Home Automation My wife decided to bake me a cake to go along with my birthday present this year. Can't wait to fire this thing up! |
- My wife decided to bake me a cake to go along with my birthday present this year. Can't wait to fire this thing up!
- Mega "Reasons to Avoid WiFi Products" thread
- Looking to set up LED light strips for the first time, got a few questions
- We've used architectural LED lighting used fro buildings for the drag race event, quite fun ������������
- Help identifying lightbulb
- I'm looking to buy a smart lock for my apartment - I want it to notify me if the door has been opened
- Auto switching between two heaters
- wifi Switch and smart bulbs
- Any idea how to add a smart lock here?
- Interconnected Home Automation with node red
- Would a Shelly dimmer relay work to control the speed of an inline duct fan?
- Can Caseta bridge be used as a generic 433Mhz to Wifi bridge?
- openHAB3 vs Home Assistant
- Close-up Motion Sensor to detect a hand-wave gesture?
- Possible Project: Converting a "dumb" ceiling fan into a "smart" fan
- What is your favorite, or most unexpected, device or function?
- How to make a BR30 flood blink with MQTT
- Using Sharptools is there a way I can pull up a specific feed within the Arlo app?
- What are the pros and cons of Bluetooth vs. Wifi light bulbs?
- Add neutral wire
- (UK) Is the original Hive Hub Nano compatible with more modern products such as bulbs?
- Is there a smart thermostat that will report information to my smart relays?
- Anyone open up a lightify hub?
- This is agitating. Brilliant/Honeywell.
| Posted: 06 Mar 2021 09:04 AM PST
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| Mega "Reasons to Avoid WiFi Products" thread Posted: 06 Mar 2021 05:32 PM PST Updated repost of my popular third installment in what's become my "Mega" article series. See "Getting Started" and "reviews". WiFi devices are common, and appealing since they usually don't require an additional hub/bridge/router/switch/controller. This makes WiFi devices a great choice for beginners. I don't want to discourage beginners from taking the leap into smart hominess, and sometimes there are good reasons to use WiFi for home automation, or even the only option, but be aware of the trade-offs. If you have WiFi devices that are working well, I'm not saying to replace them, but I am saying there may come a day when you regret it - many of the issues become more serious the more devices there are.
1 - Different devices have different network needs of speed vs bandwidth. Phones, tvs, etc., require a balance between number of requests (latency) and data usage (bandwidth). Smart home products make many tiny requests, often with a need for super fast response times. You aren't going to notice the buffer bar of YouTube being 50ms shorter but 100ms with lights turning on is noticeable. You might disagree when you die playing HalfLife Online or whatever the kids are playing today, but that's the point... Adding a lot of low-bandwidth devices can cause issues with all devices. Note that this won't be an issue unless you have 50+ devices - YMMV.
2 - Inference is a bitch! It can cause lag, lost data, less range, lower signal strength, and dead zones, which makes it particularly hard to diagnose. Interference isn't just caused by two sets of signals drowning each other out, it's also happens within a network. Electromagnetic waves bounce off of (or bent by) obstacles (like walls) which create eddies - and destructive interference. That's relevant because home automation products are usually in many, varied and weird places. While interference can happen with any wireless network, WiFi is longer-range and higher power than ZigBee or Z-Wave, therefore all-else-equal will have cause interference.
Note: This applies somewhat less to re-flashed generic devices. 3 - ZigBee and Z-Wave are as secure as possible short of using candles, since they have a limited command structure. Even if a device is compromised, for the most part, the worst damage would be to send a command like "turn off". Even though WiFi is equally (or perhaps more) secure against becoming compromised, ZigBee and Z-Wave devices are essentially uncompromisable; only the controllers are a serious security concern.
Note: This basically doesn't apply to re-flashed generic devices. 4 - By combining home automation with computing devices, they essentially share security risks. Adding more types of devices expands the number of potential exploits. Low priority and often under-secured devices are used as way into higher priority targets like computers and cellphones. Smart home products that use apps are yet more vulnerable. ZigBee and Z-Wave are inherently separated from the home network. Although it's best to separate devices that don't require direct internet to another network, that's yet another thing to do with WiFi devices, and yet another thing to never quite get around to doing before your identity is controlled by a Lithuanian cartel (and compounds #2) - see #6 and #7.
5 - Despite "mesh WiFi" routers being a thing, WiFi is not mesh. ZigBee and Z-Wave devices act as repeaters. In general, more devices will cause a WiFi network to get worse and decrease range. In general, more Z-Wave and ZigBee make the network stronger and increase range.
