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    Tuesday, October 6, 2020

    Home Unlabelled Home Automation Notification from my robotic vacuum after it cleans and returns to its dock:

    Home Automation Notification from my robotic vacuum after it cleans and returns to its dock:

    October 06, 2020

    Home Automation Notification from my robotic vacuum after it cleans and returns to its dock:

    Notification from my robotic vacuum after it cleans and returns to its dock:

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 11:49 AM PDT

    Hacking a $7 Zigbee MQTT Hub that comes with two Zigbee 3.0 color temp light bulbs

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 07:24 AM PDT

    The $7 Consciot hub on Amazon (US) comes with two color temp settable light bulbs, speaks MQTT and can join and control other Zigbee 3.0 and Zigbee HA 1.2 light bulbs.

    The hub and the bulbs are manufactured by LEEDARSON and powered by their Arnoo platform. LEEDARSON was also the manufacture of the $4 EcoSmart Zigbee light bulbs that were sold at Home Depot.

    The hub is powered by a rtl8711am SOC - Here are some internal pictures: https://imgur.com/a/FfvQVVE

    The mobile application that powers these is an interesting one. It has a built in web server with a static username and password (ATert16 / sl12346) - On iOS the port is always 27388, but it seems to be random on Android (port scan to find it)

    You can logon with a local browser and have access to their "vConsole" that contains all debugging information, including MQTT details.

    Using the hub and the app is fine, I was able to successfully add bulbs from several other manufactures without issue. However, you can logon to their cloud MQTT server and interact with the system.

    The architecture looks like this: APP/BROWSER ---WS-MQTT --> MQTT SERVER ---MQTTS--> HUB

    Below is the manual process to use the system for technical users. Something like this could be packaged into a script or add on for any home automation platform like Home Assistant, OpenHAB, etc.

    To use MQTT directly, first logon to get your token and id/username:

    curl -H ':method: POST' -H ':scheme: https' -H ':path: /users/login' -H ':authority: prod-us-api.arnoo.com' -H 'content-type: application/json;charset=utf-8' -H 'appid: 68' -H 'accept: application/json, text/plain, */*' -H 'terminal: app' -H 'locale: en-US' -H 'accept-language: en-us' -H 'accept-encoding: gzip, deflate, br' -H 'origin: http://localhost:27388' -H 'content-length: 214' -H 'user-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; CPU iPhone OS 14_0_1 like Mac OS X) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/14.0 Mobile/15E148 Safari/604.1' -H 'referer: http://localhost:27388/' --data-binary '{"username":"YOUREMAIL@HERE.COM","password":"YOURMD5HASHEDCONSCIOTPASSWORDHERE","phoneId":"f0f6ee8281905ed216582671271f0d74ed85e4969295a053de95a5cd71d73642","os":1,"appVersion":"99.0.0","webVersion":"2.20.18"}' 'https://prod-us-api.arnoo.com/users/login'

    The "id" that is returned will be your MQTT username. Note down the id and the access token for the next step.

    Next, get your MQTT password (this changed on each logon and only a single MQTT connection can be opened at once):

    curl -H ':method: GET' -H ':scheme: https' -H ':path: /commons/userConfig' -H ':authority: prod-us-api.arnoo.com' -H 'appid: 68' -H 'accept: application/json, text/plain, */*' -H 'owner: YOURIDHERE' -H 'terminal: app' -H 'locale: en-US' -H 'accept-language: en-us' -H 'accept-encoding: gzip, deflate, br' -H 'token: YOURACCESSTOKENHERE' -H 'origin: http://localhost:27388' -H 'user-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; CPU iPhone OS 14_0_1 like Mac OS X) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/14.0 Mobile/15E148 Safari/604.1' -H 'referer: http://localhost:27388/' 'https://prod-us-api.arnoo.com/commons/userConfig'

    Next get your house ID, and all associated devices with your house. 

