working Voltage:DC12V/ DC24V
    • LED Quantity:300 leds/roll,5M/roll 60leds/M
    • Size: 500cmX1.2cmX0.2cm

    I have a 1ID Controller Gledtopo controller (to enable the strips to work with Hue) link here

    ——

    I want to run 2x 5m light strips - controller at the centre of the two.

    • Q: Does it matter which end of the light strip the controller is connected to?
    • Q: I believe what I need to do is run these in parallel. 2x wires from each LED strip into the same socket on the controller box. Would this work/change the power output? Is the power adapter I've selected sufficient for 2 24V LED strips and is this the optimum way to connect these two 5m LED strips?
      • Q: I'm assuming I'd need to connect the two LED strips to each other at the end where they aren't entering the controller box. Is this correct?

    I am planning on using Butt connectors and some 6 core wire to connect the LED strips to the controller. I want the LED strips on the ceiling and the current wire coming out of the LED strips is not long enough to reach the floor.

    I followed this guide initially which suggested a 12V 3A power supply will get the job done for 5 metres of light strips.

    • Q: With this in mind, if I order a second 5m 24V light strip, will my power supply be able to handle this? Should I get a larger power supply just in case? Safety is my main priority.
    submitted by /u/ChaFre123
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    Got a 10 feet long double cell motorized blinds from blindsgalore. It's only been 1 week and now it wont go back up. How to fix this?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 09:40 PM PDT

    I just got a long 10 feet double cell motorized blinds from blindsgalore and now the blinds aren't going up. I have it where its plugged into the outlet since the blinds are heavy vs having it battery powered. Now the blinds aren't going backup. How can one fix this?

    this is the model I got: https://www.blindsgalore.com/product/704729/blindsgalore-cordless-double-cell-cellular-shades

    submitted by /u/box1820
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    Harmony IR Hub sending signals to the wrong device

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 09:30 PM PDT

    I have a Logitech Harmony IR Hub that I use to turn control a few IR devices like my TV and a set of Bluetooth speakers in my living room. They are not used at the same time, I have separate speakers for the TV, the Bluetooth speakers only connect to my phone.

    I don't like using Harmony's scenes or automation or any of that, I just wanted an IR blaster that could turn stuff on and off that worked with Alexa, and the Logitech Harmony is the only non cheapo Chinesium one I could find. Since Logitech apparently doesn't think anyone would want it for that reason, as far as I know you can't just have it send an off signal on command or an on signal. It tries to remember what the last command you used was and toggle it in the opposite direction. If you turned the TV off with the remote, Harmony still thinks it's on if you turned it on with Harmony last time, so if you try to turn it on with Harmony, it ignores you because it thinks it's already/ still on.

    So the workaround I created that does work is if I want the TV off, I have an Alexa routine that sends "TV off, TV on, TV off". If Harmony thinks it's on, it'll send an off, on, off signal. If it thinks it's already off(if I used the remote last) it just ignores the first off, sends an on signal to get back on the same page, and then the final actual off to get it to do what I want. Another routine reversed for turning it on, and another set of the same for the Bluetooth speakers.

    The problem I'm encountering is that if I use the TV Off routine, when it's over it's sending an on signal to the Bluetooth speakers. They're not even part of the routine. I can't figure out why Harmony is thinking "I'm supposed to turn device A off, that means I'm also supposed to turn device B on". It does the same thing on the other direction and for both devices. Use a routine to turn one on, it works, but it also toggles the device on its own without me telling it to. I use the Speakers Off routine before going to bed, it turns the speaks off angle then turns the TV on. Why is it doing that and is there any way to fix it?

    submitted by /u/redditsucks144
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    Coax hdmi distribution with hdhomerun

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 03:31 PM PDT

    I know you can have the app on the apple tv. I have heard its possible but cant see the info. Customer has two virgin boxes in the comms cabinet in the garage. Ine is feeding the projector the other would be feed round the house, it this possible to integrate this into the hd homerun device and use this with the hdhomerun app on the apple TVs. We only have coax cables all round the house, but I cant see any matrix system whiches used coax for hdmi in the uk, ideally looking for the one box to go to 8 tvs over coax, or as mentioned above with the hdhomerun app on apple tv?

    submitted by /u/paul090367
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    Samsung Galexy S9 wifi Tips and Alexa

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 05:38 PM PDT

    On the Samsung Galaxy S9 there is a default app called "WiFi Tips" which cannot be disabled. It is continually spamming my phone with a notification that "Amazon Alexa is slowing down your wifi connection by repeatedly connecting in the background".