6 - WiFi usually has a limit of 50 devices (depending on the router; it's not a hard limit). That's pretty much the same as most ZigBee and Z-Wave controllers, but if you reach the device limit (or putting some home automation devices on a separate network), bridging multiple WiFi networks can be pretty difficult. However, it's typically easy to bridge multiple ZigBee and Z-Wave networks. Indeed, ZigBee has a theoretical maximum of ~15 million devices, so it's not bridging networks, it's setting to controllers to work together. (Z-Wave has a maximum of 255 devices per network.)
7 - Many people cite price as a reason to use WiFi. Often, that is true. Comparing prices brand-to-brand (eg comparing Hue to LifX, or Sengled to Gledopto) that often doesn't hold true. However, when looking at off- or no-brand products, be sure to account for the hidden cost of the router. Even if you have one, you may need another (see #1, #4, and #6), and a good quality WiFi router can be $200 to $400 - a ZigBee or Z-Wave controller is typically $50 to $100. So when looking at WiFi bargains, add a couple dollars. If it's still cheapest, then fair enough.
8 - WiFi devices are often harder to install. This potentially includes YAH (Yet Another Hub) or YAA (Yet Another App), flashing the bios to avoid the prior, entering the WiFi password, and/or setting a dedicated IP. If you have decent security practices, it becomes yet more difficult with the potential for setting up port forwarding, adding a firewall rule, and/or excluding the device from internet access. While that can apply to Z-Wave and ZigBee, it would only be for the hub/bridge (like the Hue hub, rather than an individual LifX bulb). See #3.
Note: This does not apply to re-flashed generic devices. 9 - Using (and/or integrating) WiFi devices can also be difficult (or outright impossible) with apps, custom drivers, or gawd forbid 3rd party cloud servers going through IFTTT to a 5th party cloud server.
Note: This does not apply to re-flashed generic devices. 10 - Every WiFi product that relies on a proprietary app or cloud service will basically die if the app/service is ever discontinued. They can also change or limit functionality on a whim. I've had devices that became useless because of an "update" that killed functionality I relied on.
11 - WiFi devices can have hidden maintenance headaches should you need to change the network name, password, and/or router IP. Z-Wave can have a similar - but far more limited - issue where either the radio needs to replicate the network id, or devices need to be "excluded". ZigBee has no equivalent issues.
Note: This does not apply with re-flashed generic devices, at least any more so than with ZigBee or Z-Wave. 12 - WiFi devices will often be exposed to anyone on the WiFi network just by downloading an app, so after having a few too many, Uncle Ralph could think turning the lights and sprinklers on and off is a real hoot. Setting a guest WiFi password is easy enough, but it's not something most people do. ZigBee and Z-Wave are obfuscated behind the controller, and it's doubtful Uncle Ralph has ever heard of SmartThings, let alone all the other better options.
Note: This does not apply with re-flashed generic devices. 13 - It's easier to switch control platforms with ZigBee or Z-Wave devices such as from Hubitat Elevation to Home Assistant. Although it can be very difficult to port a lot of devices and automation rules, at worst it's a repetition of having added them to begin with. The equivalent for WiFi of switching from Windows to Apple or from Android to iOS would often be impossible. While most people don't switch, home automation - while never future proof - should be built for the long term.
14 - For many it goes without saying that WiFi devices and batteries don't mix well. Most WiFi devices will need to be plugged-in. I suspect (YMMV) that most people will find some use where that doesn't work, and they either compromise, or... they use ZigBee or Z-Wave. A mixed-protocol system isn't inherently terrible, but despite all of its flaws, the only real strength WiFi has [for home automation] is sometimes being a little cheaper (and, although usually inferior to mesh, longer range). Note: For those who looking at flashing generic WiFi, all of #1, 2, 5, 6, 11, and 14; and some of 3, and 8 apply. Anyone bitch-posting, be sure to include the following information: 1 - Price of your WiFi router(s), 2 - # of WiFi networks you have, 3 - Number of home automation devices you have, 4 - How many years you've used them, and 5 - Total number of hours flashing, modifying, connecting and troubleshooting home automation devices, including research time (but exclude physical installation, scripting automation, etc.) [link] [comments] | ||
| Looking to set up LED light strips for the first time, got a few questions Posted: 06 Mar 2021 09:03 PM PST I'm looking to put up some LED light strips in my room on a few places: -Behind my TV -Behind my bed's headboard -Behind my dresser which I low-key partially turned into a desk Each of these is a fair distance apart from each other. I'm planning to get a 16 ft. WI-FI, Google/Alexa, Music Sync light strip from Amazon. From what I measured, 16 Ft should be able to cover everything. I'm wondering if I'd be able to cut and use the length of the strips for all three places and if possible how I'd go about that. Or if I'd need to buy 3 separate strips for each location. I figure I need a separate power supply for each and that I'd need to buy separate connectors to put it all together. I have tried installing light strips before about a year ago but I haven't gone too deep for it. I found it quite difficult so I gave up but now I'd at least like to give it another shot. Who else here has set up light strips? How easy or difficult was it for you? Sorry if this may be vague or not have enough info but if anything just ask. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 06 Mar 2021 02:02 PM PST | ||