    curl -H ':method: GET' -H ':scheme: https' -H ':path: /houses' -H ':authority: prod-us-api.arnoo.com' -H 'appid: 68' -H 'accept: application/json, text/plain, */*' -H 'owner: YOURIDHERE' -H 'terminal: app' -H 'locale: en-US' -H 'accept-language: en-us' -H 'accept-encoding: gzip, deflate, br' -H 'token: YOURACCESSTOKENHERE' -H 'origin: http://localhost:27388' -H 'user-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; CPU iPhone OS 14_0_1 like Mac OS X) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/14.0 Mobile/15E148 Safari/604.1' -H 'referer: http://localhost:27388/' 'https://prod-us-api.arnoo.com/houses'

    The ID that is returned is your house ID. Query for all associated devices on your account:

    curl -H ':method: GET' -H ':scheme: https' -H ':path: /devices?houseId=YOURHOUSEIDHERE' -H ':authority: prod-us-api.arnoo.com' -H 'appid: 68' -H 'accept: application/json, text/plain, */*' -H 'owner: YOURIDHERE' -H 'terminal: app' -H 'locale: en-US' -H 'accept-language: en-us' -H 'accept-encoding: gzip, deflate, br' -H 'token: YOURACCESSTOKENHERE' -H 'origin: http://localhost:27388' -H 'user-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; CPU iPhone OS 14_0_1 like Mac OS X) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/14.0 Mobile/15E148 Safari/604.1' -H 'referer: http://localhost:27388/' 'https://prod-us-api.arnoo.com/devices?houseId=YOURHOUSEIDHERE'

    Note down the IDs for each device. You'll want to sub to them on the MQTT server. Also note down the parent id -- that is the ID of your hub.

    Now make a MQTT connection over websockets to wss://us-mqtt.arnoo.com/mqtt:8443 - Your username is the ID that was returned in the first curl command and password is the password returned in the second curl command. Set your client ID to app-YOURMQTTUSERNAME

    Subscribe to these topics:

    iot/v1/c/YOURMQTTUSERNAME/# iot/v1/cb/IDOFANYDEVICES/#

    Turning a device on/off - Topic:

    iot/v1/c/IDOFDEVICE/device/setDevAttrReq

    Payload:

    {"method":"setDevAttrReq","service":"device","payload":{"devId":"YOURDEVICEID","userId":"YOURIDHERE","password":"","parentId":"HUBIDHERE","attr":{"OnOff":0}},"clientId":"app-YOURIDHERE","srcAddr":"0.YOURIDHERE"}

    Repeat this process for any other methods or steps you want to capture. Use the local browser and the hosted app web server to inspect any other additional commands/events. They do seem to support PIR sensors as well, but I haven't went that far to see if they generate MQTT events.

    Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions, or come across anything else interesting.

    submitted by /u/Wwalltt
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    CCTV / IP Cameras for remote access

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 09:53 PM PDT

    There are a lot of cameras that are available in the market. The price range is huge.

    I am wondering how do I differentiate which camera is good quality-wise?

    Maybe you can suggest any IP camera that should I try?

    submitted by /u/jamesftf
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    Hugolog smart locks with Z-Wave

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 09:14 PM PDT

    Has anyone used the Hugolog door locks with Z-Wave? We have been testing one and when we added it in SmartThings, it showed up as the Alfred lock. Wondering if anyone has used it with other hubs?

    submitted by /u/valigatorCA
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    Dimmable under-cabinet LED strips for use with a Lutron smart switch?

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 02:49 PM PDT

    We are having our kitchen remodeled, and I want to add some LED strips under the cabinets, but I'm not sure what specific type to get. I'd like to have them hard-wired to a Lutron smart dimming switch (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Smart-Lighting-Dimmer-Switch-for-Wall-and-Ceiling-Lights-White-PD-6WCL-WH-R/206828225)

    Is there a specific type of LED strip I would need to get for this? I am having an electrician do the installation so I don't burn my house down, but I don't know enough about the electrical aspect to know if the LED strip needs to have a specific feature. So the goal is to have dimmable LED strips under the cabinets.

    Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated!

    submitted by /u/chooseausername23456
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    Is there a smart way for one switch-controlled outlet to control other regular, always hot outlets?

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 08:36 PM PDT

    I just bought a home (built in '63). The family room has no overhead lighting. One outlet (top and bottom) is controlled by a light switch. The rest of the outlets are standard, always hot.

