Home Automation I got Innr E27 today, but I have not been able to pair it to Hue, ideas? Should it even light up with RGB in the start? |
- I got Innr E27 today, but I have not been able to pair it to Hue, ideas? Should it even light up with RGB in the start?
- "STITCH" window sensors -- Did I make a mistake or can I salvage them?
- Soundsync 0.3 is out: compatible with Airplay speakers, less bugs, lot of optimizations and a new landing page
- Looking for recommendations for a security camera system.
- Inovelli blacks can't connect
- Ideas for automating reducing bass on speakers?
- Door open announcement
- ESP8266 NodeCMU not lighting WS2812b strip up. Need some help figuring out why.
- Wink is dying, now what?
- Not sure where to ask this.... Having trouble with echo dots and having multiple users within a household
- Clarification on switches
- 4 Months Later: Homeseer 4 users, how's it going?
- Central Vac Installer Messed up.
- Xiaomi Smarthome app issue
- Recessed Angled Smart Lights
- Looking for Smart Bulb + Wireless Switch Options
- Zigbee or Zwave for motion and door sensors?
- Geekworm? More like a can of worms (rant)
- Ecobee3 lite Install
- MyQ garage door opener connected to WiFi via PC, can't add in app, won't set up in app.
- Best way to turn on closet light when door opens?
- dimmer switch causes noise
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 03:50 PM PDT
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| "STITCH" window sensors -- Did I make a mistake or can I salvage them? Posted: 13 Aug 2020 08:00 PM PDT I bought two used 2-packs of window sensors, Monoprice STITCH. The monoprice app is like a literal rip-off of Smart Life. I have trouble connecting them to the monoprice app, I've yet to successfully connect them to the Smart Life app. Is there any way I can salvage these or should I return them and look for a different device. My end goal was automating turning off mini-splits (through an IR blaster) when window are open. https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07GQBK7VY/ These are what I got. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 03:59 AM PDT | ||
| Looking for recommendations for a security camera system. Posted: 13 Aug 2020 09:28 PM PDT Hi. I'm looking for a security camera system for my garage and front door. The garage is dry but the front door camera (unless it were maybe a peephole camera) would feel the weather. I'm Mac/iPhone-based and would like a system that I can monitor from both my phone and laptop. Don't need a dedicated mini-monitor, like I see some systems have. I don't even need the cameras to be the same brand, so maybe it's a software solution I'm looking for ...? I'd like to be notified when the garage cam picks up movement, but the front door cam notifies only when someone rings the doorbell. Thanks in advance for anything you think I should check out ... or avoid. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 08:37 PM PDT I've had some issues on general as I build out my zwave setup. My latest iteration is 3 - inovelli black dimmers in a 3 way setup with ge-addons. Existing is a single pole ge dimmer and a dome water leak sensor. Zwave radio is nortek stick not zigbee and zwave just zwave. Running on rpi3b hass.io So the odd behavior is: I have 1 inovelli that's about 15 feet away from the hub, it connects everything's fine. I have a second in the gang next to it.. can't connect always shows out of range when doing the test. My third is at the top of the stairs directly above the hub, hub is in closet under stairs, and it also shows out of range. However this switch somehow connected and shows in home assistant even though after the node addition the switch was red ie fail.. home assistant shows good connection on it except it can't actually control the switch.. Yikes. So I've suspected my zwave stick, does that seem reasonable or are the innovellis really the issue. I've factory reset them.. I've removed node ie excluded but that fails too I'm kind of lost. I thought zwave had good range but I can't muster 15-20 feet.. [link] [comments] | ||
| Ideas for automating reducing bass on speakers? Posted: 13 Aug 2020 07:28 PM PDT Its 2am and i need some help from you guys and gals. I live in an apartment building where noise travels easily and can annoy the neighbours. I can hear the guy upstairs sneeze, and we cheer(quietly) when we hear the bed upstairs stop squeaking so that should give you an idea of how much sound travels! I would stay up quite late at night and im looking at a way to automatically reduce bass after a certain time as I am aware sound is annoying them. Currently what we do right now is after 10 or 11ish we have to have the sound at a ridiculously low level, or unhook the soundbar(so it only uses tv speakers) to be good neighbours.. we are not loud but the neighbours will complain over anything.. i wont go into it cos its more /r/PublicFreakout material :) But this process is manual and i forget to do this 95% of the time and the neighbours remind me to lower the volume by stamping on the floor in a version of morse code I have not encountered before. I am pretty sure lowering bass will sort this as I played music at regular levels, mid equaliser, 30% volume and i can hear it outside our front door. With bass set low it cant be heard at all. i have a basic setup and am open to change, i will go incredibly complicated just as long as it works.. . i have already downgraded from a full surround...to a simple soundbar if i cant solve this do i go back to using.. tv audio at 10x treble :D I really fell like there is a simple solution that I am missing. current