| Posted: 06 Mar 2021 09:59 PM PST Moved into a new house, upgrading the lights with smart bulbs. This one is the only odd ball. Regular bulb included for comparison. Only writing says LR58060 120V40W. Thanks. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 06 Mar 2021 09:28 PM PST I'm looking for any type of smart lock that will let me know if the door has been opened. Something that can connect to my phone and send me a notification even when I'm far away. If this isn't the right place to ask, please direct me to a good sub to ask. Thank you! [link] [comments] | ||
| Auto switching between two heaters Posted: 06 Mar 2021 04:35 AM PST My home had two heaters, a propane heater and an electric heater pump. I would like to install a thermostat that can auto switch between the both of them, based on the outside temperature. For example if the temperature outside drops below 34 degrees i want the propane heater only to turn ON, and above that use the heat pump. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 06 Mar 2021 09:00 PM PST I have an amazon echo plus which has Zigbee, I wanted to control some lights in my room using Alexa. I'm not sure If I need to buy both the wifi switch and smart bulbs... Can someone please help me out. Thanks for the help. [link] [comments] | ||
| Any idea how to add a smart lock here? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 05:14 PM PST Hi everyone, I want to add a smart lock with a keypad on this door so Amazon delivery people can open it up and leave packages inside. This is a rental and I don't want to spent too much. Do you guys know if there are any lock that fit here and can replace this one? Best! [link] [comments] | ||
| Interconnected Home Automation with node red Posted: 06 Mar 2021 08:56 PM PST
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| Would a Shelly dimmer relay work to control the speed of an inline duct fan? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 08:50 PM PST I need to control the speed of an inline duct fan based on seasons, temperature differentials in different rooms, and thermostat status. I've been looking at various inline fans and seen a number of types:
Would a Shelly Dimmer work for some or all of these types of fans? If not that relay, is there another relay that would? I really don't understand how the various fan speed controllers work, like, are they lowering voltage or amperage? Are they pulsing on and off? Or, to take the question one level meta... if I got whatever the normal hardware that controls the speeds of these fans... could a shelly relay somehow control that? I know the relay can't physically turn a knob or flip a switch, but maybe it can feed the right voltage to the controller someow? I have no idea how those things work. [link] [comments] | ||
| Can Caseta bridge be used as a generic 433Mhz to Wifi bridge? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 05:03 PM PST I have a simple $20 wireless doorbell which appears to be 433 MHz. I am wondering if I should be looking at adding a Sonoff RF bridge or whether I could somehow use it to interface with Home Assistant running on Raspberry Pi, using the Lutron Caseta Pro Custom Component. Is there a way to monitor the output of the bridge to determine the device ID or whatever identifiers are required to configure the various devices so that I can catch the button press from the wireless doorbell? As you can probably tell from my vague language, I still haven't integrated the Caseta lighting system into my (new) Home Assistant system, and although I have some experience with 433Mhz integration with some other pro-grade building automation systems, I haven't yet played with 433Mhz and Home Assistant. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 06 Mar 2021 05:01 AM PST IntroductionHello everyone. In the near future I want to get started using my own device to control my Smart Home devices. I am mainly interested in getting rid of any external bridges and using only one device. I plan on using a Raspberry Pi but I am still deciding which software I am going to use. I am deciding between openHAB3 and Home Assistant. Devices I have and want to control and automateI am currently owning:
Devices I want to own:
ProblematicThe two most known platforms are openHAB and Home Assistant. I looked into many reddit threads and online forums to find out which one is suited better for me. The lack of information regarding the just released openHAB3 is a huge problem because I don't know how different it is to openHAB3 and how it compares to Home Assistant. Some people suggest to try out both but starting with one, deleting the entire setup and trying out the other one is an extreme effort IMO. I just want to get involved into one system. Google AssistantI really enjoy using Google Assistant to control my devices and the ones listed above and would like to to so with openHAB3 or Home Assistant. I know that there is a subscription fee for using Google Assistant with Home Assistant. This is one thing I really dislike. I know there is an option to to it yourself but you still need to pay for DynDNS and an SSL-certificate. On the other hand using Google Assistant seems to be completely free for openHAB. Is that true and can I really control all the added devices with Google Assistant? ZigBeeSince I want to use one hub/bridge I need to control other devices via ZigBee. I read a little about deconZ and zigbee2mqtt but don't really know how both of these services run on openHAB and Home Assistant. I'd like to hear your own opinion on whats easier to install, use and more reliable. AutomationsHow are automations handled in both openHAB3 and Home Assistant? Which one is easier to use or has a GUI to support the whole process? EndI'd really enjoy if people could comment on openHAB3 or Home Assistant and how they handled similar scenarios like me. Thanks to everyone in advance! [link] [comments] | ||
