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    Home Unlabelled Home Automation This light turns on any time I'm in a meeting so my husband knows when he can pop in for a chat!

    Home Automation This light turns on any time I'm in a meeting so my husband knows when he can pop in for a chat!

    January 04, 2021

    Home Automation This light turns on any time I'm in a meeting so my husband knows when he can pop in for a chat!

    This light turns on any time I'm in a meeting so my husband knows when he can pop in for a chat!

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 02:38 PM PST

    How does the remote control work? Explained

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 07:06 AM PST

    How does the remote control work? Explained

    Hi, I am CTO at LOOKin Remote. This is a universal Wi-Fi+IR smart home control.

    For the last 3 years we have been working with IR signals every day.

    And all this time we learn something new.

    When we start working with new clients, make posts about our product or hiring new employees, we see interest in how IR remote control works.

    Let's find out how it works... Let's go!

    When you point the TV remote control at the TV to watch your favorite movie, and press the button on the remote, the IR diode in the remote starts to emit a signal, and the IR receiver on the TV receives the same signal.

    IR diode is just a light bulb that glows in infrared light in the invisible spectrum for us. Therefore, for simplicity of description let us represent the IR diode, which is remote from the air conditioning or television simply flashing light.

    https://reddit.com/link/kqaggm/video/oy64j68pyb961/player

    Converting light to numbers

    But how to turn on the TV with the help of an IR lamp?

    In the TV remote control there is a transmitting IR diode, and in the TV itself there is an infrared receiver that can read the flashing of the IR diode in the remote control.

    Almost any command transmitted by the remote control is a set of binary data - 1 and 0. The remote control sends the command to the TV "turn on" - the TV turns on, sends a command to increase the volume - the TV increases the volume.

    Each such command is just a collection of 1 and 0. Each manufacturer determines the list of commands himself, relying only on his own idea of how it should be. Nevertheless, there are certain standards that, in our experience, very few follow.

    For example, for most common Samsung TVs, the switch on code is 0xE0E040BF.

    This is the hexadecimal representation of the command.

    Digging deeper, the command looks like the following set of 1 and 0:

    11100000111000000100000010111111

    Now let's take a look at how this code looks in a graph.

    The red curve in the upper part - the light (IR diode in the Samsung TV remote control) is on, the red line in the lower part - the light is off.

    ​

    Pic 1: This is how the signal to turn on Samsung TV looks like on the graph

    Most computing devices operate 1 and 0.

    Perhaps the only reliable way to encode 1s and 0s when transmitting over IR is to encode them using the duration of when the IR diode (our conventional light bulb) is lit and pauses. Distinguish between IR protocols with a leading zero and a leading one, but let's leave that out of the narrative brackets.

    Specifically in this protocol (NECx2) for Samsung TVs 1 and 0 are encoded as follows:

    • Pulse (light is on) 600 μs and then a pause (light is off) at 600 μs is 1
    • Pulse (light is on) 600 μs and then pause (light is off) at 1600 μs is 0

    Cleverly, right?

    Let's take another look at our graph and mark 1 and 0 on it:

    Pic 2: binary digits in a signal from a Samsung TV

    Summary: 0 and 1 are encoded only by how long the IR diode (light bulb) lights up and how long it doesn't.

    An attentive reader will ask "What then are these strange bursts on the left side of the IR signal on Pic1?" And here we naturally move on to the second part of the story - to IR protocols.

    The amazing world of IR protocols

    There are many different IR protocols in the IR world. I will not be wrong if I say that the most widespread IR protocol is NEC. Almost 100% it can be argued that you have a remote control at home that uses this protocol.

    But there are dozens of other protocols popular with home appliance manufacturers.

    How to distinguish them?

    The preamble helps with this, the initial code that determines which IR protocol is used. Some unique feature of the protocol.

    Seeing it, the receiver of the TV, Cable-Box or receiver understands - aha - the signal is most likely addressed to me and starts listening.

    For the NEC protocol family, the preamble consists of a period of 9000 µs when the IR-diode is on and then a pause (IR diode is off) of 4500 µs. For a signal from a Samsung TV, such a preamble is the glow of the IR diode with a duration of 4500 μs and then the same pause.