usage:1- phone cast -> mi android box (chromecast built in) -> hdmi -> tv ->optical-> soundbar or.. 2- mi android box using apps directly -> hdmi -> tv ->optical-> soundbar - soundbar has aux, optical, bluetooth. its a bose solo 5 ideas I have so far, all are ridiculous: - PI with infrared to send the signal the remote control would send to lower bass. cant guarantee it will work unless I put the sender right in front of the soundbar. it would be an eyesore for the missus, unless i put it actually inside the soundbar, but that could block the remotes signal. - swap from optical to analog to the soundbar, then have relay switches that make the audio go through a capacitor to reduce bass. - PI bluetooth in the middle device, somehow reduces bass then sends to soundbar. but audio lag? - since its playing from an android box can we change it here? my last experience with hacking audio on android involved rooting and adding a ton of xposed framework addons.. The mi box works so perfectly I wont experiment with roms as its our main source of tv and music so i cant have it offline or i risk hearing high decibel tones from my other half. - just get rid of the soundbar and go back to the tv audio with 10x treble. sell the soundbar. someone might say just move apartment but where I am is At the end of the day i wish to sort 2 things - reduce bass or hope neighbours above go deaf - find a use for the multiple rasperry pi's, relays, wemos d1's , and about 30+ sensors ~ | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 07:06 PM PDT Hey guys, i have a smartthings multipurpose sensor on my door, is there a way I can make Google announce when the door opens or closes? [link] [comments] | ||
| ESP8266 NodeCMU not lighting WS2812b strip up. Need some help figuring out why. Posted: 13 Aug 2020 12:53 PM PDT My psu is rated for 5V DC, 3A. I can connect to my ESP8266 using the WLED app. However, none of the LED lights turn on. I flashed my NodeCMU with WLED 0.9.1. My NodeCMU is connected to a personal router with no internet connection. This is because my internet connection is provided by my landlord and devices like Google Home and Alexa do not work with my landlord's router, presumably due to firewall settings. I tried setting my NodeCMU up with my landlord's router and I could not find it, but I can find it when it is set up with my personal router. I have made sure the wiring is correct - D4 to Data in, Ground to ground, and 5V to 5V. My LED lights are 5m long, 30 LEDs/m, so there are a total of 150 LEDs. They are IP65 waterproof (if it matters), supplied by BTF-LIGHTING. I am stumped as to why my lights do not turn on, they feel warm when idle as well, which makes sense as my LED strips draw power when idle. I was very excited to experiment with this, can someone help me out? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 06:18 PM PDT With Wink struggling to stay alive, I'm abandoning ship. With Hampton Bay lights that worked with Wink -- where should I go next to make these wifi lights work? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 08:58 AM PDT Sorry if this is the wrong sub but this one seems to have the most knowledge. We have echo dots throughout our house for basic automations and for some music playback. The issue comes to multiple users. My wife uses pandora and has a profile while I use Spotify and have a profile as well. We share a the amazon prime account. The thing that has pissed me off since day one is that if the echo is in my wife's profile and I ask it to play something (even if I specify Spotify) it will pull from her pandora. There's no way to really check what profile It is in and so it just becomes a frustration of pausing the music, telling it to switch accounts, and then starting over? Am I missing something? I don't see the point in having it recognize your voice if it does this. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 10:22 AM PDT Sorry if this is a stupid question. I have wired a 3 position switches, let's call these switches A and B. Questions: Would any of this change with either zigbee or zwave? [link] [comments] | ||
| 4 Months Later: Homeseer 4 users, how's it going? Posted: 13 Aug 2020 12:07 PM PDT Quick and simple; HS4 Users, now that HS4 is a released product (and into the mid 4.#'s) How's it treating you? What was your migration like? /u/HomeSeerMark can always chime in as well as to what they're seeing. [link] [comments] | ||
| Central Vac Installer Messed up. Posted: 13 Aug 2020 03:17 PM PDT We had someone install our central vacuum and it seems that one of the low voltage wires he ran through the wall is broken so a wall mounted vacuum will not trigger the vacuum power. Is there any zigbee/zwave based solution to where I could remotely trigger a circuit to be completed? I have some aqara buttons coming in and I'd need something to toggle the current going to the vacuum trigger.. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 01:38 PM PDT Hey! Any xiaomi users here? Is anyone else having an issue with the xiaomi smarthome app on iOS 12.4.8 on iPad? Every time I click into the app, it says loading but then quickly quits. I've tried deleting and reinstalling several times. Any ideas? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 01:28 PM PDT So far the best value and option I've seen are the Philips. Much like another poster* I need to angle them, but I don't need them to move all the time. Just focus them at time of install. Has anyone angled a set of recessed lights that are not gimbal? And made it look nice. I'm struggling to find examples online. Also, open to other lights that change colors as well.