    I'm trying to find a more cost-effective way (rather than an electrician rewiring everything) to have the one light switch control multiple lights besides the one plugged into the switched outlet. I know I can do smart outlets that can be voice-controlled, but I need to be able to trigger the lights on or off by the switch alone. So I'm imagining a smart outlet that can communicate to other smart outlets to trigger on/off when it's turned on/off.

    The switch does have a neutral wire (1 of only 2 in the house that does) so maybe I could get a smart switch that sends the on/off signal to the smart outlets?

     

    ***Just for Background***

    I've been doing basic WIFI light bulb and outlet automation for a few years, but now that I have my own home I'm looking to expand. I've read the Mega "getting started" thread and realize I have a lot more consideration and planning to do before I start pulling the trigger on anything major. This is one solution I'd like to get in place, be it temporary or not, before starting the "bigger picture" stuff.

    submitted by /u/never-say_die
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    Is it worth to invest in Shelly for Tasmota

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 12:47 PM PDT

    Open for discussion.

    I think that paying extra for shelly products (1, 1 PM, 2.5) is not worth if you plan to flash it with Tasmota. Unless you want to get UL certified devices.

    Shelly has already marvelous soft on it.

    submitted by /u/konradbjk
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    Google Home/Custom Hue Scene/Household Family Member Problem

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 03:10 PM PDT

    Hey All,

    I created a custom Hue scene in the Hue app. I said "sync my devices" to my Google Home. I as the primary Hue/Google Home account am able to say "Activate Custom Scene", but my wife who is a household member in Google Home is not able to have it respond properly to "Activate Custom Scene". We do have voice match turned on.

    How do I get it to allow my wife to use the Hue custom scene? Anyone else run into this?

    submitted by /u/smdion
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    I want to control my wall heaters (electric) - I have a plan, but some pointers would be much appreciated!

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 01:40 PM PDT

    I know roughly what I need to do to achieve this, but there are gaps in my knowledge which are stopping me getting much further with it, so I'm looking for someone who knows what they're doing to help me out!

    Basically, my heaters have a power button on the top of them which is a simple momentary switch similar to what you'd find in a TV remote. My plan is to use a transistor across the existing switch contacts, and then control the base of the transistor with an ESP8266 (which I'll then program to work with my Home Automation setup). I'm then going to set up a temp sensor separate to this and have it trigger the heaters on and off automatically.

    What I'm looking for help with is how I should go about attaching the transistor in terms of whether or not I'll need resistors etc. I've already traced the circuit and found two solder points which will be ideal (and I've tested them by putting a jumper wire across them, which does work).

    The circuit board in question has pretty much no markings on it, and I'm not even sure whether it's AC or DC based, let alone what voltages I'm working with.

    I'm a little lost and would love some help... Thank you to anyone who'd be willing to go on this journey with me. I'm tempted to just shove an NPN straight in there and then feed 'digital high' to the base leg from an ESP, but am worried about blowing something up.

    After this first one, I'll be installing the mod in every room.

    submitted by /u/jonyfive
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    Ditching Google in its entirety.

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 05:15 PM PDT

    I have Nest Thermostats, Nest Cameras, Nest Secure, Google Speaker & hubs, Chromebooks, Cast TV's and Android Phones and Watches. I am ditching it all and switching it out.

    1. Google Assistant is garbage. There are features you cannot change like recommendations and responses. Which is idiotic and annoying. Also, it consistently misbehaves.

    2. Android glitches constantly. Before you blame the device, I've had several flagships. I was a market manager for RadioShack for 8 years and know my tech. Android bugs all of the time.

    3. Politics. I am an avid hunter and shooter. I downloaded the Cabela's App. When I searched for a rifle I got a message that said "Due to Googles restrictive Firearms policy we can not display results of Firearms and Ammo." I wanted to leave them after YouTube demonetized gun channels, but I stayed the course. I CANNOT abide by a tech company censoring my content! Especially when its legal!

    Making the transition during the holiday season so I can get the best deals.