    If we begin to describe now all the existing IR protocols, the reader will quickly fall asleep, and I will never finish the story until a ripe old age. So let's take a quick look at the NEC family to digest the material.

    First there was the most canonical NEC IR protocol (now better known as NEC1), and the idea was good: in a 32-bit IR signal, the location was as follows:

    Pic 3: IR protocol NEC1 (image from Altium)

    That is, the first 8 bits are an address, something like device ID, then the same address in inverted form (for verification)

    Bits 16-24 are the command, then it is inverted.

    The idea was good and could lead to standardization, Address, for example, could be the type of device - TV, Cable-Box or something else, and the command could be an action, for example, "Increase volume" or "Turn on". But something went wrong ...

    https://reddit.com/link/kqaggm/video/s28i97yvyb961/player

    At first, 256 possible commands were no longer enough for some manufacturers and the NEC1x protocol appeared

    Pic 4: IR protocol NEC1 (image from Altium)

    And then the addresses of 256 values were no longer enough and such protocols as NECx2 began to appear (just the same is used in some Samsung TV models with which we began this story).

    There are such protocols as Denon, the Sony protocol family (often they have a feature that you need to transmit one signal at least twice with a given pause), Kenwood like NEC1 with add-ons, RC5, RC6 and many many others ...

    IR codes notations

    Raw

    Since IR transmission is simply "glowing" and "not glowing", then initially the simplest and most visual recording is a recording in the so-called raw form. Positive numbers - the IR diode is on, negative - not lit.

    An example of a raw recording of a signal from pic1:

    4570 -4420 620 -1610 590 -1640 620 -1610 620 -490 600 -510 590 -520 620 -490 620 -490 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 590 -520 620 -490 620 -490 620 -490 620 -490 590 -520 620 -1610 620 -490 600 -510 590 -520 620 -490 620 -490 620 -490 590 -1640 620 -490 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 600 -1630 620 -45000 4570 -4420 - preamble, protocol identifier 620 -1610 - binary digit 0 590 -1640 - binary digit 1 … -45000 - a final pause, the end of the transmission.

    Each next value changes its sign to the opposite, which is very logical.

    ProntoHEX

    But there are also alternative common recording methods, for example, the ProntoHEX format, in which the same signal looks like this:

    0000 006D 0022 0000 00AB 00AB 0018 003D 0014 003D 0018 003D 0018 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0018 0014 0018 0014 0018 003D 0018 003D 0018 003D 0014 0014 0018 0014 0018 0014 0018 0014 0018 0014 0014 0014 0018 003D 0018 0014 0014 0014 0014 0014 0018 0014 0018 0014 0018 0014 0014 003D 0018 0014 0018 003D 0018 003D 0018 003D 0018 003D 0018 003D 0014 003D 0018 06AE

    Everything is a little more interesting here, since the first 4 blocks are service ones:

    0000 - Signal characteristic, 0000 - new, 0001 - learned 006D - Carrier frequency of the IR signal (more on this in the next chapter) 0022 - Length of the one time burst (the initial action signal) 0000 - Length of the second burst (the repeat action, when holding down button)

    And then, block by block, the initial action signal and the repeat action signal are presented, calculated using a special formula.

    Command based notation

    An IR command can be recorded just like the command it carries.

    As with our example of enabling TV Samsung - 0xE0E040BF.

    In this case, be sure to indicate the protocol.

    Alternative notations

    Some manufacturers of smart remotes come up with their own schemes for recording IR signals, but they are very specific and are not the subject of this article.

    IR signal specifications

    Infrared Receivers and Transmitters have two very important characteristics:

    The carrier frequency

    The IR diode does not just glow with a solid light, it constantly turns on and off, just like LED lighting, by the way. It happens very quickly. One of the most common IR frequencies is 38 kHz, which corresponds to 38,000 blinks per second. This feature of operation allows the IR receiver to distinguish the signal from the remote control from external IR noise.

