Home Automation My home automation installer put this in and I need another one. What is it and where can I buy one? |
- My home automation installer put this in and I need another one. What is it and where can I buy one?
- I hope my intrusion alert scares the crap out of potential burglars
- Pedestal fan made smart
- IQPanel 2 Locked Up
- Live wire smaller than lock
- Power on smart switches in a LIFO (last on first off) sequential order
- Share your frustration/troublesome story when setting up the IoT devices that you wish could be handled/solved differently.
- Emproia Vue energy monitor with my own CT sensors
- Shelly Falling off the Wifi
- MagicHome LED WiFi
- Made this guide about using phone location capabilities for home automation purposes
- Dumb question - multiple switches with a single circuit
- Heatit Z-TRM2 vs Z-TRM3
- Calex RGB light strips
- Is it safe to use 6 watts led lights in a maximum 5 watts led lights socket?
- Any solutions?? - LED strip Lights Turn on (and stay on) after every power failure event (when the power is restored)
- Should I consider moving from Indigo (macOS) to Home Assistant?
- Home screen display suggestion?
- Lutron - Pico Dimmer w Serena Shades?
- Way to map Apple Homekit to other HA systems?
- Looking for smardoorbell with distance signal 65feet
- Anyone have a suggestion for quality dimmable retro-fit LED 4" round hi hats that provide warm light when dimmed, and cooler light (3500K) when full blast? The LEDs I have look and feel terrible when dimmed.
| My home automation installer put this in and I need another one. What is it and where can I buy one? Posted: 12 Feb 2021 03:44 PM PST
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| I hope my intrusion alert scares the crap out of potential burglars Posted: 12 Feb 2021 07:09 AM PST
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| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 04:15 PM PST
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| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 02:13 PM PST We recently moved into a rental unit and it has an IQPanel 2 and sensors installed. However, the IQPanel is stuck on the red "ALARM - Enter Code to Deactivate" page. We do not know the code, do not have access to the previous tenants, and the rental property does not know the code. I reached out to IQPanel and they said there's nothing they can do for me. Is there any way to get access to this system? I've tried default codes 2222, 1111, 1234, and 4321. Property also said they would not pay to repair/install the system. Any help is appreciated, thanks. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 03:07 PM PST Just got a honeywell z wave outlet but one of my live wires is too skinny too stay in place locked. Anything i can do? Not sure why the original builders did this? Running it in with the wire cover fits will the locking screw pinch the cover and make contact with the wire? Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
| Power on smart switches in a LIFO (last on first off) sequential order Posted: 12 Feb 2021 03:20 PM PST I have a home studio with an audio interface and some studio monitors. I want to be able to turn it all on with a single voice command, but it is critical that the audio interface turns on first, then the speakers after a short delay... Then when I want to turn it off, the speakers must shut off first, then the audio interface after a short delay. I currently have a few tp-link kasa smart plugs, but unfortunately the app doesn't seem to have any way to configure an on/off sequence of multiple plugs with delays in-between. Do any other smart plugs support such a feature? How can I make this work? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 01:47 PM PST Let me go first: Setting up your own smart home is for sure fun and accomplishing. However, the amount of research on which device to get, having the ability to understand all the technical concepts and the handy skills to install them is just too much to ask for. Getting a single IoT product and set it up is easy because the company has already done the work to simplify the process for you. But if you want to set up an automated system that handles multiple devices and works perfectly almost requires a college degree! Internet concepts, cloud integration, electrical basics and cybersecurity. That would stop most people to get into this. Plus, the devices are not cheap, having a whole automated system would cost easily over $500. I wish this could be changed and has a lower bar for people to convert their home to a smart home. I think the benefit of doing so is really clear in this subreddit: energy saving, futurist home and it just feels nice to have everything magically become better than before. What are your hardships in setting up your automated system? [link] [comments] | ||