    Goodbye Google!

    submitted by /u/ThumbFuNinja
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    Z Wave controller/hub recommendations

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 04:38 PM PDT

    I want to use this switch to control this floodlight sensor. What type of hub do I need? What's a controller? Is it a software based controller?

    submitted by /u/Machinebroke
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    Installed Eaton brand wifi dimmer, does not turn on light but receives power and connects to wifi network, help?

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 11:26 AM PDT

    The light in the room isn't powering on, but the dimmer switch itself lights up and I was able to connect it to my wifi.

    Not sure what would cause this, the light fixture says its dimmer compatible.

    I have neutral, hot, light switch, and ground wire plugged in.

    Any thoughts is helpful thanks!

    Edit: Also there was two neutrals tied together when I opened the junction box, do I need both or one plugged in?

    Dimmer I'm using : https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Wi-Fi-smart-3-Way-White-Ivory-Light-Almond-LED-Decorator-Companion-Dimmer/1002943654?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-205-_-dimmersandspecialtydevices-_-1002943654-_-0&placeholder=null&gclsrc=aw.ds&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=CjwKCAjwiOv7BRBREiwAXHbv3IptEgkGFMQMmT1iuTMOQtrIM8tK9wnWNKjtgacIkRr120_nPbkgARoCRYQQAvD_BwE

    submitted by /u/UnstoppableHeart
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    Monitor and alert on power loss, via wifi?

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 02:24 PM PDT

    I have a freezer chest which is on a circuit (with two other appliances) which has tripped twice in the past 3 months. (Otherwise power+internet is very reliable in my neighborhood.) It's super important I know when this circuit trips so I can do it myself, or ask my pet-sitter to do it at the next visit.

    I'm at the precipice of a rabbit hole of purchasing a Raspberry pi, and scripting some REST calls to an AWS Lambda (I'm a Cloud/infra dev) to log 'check ins', and a seperate Lamdba to detect then notify on the absence of said 'check ins'.....

    Or if there's any simpler way to do this? I've seen some outlet alarms but it's using a 3G SIM do to SMS/vmail notification and then it's a monthly expense. Any suggestions much appreciated. Close in nature to this post.

    submitted by /u/yamori_yamori
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    Lost internet this weekend --or-- I had to turn off a light manually, options?

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 02:18 PM PDT

    So I lost internet on Friday, should be back tonight/tomorrow. I've come to realize that I might be too invested into ecosystems that have no offline control. What options might I have to remedy this?

    I currently have the following:

    • Several Amazon Echos
    • 4 TP-Link KASA lightbulbs
    • FireTV
    • Chromecast
    • Plex Server -- I mention this because without the web you can't login unless you happen to have cached credentials, which thankfully we did.

    I realize that some of these won't be controlled offline but what can I do to mitigate as much that I can?

    submitted by /u/rcook55
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    Looking for a home automation device that can send RF signals on 916MHz

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 01:24 PM PDT

    I'm trying to figure out a way to control my existing pool set up. I bought a Broadlink RM Pro but it turns out it can only control 433MHz. My pool equipment panel is a Pentair i7+3 and I can control it using a wall mounted panel and a handheld remote. Both operate using 916MHz. The remote is so old and permanent battery doesn't work so the only way to use it is to have it plugged in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

    submitted by /u/jdsundevils
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    Using Spare Screens for Ambiance - further automation Ideas needed to control multiple PC's from Phone - see comment

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 07:25 AM PDT

    Looking for a Zigbee or Z-Wave controller for LED strip lights. (One that for sure works well with SmartThings)

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 01:01 PM PDT

    Seems like there's a plethora of options on Amazon and such, but figured I would check here to see if anyone's using one or another they really like.

    Awesome would be one controller that can control two separate runs, but that's not a deal breaker. Just trying to add some nice lighting to some storage shelves.

    submitted by /u/HawkeyeFLA
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    Can broadlink push an automatic firmware update to my RM Mini3?

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 12:31 PM PDT

    I have a RM Mini3 and I'm happily using it with both the official app and the opensource python module. I know that there have been problems with new versions of the firmware breaking compatibility with the python module.

    I see that the app has a section for manual firmware update, and I'll make sure to stay away from that, but I was wondering if I should fear an automatic update without me doing anything in the app.