    A side effect is that if your remote control operates at a frequency of 40 kHz, and the receiver, for example, at 36 kHz, then everything will work closely, but already at a distance is not a fact. Moreover, if both the receiver and the transmitter are matched - they have the same frequency, then the operating range will be much better.

    The most common frequencies are 36 kHz, 38 kHz, 40 kHz. 56 kHz are extremely rare. There are also very rare ones, for example, Bang & Olufsen equipment operates 455 kHz.

    Duty cycle

    In fact, the duty cycle of the signal means the ratio of the duration of the glow of the IR diode to the pause after that. Remember, after all, that it lights up several tens of thousands of times per second? Here the duty cycle shows how long the pause is after that.

    Both of these characteristics are important for your device's remote to work well with it. When we talk about universal remotes, the duty cycle and signal frequency are not always known, so they almost always work a little worse. For example, they have a shorter operating range compared to the original remotes.

    Comparison of IR signals

    And now some more magic.

    Do you remember our signal from turning on the TV?

    4570 -4420 620 -1610 590 -1640 620 -1610 620 -490 600 -510 590 -520 620 -490 620 -490 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 590 -520 620 -490 620 -490 620 -490 620 -490 590 -520 620 -1610 620 -490 600 -510 590 -520 620 -490 620 -490 620 -490 590 -1640 620 -490 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 620 -1610 600 -1630 620 -45000

    So every time the TV receives it, it will receive it a little differently. Since we are talking about a large number of blinks and a very high frequency, errors are inevitable. Imagine that your friend is blinking a lamp, and you need to keep track of how long it was on with the help of a stopwatch. Each time you do this exercise, the numbers will be slightly different.

    For example, the preamble can be taken as:

    4570 -4420 … 4600 -4400 … 4610 -4410 … 4580 -4390 …

    And it's all one IR signal!

    Therefore, raw IR signals can never be compared by simple comparison. Digit by digit is sequentially compared, and if the difference between them does not exceed 15-25%, then it is considered that the signal matches.

    ProntoHEX partly helps with this, but it also uses rounding and you can't just take and compare two signals for identity.

    However, if the signal has already been decoded and is a ready-made command and protocol, then such a comparison is quite possible.

    And what happens if I hold down the button on the remote control and hold it for a long time?

    Surprisingly, in most of the protocols that we have encountered, one single command will be sent, and then periodically a short repeat signal. The frequency of sending the repeat signal depends on the protocol

    In the NEC protocol discussed above, the repeat signal looks something like this

    Pic 5: IR protocol NEC1 repeat signal (image from Altium)

    That is, if you pressed the volume up button, then an "initial message" is sent first, and then a short repeat signal every 10 times per second. And as long as you hold the button, the signal will repeat.

    The TV can react to this in an appropriate way: first, turn up the volume slightly, and after a few seconds, with higher values.

    Repeat signals differ from protocol to protocol, and in some it is not provided in principle, while you keep the button pressed - the "initial message" is simply repeated over and over again.

    Air conditioner remotes

    And if before that everything was pretty simple:

    • The «Switch on" button on the remote control is pressed and the TV turns on
    • You press the channel switch button - the channel changes to plus or minus
    • You press the HDMI input change button - the input changes

    Then in AC units everything is more complicated.

    All data is sent in one IR signal at once - temperature, operating mode, shutter position, fan, timers and many other service parameters.

    Moreover, quite often the signals from air conditioners are divided into several blocks with fixed pauses, and each block of the IR message is signed using a CRC (again, different for different protocols)

    But this is a completely different wonderful world.

    If you are interested in this publication, and my written English is not very terrible, gave me upvote and in January if article gets 1500 upvotes we will release an article on how IR works in Air Conditioners remotes 😊😁

    Thank you for attention.

    Write in the comments if you liked the article or it was not useful and give tips on what can be improved. Any feedback is appreciated.