| Close-up Motion Sensor to detect a hand-wave gesture? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 04:52 PM PST I'd like to turn on my kitchen under-cabinet lights by waving my hand in front of some sort of close-up motion detector, and off again by repeating the same motion. Obviously this can't be a regular motion detector, as that would be triggered by any kind of motion, not just a close-up hand waving motion. Does any such close-up motion detector exist, perhaps as Zigbee or Z-Wave device? [link] [comments] | ||
| Possible Project: Converting a "dumb" ceiling fan into a "smart" fan Posted: 06 Mar 2021 07:51 PM PST | ||
| What is your favorite, or most unexpected, device or function? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 12:19 PM PST | ||
| How to make a BR30 flood blink with MQTT Posted: 06 Mar 2021 05:29 AM PST I have my garage door notifications working with Tasmota 433mhz and MQTT blinking a custom 826 IOT led. I'd like to have my ceiling light blink when the door opens. The light is currently using on a Caseta switch. Alexa, Wemo, and Kasa are also in around. One idea would be to use a Tasmota lamp device and a screw in flat ceiling led. Any other ideas? [link] [comments] | ||
| Using Sharptools is there a way I can pull up a specific feed within the Arlo app? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 08:13 AM PST So right now I can create a link to trigger to bring up the Arlo app which has all my camera's, to include my ring camera. What I want to do is create a rule whne the doorbell is pressed or motion is detected the Arlo app comes up and has the live feed. Right now I can trigger the Arlo app but I have to press play on the feed in order to see the feed. If that doesn't work is there a way I can bring up a feed running on a tinycam web server? I can have the feed in the dashboard but I want it to get blown up say when the doorbell is pressed or motion is detected. This is what I currently have to launch the app. I just dont know what else to replace to bring up a specific feed. intent:#Intent;launchFlags=0x10000000;component=com.arlo.app/com.arlo.app.main.MainActivity;end [link] [comments] | ||
| What are the pros and cons of Bluetooth vs. Wifi light bulbs? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 02:41 PM PST I have 2 echo dots, a few smart plugs (WeMo and something else?), a Wyze thermostat, and 1 Sengled bluetooth bulb, and I'm in a single story apartment. I'm wanting to get a bulb or two. I'm probably going with Sengled since they're one I know and they're on the cheaper end, but I noticed that there are some bulbs that run off of bluetooth and some on Wifi. What are the pros and cons to bluetooth bulbs or wifi bulbs? Someone told me a while ago that too many devices can slow down your wifi but I've never been able to find anything on that. Will bluetooth bulbs similarly muck up other bluetooth signals or are they a way to avoid the wifi traffic? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 06 Mar 2021 08:27 AM PST
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| (UK) Is the original Hive Hub Nano compatible with more modern products such as bulbs? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 05:11 AM PST My mum has the older small hub (the one with no buttons and the wifi looking image that lights up) and she wants to use hive bulbs. I've noticed that you can buy hubs with and without bulbs but the hub style is now different. Is an upgrade necessary to the new style hub to use more than just heating controls? [link] [comments] | ||
| Is there a smart thermostat that will report information to my smart relays? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 02:59 PM PST I'm designing a system that needs to know whether the heater is on or the cooler is on as well as the temperature upstairs and downstairs. I plan on using Shelly relays to turn some fans on depending on the status. Which fans get turned on is opposite depending on if the heater is on or the air conditioner is on. If I have a smart thermostat such as a Nest is there a way to get it to tell my Shelly (or similar) smart relay whether the heater is on or off and what the temperature it is reading is? If not a Nest then maybe some other smart thermostat? [link] [comments] | ||
| Anyone open up a lightify hub? Posted: 06 Mar 2021 08:27 AM PST I wonder what's in there, they are super cheap. Chances it has an esp82xx wifi and efr32 radio chip like the zbbridge... maybe 40%? :) [link] [comments] | ||
| This is agitating. Brilliant/Honeywell. Posted: 06 Mar 2021 01:11 PM PST I bought a Brilliant Control Wall plate/dimmer to try out. I have a Mitsubishi mini split HVAC system. Using Honeywell Red-Link for wifi control and thermostat connectivity. The Brilliant Control works with Nest thermostats Honeywell HOME thermostats , but not Honeywell TCC (red link). I have 5 of those ugly honeywell thermostats that need to be put away somewhere hidden. Any ideas would be appreciated. I set up a Home Assistant box, but never bothered to learn Linux. So it sits there. Processing img 57v5s8qo4hl61... [link] [comments] |
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