    To make sure it does't happen I could prevent it from connecting to the internet, but obviously that would break the app (which is less important to me than the python module, so if there's any risk I will do it).

    submitted by /u/RedEddAndEdit
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    Looking for Homekit/homebridge compatible fan controller

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 12:15 PM PDT

    I have some cheap US ceiling fans in my house that I'd like to automate. I'm looking for a controller that will work with either Homekit, or that's well supported by Homebridge plugins. Any suggestions?

    I've been looking at something like this, but I'm not finding much in the way of Homebridge support.

    submitted by /u/PigSlam
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    Cheap nightlight automation

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 08:24 AM PDT

    Cheap nightlight automation

    Hello smart lazy people!

    I'm trying to automate a Aurora light projector, the only issue is that in order to turn it on you have to press a button (I know, just like a caveman). Is it possible to bypass the ON button so it turns on when its given power?

    I own a simple smart plug with usb entrances and simple welding tools. I wanted to ask firs before opening it and trying myself.

    Thanks and a hug in advance!!!

    ​

    https://preview.redd.it/mq6n2qsqrar51.jpg?width=4160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a58520d09cf45ce048bc72697384ec288adbe0bd

    ​

    https://preview.redd.it/2vie9bwlnar51.jpg?width=3120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39ab11bfbd1018e944012dfed6315228586df709

    submitted by /u/olmed
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    Light/brightness sensor? (Tuya)

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 12:05 PM PDT

    Any suggestions for any sort of light sensor? Not a motion sensor.

    I'm curious if I can have my lights dim on as a room gets darker, between certain times. Basically so even if the sun hasn't technically set, but it's dark out, I can get them to light up my place.

    submitted by /u/Bigmealplantime
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    Ceiling Fan "Issues"

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 10:53 AM PDT

    I bought one of these ceiling fans. It came with a remote and wireless controller in the box. The controller was DOA. Luckily I had a Sonoff iFan03, from a different dumb fan that was replaced with a smart fan.

    The iFan03 works fine as a replacement for the DOA wireless controller. In the room in question we have a wall switch for the light. When you turn the light off at the switch it kills power to the Sonoff too effectively killing the fan's ability to be remote controlled via HomeKit. That's sort of the opposite of desired behavior. Aside from that everything works great. I think the issue is because the previous dumb fan was a pull chain fan and this new fan is not.

    So the question is, I guess, what can I do to maintain HomeKit compatibility and control of the light and fan while retaining the wall switch for the light without powering down the Sonoff when I flip the light switch?

    submitted by /u/400HPMustang
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    [Question] Sonoff T16 Overheat-Short circuit

    Posted: 05 Oct 2020 10:41 AM PDT

    Hi all,

    This happen this morning at 3am circa. My Sonoff T16 started overheating (probably a short circuit) and released a pungent smell of burned plastic which woke up us. It was pretty hot but it was working, and also the appliance linked too.

    https://ibb.co/NVRqj6G

    https://ibb.co/yhrNz3h

    https://ibb.co/Zzk5DQ9

    https://ibb.co/cwHG8ZZ

    ​

    The Sonoff was connected to a Dimplex XT18 storage heater (max 2400w - 11A circa) in order to turn it on between 1.30AM - 8.30AM and take advantage of Economy7 (low energy price during night).It was not the first time I used the combo, in fact, I set it up in Feb and it was perfectly working until April.Two days ago I turn it on again the Sonoff.

    I was quite scared this morning, however, now the storage heater is hard wired and I bypassed the Sonoff.I am just wondering if it safe to re-do it or not, especially because neither circuit breaker nor the 13A fuse went off. The Sonoff I was using is tested for 16A and the cable used are 2.5mm copper wire ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-3-4-5-CORE-ELECTRICAL-FLEX-ROUND-CABLE-WIRE-0-75mm-1mm-1-5mm-2-5mm-BLACK-WHITE/123894856367?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 ). As you can see I covered every cable with some heat shrink tube to isolate as much as I could!

    Anybody had a similar experience?

    Cheers!

    submitted by /u/ZioUncleTeo
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