    Dmitriy,

    CTO at LOOK.in Remote

    https://reddit.com/link/kqaggm/video/xx1un694zb961/player

    submitted by /u/CrowdedFuzzball
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    Recommendations for Cheap (high res) tablet to wall mount

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 09:02 PM PST

    Have spent some time on this but cant find any decent reccomendations. I assume most people just use an old tablet and turn it into a smart home wall hub. But i'm looking to buy something new or 2nd hand. Looking for ~10 inch android tablet to wall mount and for my dashboard. It would be good if it is at least 1920x1200 res. https://www.amazon.com/ANTEMPER-Octa-Core-Processor-1920x1200-Touchscreen/dp/B086X9DSQR/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

    Would something like this be suitable? Running sharptools for hubitat on it. Are these safe to leave plugged in and charging?

    Any solutions for a nice wall mount ?

    Thanks for any advice!!!

    submitted by /u/shift-del-enter
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    Does anyone have any experience with the Wyze Lock?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 06:28 PM PST

    August Lock and Home Mode

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 06:20 PM PST

    My August lock, after moving to my new condo, has trouble with Auto Unlock. I have recently discovered the problem lies in the fact when I return to my geofence, it doesn't switch to home mode so that when I walk up to the door, the Bluetooth unlocks it.

    Instead, I come home, park, wait in the lobby for the elevator, go up to the 4th floor, walk to my door then wait there for 15 seconds until my wifi gets involved and my app realized I'm home then it opens.

    Any work around to make my app recognize I'm home when I'm park so it knows to start checking for BT signal?

    submitted by /u/minkgod
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    Smart Outlets vs Smart Plugs?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 06:14 PM PST

    I've got a handful of smart plugs in use around my house, and am in the process of updating the wiring throughout my house and was wondering if anyone has actually gone through the work of actually installing Smart Outlets as opposed to just using Smart Plugs.

    I've seen some Zigbee Smart Outlets, but they're quite a bit more expensive than standard outlet + smart plug and am wondering if it's actually worth it.

    submitted by /u/chrico031
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    What is the issue with me and smart bulbs?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 07:17 PM PST

    I have tried like four different brands of smart bulbs, and they all flicker when I install them in my light socket, and will do so no matter which socket in my house I screw them into. I tried getting a smart switch, but it required three wires, and my box only had two. LEDs that are non dimmable don't seem to have this flickering problem for me. Is it possible for an entire house to not like smart bulbs for some reason?

    submitted by /u/U2F2ZU1lTG9hZE1l
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    Automated blinds (IKEA)

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 06:36 AM PST

    Are the IKEA blackout roller blinds (wireless battery) good for blinds and automation?

    If not does somebody else suggest something else around this price range

    submitted by /u/Eclipse8301
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    Limit hours a guest can view my cameras

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 03:53 AM PST

    Is there a way to limit the hours a guest can view my cameras? I'm a caregiver for my dad. I don't want to have him exposed to someone else due to covid. But I want to have a break sometimes and have someone else monitor him over my camera system.is there a way I can limit their hours of access? Is it secure enough to do what I'm thinking?

    I currently have eufy indoor cams. Was thinking to switch to blink minis but im open to other cameras too if these options don't work.

    submitted by /u/ocreedmore
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    New Google/Nest hub with Soli and Zigbee is in the works

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 08:33 AM PST

    Logitech Harmony Hub or other IR blaster for sending basic toggles via Alexa?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 06:34 PM PST

    Hi all,

    A year or so ago I bought a Harmony Hub with the intent to use it with Alexa to voice control the TV and a few accessories.

    While that technically works, I'm really put off by how it works using 'Activities' to roll through turning multiple devices on and off because it forces you to always use the Harmony for powering up/down. If I happen to walk by my soundbar and turn it on/off using the physical button, I've now screwed up the Activity as devices are out of sync.

    So I'm looking for an option that will let me ask Alexa to toggle a specific device, and it'll just send the 'power' IR command so it doesn't matter in what state it started. i.e., "Alexa, toggle the TV / turn on the tv / turn off the tv" could all be set to just send the power command irrelevant of what state it's actually in, or the state some app thinks it's in.

    Is it possible to do this with the Logitech Hub with any helper/bridge apps? I have a Synology NAS so I'm able to have that run something.