| Emproia Vue energy monitor with my own CT sensors Posted: 12 Feb 2021 01:29 PM PST Recently purchased an Emporia Vue energy monitor. Comes with 16 50a CT sensors. I have a sub-panel I'd like to monitor that's over 50a though. I have some 100a CT sensors from a previous system that died. I'm trying to figure out how I can use these. The tech I spoke with on the Emproia side said I just need to work out the multiplier to put in their system, which is based on a 50a CT sensor. I assumed .5 - but using that multiplier shows 2600 watts where there's NO load on the sub-panel. Any ideas? Doable? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 04:53 PM PST I've hidden a Shelly 1PM behind a switch and I've got it wired up in "Detached Switch" mode. This means there's always power going to hue bulbs it controls. I have a simple setup with Home Assistant: Toggle the physical switch, and the lights are told to switch to the opposite state. Randomly throughout the day, my lights will just turn off. It took a bit of poking around, but I'm discovering that the Shelly will fall off the wifi, and when it comes back, it sends an event to HA, and then my lights turn off. I've also found times where my physical switch is unresponsive. Turns out this is also from the Shelly losing the network. This makes Shelly devices a non-starter for me. Have people run into this? Is there anything to be done? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 03:50 AM PST Hi, so I bought the MagicHome LED WiFi strip recently and it worked fine for the first week but it just wouldn't connect to the WiFi starting yesterday. I've tried resetting it but it just doesn't seem to connect. For context, I've tried to reset the device by plugging unplugging four times and reconnecting, I've tried to turn off mobile data and turn on airplane mode but it still doesn't connect. I've tried to reinstall the app and completely disconnect the power and reset but still no avail, I've also tried to connect it from the app and also tried the manual configuration method but still no connection. The furthest I get to is the screen where it loads after I've typed in my internet password and it just loads and asks for the password again. I'm also connected to a 2.4GHz WiFi. Does anyone have a solution or a work around? If you do, please leave them over in the replies and I'll reply to you if I've tried it out. I'm pretty sure I've reset the device about 30 times now. Thank you in advance [link] [comments] | ||
| Made this guide about using phone location capabilities for home automation purposes Posted: 12 Feb 2021 07:44 PM PST
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| Dumb question - multiple switches with a single circuit Posted: 12 Feb 2021 05:55 AM PST Hello, I have a question, I know that this has been brought up multiple times but I already saw a couple different answers. When having lights in my hallway connected to multiple switches and when wanting them to be smart without actually putting in smart bulbs (because we have a custom solution.) Am i correct by assuming that it would be ok with just putting in one shelly module under one single switch to make all the hallway switches controllable by homekit? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 05:04 AM PST Anyone here upgraded from Z-TRM2 to Z-TRM3? I recently bought a Z-TRM2 and had a hard time pairing it. Reading various forums it seems like these have their fair share of issues. I also saw that thermo floor listed back in 2018 that you could swap it for an upgraded model (I think Z-TRM2fx at the time) or wait for a new edition and then upgrade. My Z-TRM2 seems to be working fine now when I finally got it paired. Basically wondering if it's worth it trying to get it upgraded to the next version? Or if the upgrade offer is even still valid? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 09:24 AM PST I am considering getting a Calex RGB light strip from Tesco in the UK. 5 metres for £20 which is a great price. I plan to use it under three kitchen cupboards, controllable with Alexa. Is it possible to get another couple of cheap compatible drivers or do I need to buy three kits? [link] [comments] | ||
| Is it safe to use 6 watts led lights in a maximum 5 watts led lights socket? Posted: 12 Feb 2021 05:37 AM PST Is it safe to use 6 watts led lights in a pendant light that have 5 socket with maximum 5 watts led lights socket? Edit: On the box it say maximum 40 watts but on the light socket is said maximum 5 watts led. This is the pendant light: https://www.structube.com/en/itasca-pendant-100cm-length-16-77-63?pid=21284 Solved: Due to heat generated at the base of the LED it's better to respect the 5 watts maximum for led. I will go with a LED of 4 watts instead. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 10:18 AM PST The Problem: LED strip Lights Turn on (and stay on) after every power failure event (when the power is restored). The Lede: I Purchased LED Strip Lights 16.4Ft/5Mt - ILintek - Lumary Smart WiFi Color Changing RGB+WW+CW Compatible with Alexa/Google Home Controlled via SmartLife App on Iphone and using Google Home mini. These Illuminate my kitchen cabinet toe-kicks and I love them, but we lose power quite often where I live and every single time that happens, I need to turn these specific lights off. None of the other lights are affected. We have a generator with automatic transfer switch, but it does not kick in until after 20 seconds of the failure. Using a battery is not an option for this application (no space) and, being toe-kick lights, bending over to push buttons and fiddle with them all the time is no fun either. The Question: Is there a free or inexpensive option, automation, trick, setting or otherwise that can be implemented to solve this inconvenience automatically? I have done google searches phrasing this question various ways, but I can't seem to find anyone even discussing an approach. I am relatively inexperienced with smart home setups so please explain like I'm 5. All help is greatly appreciated. [link] [comments] | ||
