Home Automation Got a call to install a Lutron Connect Bridge at a client's house where I installed a whole home RadioRA2 system 6 years ago. Still the largest system to date that I've installed. |
- Got a call to install a Lutron Connect Bridge at a client's house where I installed a whole home RadioRA2 system 6 years ago. Still the largest system to date that I've installed.
- How to preserve some privacy when you're using a Google Assistant speaker
- Will too many wireless gateways within close proximity interfere with each other?
- Need help with a Hiccuping/short cycling problem with Nest-E Air conditioning and C wire installation
- Any way to monitor the state of a standard speaker?
- Crestron house - I have these light switches. If I got rid of the Crestron system for something I can manage without a dealer, is there a receiver that can control/program these switches?
- Dash Button Alternatives?
- Blank slate - looking for ideas for low cost whole house smart lighting
- Smart Ceiling Fan - Simplified with Sonoff FAN03
- MyQ connected garage opens spontaneously
- Any love for me here? Looking for Pi4 w/SSD case
- Examples of contact sensor to a refrigerator?
- Switchbot with Alexa and Nest / How-To Question
- Alexa Custom Skill Development
- Is there any way to use dimmer switches with smart lights at all?
- Blinded controlled by wired signal. Do they exist?
- Swimming pool pump flow rate monitor? Pool temperature sensor? (re: swimming pool automation)
- 4 way Zooz question
- Need help with freezer monitoring. 911 before wife leaves me!
- Power Zwave switch to remove it
- Retrofit an old security system to do home automation
| Posted: 22 May 2020 10:35 AM PDT
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| How to preserve some privacy when you're using a Google Assistant speaker Posted: 22 May 2020 09:32 PM PDT
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| Will too many wireless gateways within close proximity interfere with each other? Posted: 22 May 2020 02:46 PM PDT Will there be major wireless interference if I stuff two Philips Hue bridges, an Ikea Tradfri gateway and an ISY-994i into a single structure media panel (the plastic, wireless transparent type)? Will that overcrowd the spectrum? I am working on consolidating the zigbee components of my smart setup into something like a raspberry pi running the zigbee dongle, but until I get there, I'm tieing these four hubs into Home Assistant. Thanks for any and all advice. I'll post my final setup pics once the install is finalized. I'm dry-fitting everything now before I get crazy cutting drywall and running cable. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 22 May 2020 10:20 PM PDT I'm in a rental and installed a Nest E a few months ago, 4 wire unit(heating/cooling), no C wire. Worked great with the heat. Now that AC is going, while its running, it will hiccup a decent amount sometimes and change fan speeds as well, seemingly inefficiently, like a weird short cycle thing is going on but only while the AC is on. I'm slightly apprehensive to take on the task of a Common wire installation myself as it seems like I'll need to access the air handler and possibly run wiring through the wall, and I don't want to fuck something up since its a rental. Is calling someone going to be my best option or is this easier than I think it will be? The videos I found it seemed like it could be a bit convoluted. Or is there some other safe option? I've read about the plugin transformers but I've seen a couple people saying that that could be unsafe. I'm in the North New Jersey area in case there are any pros in my area on here. Photo of my wiring in case that's helpful at all: https://www.dropbox.com/s/9nkqb4wdih31b6u/Photo%20May%2016%2C%2002%2051%2045.jpg?dl=0 [link] [comments] | ||