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| Looking for Smart Bulb + Wireless Switch Options Posted: 13 Aug 2020 07:22 AM PDT Hi Everyone, I have an interesting set up. I live in an older home (1960's wiring) in which many rooms do not have a built in light source/junction boxes. If there are switches in the house, they control a nearby outlet. For this reason, I have really enjoyed using Feit Lightbulbs from Costco around the house. The only issue is that I miss having physical switches. I'm considering the Philips Hue line, but I know that it's a controversial pick. Because of my wiring, I can't purely add Zigbee smart switches to control "dumb" bulbs. Hue seems like a good option because the bulbs themselves are smart, and work with Alexa (our in house automation hub), AND they have good accessories like the wireless switches that you tape onto your wall. Researching hasn't led me to many reliable options for this, as I think it's somewhat of a unique scenario to want both smart bulbs and switches. Are there more affordable options other than Hue in the regard? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments] | ||
| Zigbee or Zwave for motion and door sensors? Posted: 13 Aug 2020 11:05 AM PDT Should I go with zigbee or zwave for motion and door sensors? The most important factors is reliability and as maintenance free as possible, cost is not a factor, I'd rather pay more for quality than spend time troubleshooting or changing batteries. Hardwiring is not possible in my case. All I'm looking for is to automate my lights for motion. Originally I used Eve motion sensors with homekit but found them to be slow and shortcuts is less than ideal for my complex automations. I hear zigbee has better battery life but the new 700 series zwave is supposed to improve - although there's not many devices out in the wild. Up until now I have been leaning towards zwave because I like the recessed door sensors and that zwave seems to be stricter on implementation which hopefully translates to more reliability but I keep reading that battery life is way better with zigbee and motion sensors are faster (no personal experience on that). Eventually I'd like to integrate an alarm system and that's it, trying not to fall to far down the rabbit hole so it's really a specific use case. I would really appreciate your input here as I'm building out a new system with Home Assistant and Lutron caseta, not sure which platform to invest in. [link] [comments] | ||
| Geekworm? More like a can of worms (rant) Posted: 13 Aug 2020 10:04 AM PDT Hi We all love RaspberryPi boards and use it in automation scenarios. As it happens Geekworm has an interesting collection of add-on boards, that you may or may not be tempted to get! Unfortunately, I would advise to stay clear unless you like gambling. My recent purchases were faulty, I was bullied into getting new products to get replacements and ended up flat out "we wont reply to you anymore" way to deal with a customer. So if you were thinking about getting some of their interesting products, consider yourself warned! https://notenoughtech.com/raspberry-pi/geekworm-more-like-a-can-of-worms-x829-sata-board/ I'm in the process of AliExpress disputes due to their stalling tactics. Wish me luck! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 09:52 AM PDT Ecobee3 lite Hello everyone. I am looking to install a smart thermostat on my unit and have a question, the unit is a Trane XR80. Is this thermostat compatible? All answers point to yes and that I need to install a C wire which isn't a big deal. I'm questioning myself because when I popped the cabinet on the unit open I found what I'm guessing is a resistor or something running from the W to C ports. Do I proceed as normal with this there, or what should I do? The Ecobee will be replacing a basic 4 wire Honeywell thermostat. Thanks in advance. Please click the link to see what I am talking about. Trane XR 80 [link] [comments] | ||
| MyQ garage door opener connected to WiFi via PC, can't add in app, won't set up in app. Posted: 13 Aug 2020 09:41 AM PDT Have a liftmaster garage door opener with wifi. When I open the app, it finds the opener, connects to it, and then immediately disconnects, displaying an "oops lost connection" message. So, I tried forgetting my home wifi and forcing the connection to the door openers network, which brings up a "Connecting to Device" screen that will stall indefinitely. I then successfully added the opener to the wifi with a PC, which provides me with the serial # to add it. However, the app only provides options of connecting directly to the opener as a new set up, instead of adding a device already on the wifi. Does anyone have a solution to any of these issues to get it working? I've redownloaded the app to the exact same issue. Alternatively, I have considered smashing it into a thousand tiny pieces and flushing it down the toilet. [link] [comments] | ||
| Best way to turn on closet light when door opens? Posted: 13 Aug 2020 07:23 AM PDT OK, first off, I know this has been asked a lot here, and apologies. But I feel most of the other questions were either many years ago (and technology might have changed) or in a situation slightly different than mine. I have a few closets that I need a light to turn on when the door is opened. The light is presently just a pull-chain in the ceiling or wall; nothing else. I don't want to integrate the door with any other home automation stuff (i.e. SmartThings is overkill). I just want something like a simple magnet switch to turn the light on. Tada! I found something like the Functional Devices (RIB) CLC212D15, which looks perfect, except for the retrofitting. I do have the electrical experience to get that working; I Just really do not want to demo out the existing junction box so I can install it. However, I am completely willing to wreck the inside of the door frame if necessary to install the sensor, as no one sees it. The lights are positioned in not-ideal positions for a motion sensor (one is on the same wall as the door). I think ideally there would exist a special socket I can screw into the ceiling socket that then connects via low voltage wiring to any magnetic alarm switch. Barring, that, something that wirelessly turns such a socket on/off. I could also easily replace the pull chain with a new light fixture, if necessary. Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 13 Aug 2020 06:13 AM PDT I am looking to replace a new dimmer switch for the light bulbs (6pcs) because it causes noise to the amplifier. If I replace another better dimmer switch will the noise disappear? [link] [comments] |
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