    Anyone else having this issue or know of a solution? A cursory Google search didn't turn up anything I could find, and it would be nice to stop getting that notification every 15 to 20 seconds.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    submitted by /u/ArmyMP84
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    Best indoor camera system

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 03:10 PM PDT

    It's not really for security; with distance learning, we want to make sure we know where everyone is. Ideally: three cameras, all of which can be seen in one browser. We would also prefer at one that we can add onto, maybe with exterior security cams.

    Thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/terraceten
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    Thermostat opinions? I’m going to need 3 so I’ve got balance cost with features.

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 05:16 PM PDT

    At our old place I had a Honeywell Lyric that was pretty basic but did what I needed at the time: scheduling, Alexa control, geofencing, but that's about it. Recently moved into a new place that has 3 separate AC units (upstairs, downstairs, and bonus room) so I'm trying to decide what to go with here.

    In addition to those basics above the biggest thing I'm looking for is remote sensors and hopefully room presence detection, i.e. "no one is in any of the upstairs rooms so don't bother blasting the air. Oh, someone is now in the office and it's 75 in there, so even though it's 72 at the thermostat better run it to cool that office off".

    Ideally I'd like the above without too much fuss, but since I assume that could get costly (and I have to buy 3) I'm also totally open to rigging something up myself with various pieces. I.e. a simpler thermostat with good 3rd party integration or even an API that I could automate using various motion and temp sensors through Home Assistant or something.

    Suggestions?

    submitted by /u/chazwhiz
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    How would you fix this? Hue bulb turns on when it’s dark..

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 01:32 PM PDT

    Way too much text for the title.

    So I have a hue bulb that I placed into my drive way light fitting. Meaning it is outdoors. It's encased in a waterproof housing and the unit itself has a light sensor on it. Not a smart light sensor, just a sensor that is built in to the unit.

    I did have hue routines that would turn this light on if it was after sunset and I arrived. But this has now been turned off.

    I'm running a hue bridge, raspberry pi with home assistant.

    I was thinking of somehow disabling the sensor. But by placing tape or something over the sensor would make it think it was night and therefore activate the light.

    What I do also have is a hue button that turns on my utility light, drive way light, and garage light at the same time when it is pressed.

    Any thoughts on having this light stay off until I tell it otherwise?

    submitted by /u/CloggyDutch
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    Low cost reactionary battery video doorbell exist?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 05:46 AM PDT

    I have a CCTV at the front of my house. But the font door is indented so when you're waiting AT the door the CCTV doesn't catch you.

    I'm interested in a doorbell or complete lock to stick onto the door, that they can press. I can see who it is, intercom with them, save video if needed.

    Because of the CCTV, I don't need motion, pre-event, etc. The doorbell can be zigbee or wifi, there's good reception.

    Is it possible?

    I saw the xiaomi video doorbell that apparently is ok. But due to the China server it's slow and possibly unusable in the rest of the world.

    I thought the easiest should be a complete door lock/handle system, since you'd have space for a huge battery. And it can help with kids coming home not needing keys. Haven't looked into it much.

    I know the big brands with $140+ stuff, but I don't "need" a doorbell. It's just more for fun. Not many visitors nowadays but post delivery.

    submitted by /u/tab21
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    Making existing light switches smart?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 12:43 PM PDT

    Hi all

    So I've been trying to look for a solution to this, but honestly I'm getting over my head with terminology... Basically, I have a 3 gang light switch (with one dimmer) in a room, and I want to make it smart. But I don't want to replace all the bulbs (too expensive) and I don't want to replace the external light switch plate, but I'm looking at replacing the dimmer switch on the inside (sorry if my terminology is a little off...). The problem also lies in the fact that it is a 3-way switch (two switches can turn off one light), so I'd need it to support that.

    Does anyone know any smart internal dimmer switches that support 3 gang AND 3-way? Also, voice assistants I use are mainly Alexa, but HomeKit would also be a big plus if possible.