| Any way to monitor the state of a standard speaker? Posted: 22 May 2020 09:30 PM PDT Is there some way, preferrably Z-Wave or HTTP, that can monitor a standard, dumb speaker and know if audio is being played through it? I was thinking of something that is inline with the speaker wire itself and can sense when power is being passed through it. Anything like this exist? I'd like to be alerted when my patio speakers are on as they are connected to the Zone B of my receiver. My receiver is connected to my network and I'm able to get input, power, etc information from it, but for whatever reason, I can't get the state of my Zone B output. I'm trying to avoid the speakers accidentally being left on and being a nuisance when I'm listening to something loud inside. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 22 May 2020 10:11 AM PDT
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| Posted: 22 May 2020 01:48 PM PDT I'm not sure if this is the right place, but I'm trying to setup something in Home Assistant that will schedule my dishwasher to turn on in the early morning using a smart plug. I was thinking of having a button I could press to do this, and if this were a few years ago I would have ordered a dash button from Amazon. Now these don't exist, is there anything similar that I can purchase which is fairly open, and doesn't require an app or bridge? I have a tile I was thinking I could use, but I don't want to rely on having to have the tile app, or even an account with them [link] [comments] | ||
| Blank slate - looking for ideas for low cost whole house smart lighting Posted: 22 May 2020 10:25 AM PDT Hello r/homeautmation! We're renovating our 3100 sq. ft. home and looking for suggestions on the best smart lighting solution. Consider it a blank slate, nothing in the ceiling to start with. We're planning on installing something like quantity 70 full size cans in the ceiling, currently the ceiling has nothing in it, so we have the opportunity now to find the best, low cost, future proofed solution. My thinking is that after the cans are in and wired to wall plates we can then have flexibility to upgrade the smart part of the solution as the technology develops... --> Is this a good idea? Can we/should we eliminate the need for hardwired cans? After the cans are installed, the current plan is to populate the cans with 70x Philips / Signify Wiz color smart lights at about $15 each with Kasa / TP-Link switches (basic and threeway) at about $18-$20 each. Bulbs and switches should cost about $1230. My electrician is suggesting Halo 6" full size cans (P/N: H750ICAT) at about $6 per can. Total hardware cost should be about $1650...so a lot, but thousands less than a Philips Hue solution would cost. (Plus Hue has a 50 light maximum per hub). Installation of the 70 cans is probably $3k-$6k depending on how time consuming it ends up being. So the lion's share of cost is getting the cans and wiring installed. Which brings me back to the same question, is it necessary to have cans installed, or is that old technology and now there is something reliable, easier, and lower cost? Assuming we need cans, the next set of questions is which smart components to start with. One concern I have is reliability of Wiz connection and app. Lots of mediocre / bad reviews. Would the right way to use this set up be to use the app/timer or voice to control the lights and to use the Kasa switches as a backup in case someone turns off the lights at the switch? We can also buy and use Wiz remotes in each room instead of wall switches, again depending on reliability of function. If the Wiz lights were turned off at the power source (wall switch) what are the concerns? Would I potentially need to reconfigure all 70 Wiz lights as some reviews suggest? What condition do the Wiz lights come back online? Last setting? I don't want a bunch of hassles with constantly trying to get the lights to work right when the majority of the time all we really need is dim-able white lights. But color and voice and everything else smart could be convenient and cool. Here's some part ID's and links: 5/6 in. 65Watt Equivalent Color & Tunable White Dimmable Wi-Fi Wiz Connected Remodel Recessed Downlight LED Kit https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-5-6-in-65Watt-Equivalent-Color-Tunable-White-Dimmable-Wi-Fi-Wiz-Connected-Remodel-Recessed-Downlight-LED-Kit-4-Pack-555623/310804009 H750 6 in. Aluminum LED Recessed Lighting Housing for New Construction Ceiling, T24, IC Rated, Air-Tite (6-Pack) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-H750-6-in-Aluminum-LED-Recessed-Lighting-Housing-for-New-Construction-Ceiling-T24-IC-Rated-Air-Tite-6-Pack-H750ICAT-6PK/204992455 Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4Ghz WiFi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, UL Certified, 1-Pack (HS200), White https://smile.amazon.com/Interruptor-inteligente-Wi-Fi-Kasa-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_8?crid=35VZ4D3369J2W&dchild=1&keywords=kasa+smart+light+switch+3+way&qid=1590164424&sprefix=Kasa+Smart+Light+Switch%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-8 tl;dr - Blank slate, nothing in ceiling, want smart recessed lighting - what would you do for a low cost, highly reliable, future proof, easy to install and operate solution for quantity 70 recessed lights? [link] [comments] | ||
| Smart Ceiling Fan - Simplified with Sonoff FAN03 Posted: 22 May 2020 08:19 AM PDT TLDR: Purchased a Minka Aire fan and was able to get Sonoff FAN03 working by using the caps that were included in the fan wall slider switch. I now have a smart fan that works great for "relatively" cheap. My living room ceiling fan recently died. I was about to start a project to install downlighting and was looking for an excuse to replace the ceiling fan. Could I have fixed the fan? Probably.. Did I want to fix the fan? No. I started the search for a new ceiling fan. I wanted something that had a modern design that could be automated without the use of proprietary cloud-based control and be integrated with HASSIO. I have enough of the different cloud-based automation apps and am not a fan of losing connectivity to devices if the internet goes down or data mining that a lot of manufactures do. I didn't find any smart fans that met my requirements so I looked at alternative solutions. The Sonoff FAN03 looked like a great solution, however, it has issues with not being designed for the US. The capacitors are not large enough and therefore have given many people issues with fan speeds being wonky. I went online and saw various posts/videos mentioning to purchase larger caps to replace on the Sonoff FAN03. I purchased a Sonoff FAN03 and a few of the popular replacement caps with the intent of "figuring it out". For a ceiling fan replacement I decided to go with a unit that didn't have a light (didn't need with the downlights) and didn't have a remote ( didn't need with the FAN03). I ended up purchasing Minka Aire Roto. However, this fan spawned many questions.. It is a four-speed fan. Would it work with the Sonoff IFAN03? Would my best guess at replacement caps work with this model? We shall see.. The fan arrived and contained a wall slider switch to control the fan. I removed the box of the slider switch and saw two large capacitors. Hmmm.. I removed the two caps (7uF and 4uF) and soldered them in the FAN03. Afterward, I took the optional step of flashing the FAN03 with Tasmoto. In order to test, I had an old extension cord with one end chopped off to test various projects. I hooked everything up and voila! It worked! Each speed on the FAN03 works great. I now have a relatively cheap smart fan that works locally and looks great! I am posting this because I could not find a clear source online on whether or not the Sonoff FAN03 would work in my situation. I hope this helps someone. Side note - I ended up moving my fan over to the center of the room. The contractor that installed the fan mount when the house was built was evidently high or drunk (or both). Ignore the sheetrock cut out as I will be patching it this weekend. Next step will be programming HASSIO for some automation. :) [link] [comments] | ||
| MyQ connected garage opens spontaneously Posted: 22 May 2020 08:54 AM PDT Has anyone using MyQ for their garage had it open with what appears to be no human interaction? I am wonder if it is a fault in the system, someone has our code or something other. Is there a way to see what triggered the opening? [link] [comments] | ||
| Any love for me here? Looking for Pi4 w/SSD case Posted: 22 May 2020 05:11 PM PDT | ||
| Examples of contact sensor to a refrigerator? Posted: 22 May 2020 09:24 AM PDT I wanted but a contact sensor for my refrigerator. Two purposes I want to achieve.