    (I started down the path of installing Home Assistant via Docker on my NAS since it seems to be able to send discrete commands through the Logitech Hub using an integration, only to find that getting Alexa working with HA either requires a monthly fee for HA Cloud or setting up an Amazon developer account and port forwarding, which I'd rather not do for such a simple purpose. There's also the HA Hue Emulation that works with Alexa but that doesn't appear to be available for Docker-ized HA installs)

    Or is there another well-received wifi-enabled IR blaster that could be used for this? I don't mind buying new reasonably-priced hardware if it works well and is flexible. I could always sell the Harmony.

    Note I have a technical background and I'm forced to do tinkering at work; so at home the closest to "It Just Works" I can get is worth more to me than some extreme diy option (i.e., not interested in rolling my own via a Pi with an IR blaster or something).

    Thanks all for any suggestions!

    submitted by /u/someones1
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    looking for a type of switch/lever combo

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 06:32 PM PST

    does anyone know what a two or more toggle switches controlled by a single lever or handle are called? also where the individual switches can be turned on or off without the use of the lever. thanks.

    submitted by /u/fordameemees
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    Powerline adapter with Harmony Hub

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 10:11 PM PST

    My Harmony hub is set up downstairs and I want to be able to use it to control a TV upstairs.

    My plan is to use a 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapter off the hub followed by a 3.5mm to cat5 adapter. This would then connect to powerline adapter which then runs upstairs. I would then connect the other powerline adapter to the cat5 adapter to 3.5mm. This would finally connect to an IR blaster so remote input can reach the hub.

    I don't have CAT 5 run in the house so thought this could be a possible solution. Not sure if Powerline adapters can carry the proper signal to get that IR blaster working upstairs though. TIA

    submitted by /u/Russ1525
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    Looking For Bluetooth Wall Outlet

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 09:21 PM PST

    I need an option for bluetooth on/off switch for an outlet, or just the outlet to turn off wifi and xbox for my kids. It can't be wifi for obvious reasons. I'm hoping for a simple app/widget that just turns on/off instantly. It can't plugin because then it could be removed.

    submitted by /u/hettinger
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    Cheap Smart Scale

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 12:26 PM PST

    Amazon is having a sale on their new smart scales. They are all $12, even the large one that can weigh up to 200lb. They are for automatically reordering items based on weight, but you can configure it to send a notification instead of reordering. There is plenty of potential for non-intended functionality here like notifying you when your pet's water bowl is empty, checking weight on a rain catch reservoir, etc.

    Has anyone used load cells as part of their home automation setup?

    submitted by /u/officer21
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    Automating rolling shutter with Shelly?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 03:01 PM PST

    Smart button presser for outlet reset button behind laundry machine

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 05:04 PM PST

    Every time our power goes out or I turn off the breaker, the outlet that my laundry machine is plugged into requires my wife or myself to pull out the stacked washer dryer far enough to reach in and hit the reset button. Is there any smart device that could push this reset button for us? I've seen some smart button pushers but they are mostly for light switches and I wouldn't think they are strong or precise enough.

    submitted by /u/jjjjjjjjjj125
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    Philips Hue humidity and power outlet?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 10:12 AM PST

    I have a dumb humidifier, and I want to turn it on and off based on the humidity level. Any recommendations? The huge does have an outlet, but I can't figure out the humidifier. Extra credit if it has a motion sensor and only works when I'm in the room.

    submitted by /u/EngineerVsMBA
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    Will the eufyCam 2C trigger the alarm in the HomeBase unit when it records human motion? Or will it just record and notify the owner without triggering any alarm in the HomeBase to scare the intruder?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 08:23 PM PST

    I plan to install this camera on my backyard, under a small roof, so it will be outside but semi-protected from the rain/wind. I thought about also installing the motion sensor but Eufy says it is not supposed to be used outside. Thanks!

    submitted by /u/niosurfer
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    Annke is a scam

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 02:25 PM PST

    I ordered 7 cameras from Annke during their black Friday sale. After 2 weeks I hadn't gotten my cameras and I contacted support. They eventually told me it was shipping on NYE and gave me a tracking number. I assumed it was enroute to me as UPS had it labeled "in transit". Assuming it was shipping I sat back and waited. It's now 1/4/2021 and UPS says they do not have the package. If I had known they were going to have a supply shortage I would not have ordered. Furthermore, they have been dishonest in coordinating the delivery of my cameras. Annke is not an honest company. Do not buy directly from them unless you want to gamble with your money.