    Thanks a bunch in advance!

    submitted by /u/MikeFParkin
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    Brand New VeraLite, what to do?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 10:28 AM PDT

    So I'm cleaning out my closet and realize I had a brand new VeraLite sitting in a box that I never used... Quick look on eBay and they still are selling for about $30-35 used...

    Wondering if I should bother keeping or just offloading and buy something else when the time comes. I initially bought this with a whole bunch of Z-Wave plus devices however I never used because I wanted to ensure all my devices were "plus" to take advantage of the added benefits.

    I also got a whole bunches of GE Z-WAVE plus switches and dimmers sitting in the same box... I guess my question is is it worth holding on to or has technology progressed that I should look into the latest and greatest?

    submitted by /u/URTalking2Jaysen
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    Gate BLB0 : Old firmware, won't connect to wifi or update.

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 05:48 PM PDT

    Anyone have the old apk for the gate Model: BLB0 lock?
    I purchased a used one and can't seem to get the damn thing to pair with wifi to update its firmware or even work. Please advise? Gate support is telling me I'll need to mail it back to them and pay for shipping.

    submitted by /u/kyanox
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    New to home automation - Using google home to control HDMI CEC devices?

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 05:41 PM PDT

    Like I said in the OP I am new to home automation. I have google home with a few smart light switches/dimmers and a few cameras. I however want to move to start controlling some of my AV components over voice.

    All of my components have HDMI CEC, including my TV. To be able to control for example the TV (to power it on or off), what other hardware do I need? From what I researched I need to buy a chrome cast and hook it to the TV? I don't need any streaming, just automation control. So is there anyway to do it without buying a chomecast which I dont need for streaming?

    submitted by /u/DenshaOtaku
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    Home Automation some basic questions

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 11:54 AM PDT

    Hi,

    So i am going to own a house soon and want to get into home automation. Because i finally own a house i feel i can put the effort in it.

    I am researching different options and things but it is such a wild grow of tech, communication standards, hubs and software i have no clue where to begin in terms of combining.

    For lighting inside i would like to go with Hue. It seems pretty good and people i know are very satisfied with it. That seems easy enough. But i also have 5 light fixtures outside, 2 front and 3 back. Both controlled by a different switch. I do not really like the idea of putting Hue lights outside as someone could just walk up, unscrew the glass dome and then steal my lamp... So i was thinking of "educating the light switch" so it becomes smart. Should i use something like a Shelly for this? Another thing is, both the switches are on a double switch outlet (so 1 switch is for outside lighting and there is a switch next to it for hallway lighting on 1 fixture). Is that even do-able? I do not see a need to dim them, but if that is included its very welcome.

    For another thing i would like to automate is heating. I have electric heaters in every room. (No central heating). Each radiator has its own thermostat but they seem very untrustworthy.. So i would like to do a thermostat in a room and somehow get in between the wire coming from the wall. There is a box with a terminal block linking through existing wiring and branching off for the radiator. Is there something that could go in between the wiring and the wiring for the radiator? If so, what is it called? This is so i can regulate the temp in every room better by just putting the radiator on max and cutting off power when its warm enough. (I assume that is what it does anyway by itself already, but just very analogue).

    Then comes the question of how to connect those things to my home server/Home Assistant. (I have an Unraid NAS and have Home Assistent running in docker already because i got ahead of myself). If those parts communicate with ZigBee, could i connect them with the Hue bridge? Or is that a "modified" standard and only works with Hue? What else should i get then, another hub? Or should i focus on WiFi tech?

    I do not know if i want to install the electrical parts myself as it is a wooden house and i do NOT want to risk burning it down and NOT be insured. So i guess i will contact a licensed electrician for the installing.

    Also i probably forgot a lot of questions right now... But maybe i can ask those in the comments. I hope some of you can help me out! I get that its also a lot of preference and i am definitely open for suggestions. I am definitely not pinned on Hue, they just seemed like the best option to me.

    Thank you in advance!

    /MigratieAchtergrond

    submitted by /u/MigratieAchtergrond
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    Looking for a smoke detector that is Kasa App compatible.

    Posted: 08 Sep 2020 11:21 AM PDT

    Has anyone come across a Kasa App compatible smoke detector? I've searched and TP Link does not offer one. I would like to keep all my components on one app.

    submitted by /u/FourFeathers88
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