So I have been thinking, there will be a gap between. So If you can kindly share some pictures of your setup for refrigerator and is there something can be achieved beyond what I was thinking to do? [link] [comments] | ||
| Switchbot with Alexa and Nest / How-To Question Posted: 22 May 2020 10:49 AM PDT I have two Switchbot's working just fine turning on my portable air conditioners. I have the Switchbot Hub Mini and can control each through Alexa. But what I want to do is to have an automation (either via Alexa Routine, a SmartThings Routine, a SharpTools.io rule, Tasker, IFTTT, mix/match, I don't even care at this point) so I can have the Switchbots turn on my portable air conditioners when the Nest thermostat room temperature rises above a certain temperature. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] | ||
| Alexa Custom Skill Development Posted: 22 May 2020 12:29 PM PDT I am a web developer and am exploring the Alexa skill development space. Is anyone here doing that or does anyone know any companies that would be open to experimenting with this? I'm open to provide a chunk of free development time with someone to create a pilot or beta skill or a proof of concept. Wondering if anyone might have any interest in something like this. [link] [comments] | ||
| Is there any way to use dimmer switches with smart lights at all? Posted: 22 May 2020 10:03 AM PDT I really want to put smart lights in my house, but we have expensive dimmer switches all over the place. I don't want to replace the switches. When I do put hue lights into the sockets, when I mess with the colors, they sometimes flicker or turn into strobe lights. This is with the dim at full power. The link below is what we have. Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Blinded controlled by wired signal. Do they exist? Posted: 22 May 2020 10:21 AM PDT Hey fellow enthusiasts, I know this question was asked in a post about a year ago (re Poe powered blinds), but as we know a lot has happened in a year for home automation in general. I am looking/hoping to find some blind motors powered (Poe) by - and controlled over CAT cable. If not Poe, then a motor that is wired for power but also is able to be controlled over a wired signal. Does this exist? Or will I need to start my own project? I am doing a project on a very big house and don't want to spend $2000 on 6 diffeent RF transmitters (to control the blinds wirelessly. edit: just to clearify... my main goal is to find wired CONTROL. I can always hard wire a DC connection to power the blinds, we are opening the walls so its no issue. I want to be able to run wires that will controll the position of the blinds. [link] [comments] | ||
| Swimming pool pump flow rate monitor? Pool temperature sensor? (re: swimming pool automation) Posted: 22 May 2020 12:49 PM PDT Does anybody know of anything I can use to remotely monitor my swimming pool temperature? Also, I'm not sure if this is even useful to know, but can I somehow monitor the pump flow rate to make sure water is flowing correctly without any blockages, etc? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 22 May 2020 12:27 PM PDT I think it just hit me but since this is the first 4 way one I've ran, I thought I'd ask since I'm not at the switch. What is happening is that the smart switch can control everything but the others can only control on/off if the lights are already on. Already have it hooked up to ST and it works via voice. I know I did not the second neutral to the switch and just want to ask if that will cause the situation I described. If not, I'll get some pictures when I get back at it tonight. Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Need help with freezer monitoring. 911 before wife leaves me! Posted: 22 May 2020 08:41 AM PDT Hey all. We had a horrible mistake happen today and someone left the breast milk freezer door cracked open and we lost some of that liquid gold that moms get to make and store. This was an emotional loss and we want to make sure it doesn't happen again. To prevent this, I'm buying a freezer alarm, but I want to take that further and have a WiFi connected sensor that will tell me if the temp goes above 15 degrees F and can push that info to my phone if we're on vacation. What solution might you recommend? I don't have a smart things hub, and those sensors only seem to go to 32 degrees anyway, so not good for a freezer. Best options I'm seeing is the "SensorPush" sensors which are the "Amazon's Choice" option... but they're Bluetooth only unless you buy the Gateway which enables WiFi for another $100... the total for that would be $150 to get a single sensor in my freezer with WiFi capability which just seems absurdly high to me. Thoughts? I appreciate any help or advice you might have. Thank you! [link] [comments] | ||
| Power Zwave switch to remove it Posted: 22 May 2020 12:09 PM PDT I have a couple GE dimmers and fan controllers that I took out when I moved but didn't remove them from my smartthings hub. Is there a way to power them without connecting them to the house wiring so i can disconnect them from my hub? [link] [comments] | ||
| Retrofit an old security system to do home automation Posted: 22 May 2020 08:18 AM PDT Hi Everyone, Ive played around a lot with home made automation systems with Raspberry pi and adruino boards and Ive been able to hack together something that works for my house. However a lot of friends have existing systems that they want to upgrade to be able to do home automation, these guys arent very tech savvy. The systems they have today were probably built around 20-30 years ago and they are security panels in metal cans. Honeywell, Interlogix, DSC. Im thinking of starting a business to get these guys upgraded. What is a good start? Any input is welcome. [link] [comments] |
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