    submitted by /u/outerdankness
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    Alternate Ideas for Presence Sensors

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 03:40 PM PST

    So I've got two SmartThings Arrival Sensors that I was using to track when the wife and I came and went from the house prior to migrating my home automation setup to Home Assistant. I made that move and track us now using our phones, whivch is a great experience so far, but now I have these two arrival sensors that work with the system, but I have no standard use for. Anybody have any good suggestions for alternate uses for these sensors?

    submitted by /u/deltaviper17
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    quick-firing motion sensors

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 03:03 AM PST

    I "upgraded" from trusty Lutron PIR occupancy sensor switches to Hubitat + Z-wave. The Lutron switches turns on the lights pretty much instantaneously and I guess I've been spoiled by that.

    The various Z-wave sensors I've tried so far (Fibaro, Zooz, Ecolink, etc) are all plagued with slow-firing response to motion. From reading discussion forums it seems most people are happy just to get 1~2s response time out of these. I don't think this lag is inherent to Z-wave because the lights respond pretty damn quick to my aeotec wallmotes.

    I'm guess this has something to do with trying to save power. If so they really should introduce hard-wire-able models which don't have to care about power consumption because this lag is getting really annoying and I'm having second thoughts about expanding the network through rest of the house.

    submitted by /u/Y0tsuya
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    Is it possible to use Ikea tradfri Gateway as a hub for non Ikea ZigBee devices?

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 03:04 PM PST

    I bought the tradfri Gateway and 3 wall sockets from Ikea a couple of years ago, and have been using them with Google home to control some lights, but I was wondering if I could do more? I recently bought a ZigBee temperature and humidity sensor from AliExpress and was wondering if there was a way of connecting it to the Ikea gateway? And if that works what else can I add to it? My goal is to have and read sensor information in various parts of the house pulling data such as temperature, humidity, movement, Co2, etc.. And eventually automate functions like lights, cameras, fans/ ventilation based on that data.

    I'm quite new to the whole process, so looking for information and resources to expand my limited knowledge.

    submitted by /u/sdezigns
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    Here's a Way to Set Personalized, Distinct Sound Notifications for Specific Events

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 02:45 PM PST

    For those of you who know about all of the home automation platforms supported on IFTTT and Zapier you can now pair these with Vybit (VIBE-it) to hear a sound that you record or choose for each event, e.g., a doorbell when the front porch camera is triggered, a door opening when the garage door is opened, or your voice saying what just happened.

    For those who are more tech savvy and know how to use webhooks, you can easily trigger your custom sound vybs (vibes) that way, see triggering vybs.

    Vybit on IFTTT

    Vybit on Zapier

    Vybit

    submitted by /u/flatirontek
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    Making a test board/Proof of concept.

    Posted: 04 Jan 2021 06:28 PM PST

    I'm considering doing a proof of concept for a home we are building. Making a small test board with a few test scenarios. Just a 4x4 piece of 1/4 plywood with everything mounted with surface mount boxes.

    1) a rasberry pi 4+ with a GoControl CECOMINOD016164 HUSBZB-1 (zigbee and z-wave)

    2) an red Inovelli switch and light

    3) an Inovelli red switch/dimmer and a Inovelli second switch on the same load to act and a three way switch.

    4) an Inovelli 4 in 1 Sensor

    5) an Inovelli Fan and light switch with a GDSTIME EC Cooling Fan 80mm x 80mm x 25mm AC 110V

    6) an Inovelli red switch not tied to a circuit (I'd like to be able to trigger an event that turns off multiple circuits)

    7) an assortment of Sengled bulbs used in the above circuits and a pair on dumb switches

    Purpose learn to set up the rasberry pi and work out wiring decisions before we build my house. Everything from the board will be repurposed once the house is wired.

    Things I might add POE speakers, OpenGarage or similar garage controller. Door sensor, LED light strip controller.

    Questions, anything I should add? What should I be wary of?

    submitted by /u/keithww
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