| Should I consider moving from Indigo (macOS) to Home Assistant? Posted: 12 Feb 2021 07:49 AM PST I've been running Indigo for several years. Previously in a house and then later in an apartment. Most devices are z-wave with a Harmony Hub and Alexa sometimes integrates. I mostly just use plug-in appliance modules, motion sensors and door sensors along with a z-wave door lock and a thermostat. Around the holidays some z-wave LED bulbs come into play as well as outdoor modules. I have Ring Doorbell but don't really bother with much integration of it since it must run on battery. I have a USB Z-stick that communicates with the z-wave devices and one repeater. I have presence detection with a plug-in that uses Fing and a few other plugins (Alexa integration is a bit messy - a plug-in that pretends to be a Hue bridge). Schedules manage the thermostat and some lights; Indigo also uses the presence detection to activate or deactivate video recording in Sighthound Video (also on the Mac). I used to do more complex things back when I lived in a house; less in the apartment. I really like Indigo and for the last handful of years I've seen some useful additions to the software (such as secure z-wave support). The guys that run it seem great; I've interacted with them a few times. But, I'm not thrilled about the change to a subscription cost. On top of that, I'm uncertain if I'll always have a Mac that I can afford just leave acting as a server. It's been very, very stable but the cost of Macs just keeps increasing (I don't plan to ditch Apple but I might not spend money to use one for HA anymore). Even a Mac mini can get expensive with minor upgrades and Apple Care. I don't have as much time to tinker with side projects as I once did so I'm wondering how difficult it would be to transition over to at least replicate everything I'm doing now? If it seems worth it, I'd make the time. Those of you that have done this, have you encountered many compatibility issues with z-wave hardware? Any advice will be appreciated. [link] [comments] | ||
| Home screen display suggestion? Posted: 12 Feb 2021 10:30 AM PST I've completed the basic setup of Hassio on my RP and now I'm looking at the best/preferred way of displaying the content on a 32" TV as a family content hub. The page is set up using Home Panel from the Add-on Store which shows my Google Calendar, 7 Day forecast, video cam feed, and other relevant info. Since my Hassio is right next to the display should I use it to display the Home Panel? If so, how do I enable it because right now it just shows the HA command prompt? Or, should I use a separate PI/Computer and then just load up the URL of my Home Panel? Thank you for any help you can provide. [link] [comments] | ||
| Lutron - Pico Dimmer w Serena Shades? Posted: 12 Feb 2021 06:34 AM PST Hi fellow nerds. I'm about to pull the trigger on some honeycomb Serena Shades, but wanted to inquire as to Pico compatibility. Specifically, I have a Caseta Bridge (non-pro) with some dimmer switches already - including 2 Pico's that came with the dimmers which I am not using. My question is can I use those Dimmer Pico's to control the Serena shades? Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Way to map Apple Homekit to other HA systems? Posted: 12 Feb 2021 06:19 AM PST There's a lockset I'm interested in buying that apparently only works with Apple Homekit. My house uses Google Home. Is there any way to get a Homekit only item to work with Google Home or IFTTT? I suspect not, but maybe someone has cracked the code... [link] [comments] | ||
| Looking for smardoorbell with distance signal 65feet Posted: 12 Feb 2021 07:04 AM PST So i have a big yard in my home that leeds to my front door and the distance bettewen my fornt door and the rooter of my house is at least 65feet give or take . what am looking for? 1 price friendly 2 I dont care for high quality camera [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 12 Feb 2021 08:35 AM PST Hey Guys. It's mostly in the title. The LEDs I have installed in my house (RAB R4R8935120WB) provide a quality of light when dimmed that I can hardly stand. Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? Am I just nuts? Are there hi hats that will warm when dimmed? (is that a thing) Any suggestions for an LED product that will provide more comfortable dim light? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
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