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    March 03, 2021

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    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 10:54 PM PST

    I've Gone Full Circle

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 06:33 AM PST

    We wanted to control the bedside lamp by voice so I plugged it into a smart outlet. We had a baby and voice control was waking the baby up. Using my phone to control it was getting annoying. Did I even think to just plug it back into a regular outlet? Nope. I hooked up an IKEA button to control the lamp that is right next to me...

    submitted by /u/Sybert1ger
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    Started on the road to automation

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 05:34 PM PST

    Help

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 04:47 PM PST

    So I recently purchased a new home and I wish to automate it. I have been doing a lot of research and well I am overwhelmed. I wish to use apple HomeKit, and would prefer a hub connection so only one device is on the WiFi instead of each individual device. I want to add smart light switches to 6 of my light switches. Two light switches have fan switches on them as well. Two switches also control the same light switch. Eventually I want to get a smart thermostat as well. Does anyone know a decent brand that could do all of this and won't break the bank account. Just looking for the switches and the hub to start, but the more smart devices the fall under the same hub would be preferred. I also don't want dimmers. Thanks !

    submitted by /u/ReverseProphet
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    Detailed Guide to Install a Smart HomeKit Connected Wi-Fi Gate Opener with Mighty Mule and Remootio

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 09:17 PM PST

    Detailed Guide to Install a Smart HomeKit Connected Wi-Fi Gate Opener with Mighty Mule and Remootio

    Below I detail my recent project to add smart control capabilities to my driveway gate. I have a 16ft tube gate at the top of my driveway which sits approximately 150ft from my house. There is no 120V power source where the gate is so my options were limited. After some trial and error, I solved the problem and created a very nice smart gate that runs on WiFi, integrates with HomeKit (kinda), and provides a status for the gate's position (open or closed).

    Remootio Packaging

    This project uses the Mighty Mule MM371W gate opener, but could be modified to use any other gate opener that is compatible with the Remootio v2 Smart Gate Controller.

    This project also assumes you are using HomeKit/HomeBridge. I degoogled so I will have no information on making this work with Google or Alexa. Remootio does provide some information in their Remootio Knowledge Base about using other smart home platforms.

    Project Goals:

    1. Be able to open and close my front gate from my smartphone.
    2. Integrate the smart gate controller with HomeKit to add it to scenes. Close the gate with my goodnight routine as an example.

    Project Requirements:

    1. Smart controller needed to be able to be powered from a 12V source. There is no 120V power source at the gate, only a deep cycle marine battery.
    2. Smart controller needs to be wireless to connect to my home network, Wi-Fi preferred because of the distance to the house.
    3. Smart controller needed to integrate with my Mighty Mule gate opener without too much fuss. Preferably no soldering or altering the control board. Plug and play preferred.

    Required Materials and Costs:

    Approximate cost of the above items: $658.97

    Small Items used that I already owned:

    • Large Hose Clamp
    • 2x Wire Nuts
    • 10-12x Zip Ties of different lengths

    Background & Motivation:

    Before beginning this project I had an older Mighty Mule gate opener installed at the top of my driveway. It opened and closed the 18ft. Tartar tube gate to restrict access to my property and keep my animals on the correct side of the fence. We used the standard Mighty Mule garage door openers and the accessory Mighty Mule wireless keypad to control the gate. For two years this worked great and met our needs.

    ​

    Processing img hvvtg3xnyqk61...

    The only real shortcoming with the setup was that there was no way to tell if the gate was open or closed without physically looking at it, at night this involved a flashlight.

    Over the past year we upgraded the house to a smart house with Hue lights, Wi-Fi dimmer switches, and Google Home Minis. A recent move to degoogle everything has replaced all Google devices with Apple HomePod Minis. All of our smart upgrades really made our dumb gate feel lackluster and at times a chore to deal with. So I needed to find a way to make it smart.

    Upgrading the Gate Opener:

    This project started off with the purchase of the Mighty Mule MM371W smart-capable gate opener thinking that it had the built in wireless capabilities. It did not. I had to purchase an additional wireless module, the Mighty Mule MMS100 ($119), which plugs into the control board of the MM371W. The MMS100 has a base station that goes inside your house and connects to your wireless network. It says it has a range of about half a mile to the actual gate opener where the Wi-Fi module is plugged into the control board.

    The MM100 satisfied my first goal of being able to open and close the gate from my smartphone. It also worked over Wi-Fi and didn't require a separate 120V power source. Lastly, it's made by Mighty Mule to specifically work with the new line of smart-capable gate openers. Since this checked all the boxes I decided this was a no brainer and the perfect solution.

    I bought the MMS100 and got it setup according to the instructions. After ten minutes I was ready to start pairing the base station to my phone with the Mighty Mule app. Here's where the fun ends. It doesn't work. Like not at all. The base station would not pair with the app because the server in the cloud it's trying to phone home to, isn't working. I took a moment to read the comments on the app from the App Store and they were enlightening. Hundreds of other people have been having the same exact experience for months. So, I abandoned this MMS100 smart controller and started hunting for another solution.

    Remootio, a Smart Controller with a Silly Name

    I did hours of searching and found this little device by a company called Remootio. Silly sounding name but the device also checks all my requirements. Uses Wi-Fi, doesn't need 120V, has instructions for integrating with the MM371W, and as a bonus it's compatible with Siri. Ordered it on Amazon and after a couple of days, it arrived.

    Installing the Remootio controller was pretty easy. It's really small, like less than 3" square and about an inch deep, which was small enough to fit inside the Mighty Mule MM371W control box making the project really clean. This was a total added bonus, I was expecting to have to mount a second housing to hold the Remootio.

    Installing the 12V to 5V Buck Module:

    I bought my Remootio from Amazon so I didn't see that Remootio has their own Buck Module. Remootio does offer a 12V to 5V converter for only $7 and it's a lot less bulky than what I used. I would recommend going that route because it cuts down on using the included power cable and reduces some bulk inside the MM371W control box.

    Remootio 12V to 5V Buck Module

    Since the Remootio works on 5V power, the 12V to 5V Buck Module will take power from my 12V Marine Battery and convert it into 5V that the Remootio can use. The Buck Module has black and red power cables to connect to the battery on one side and two female USB A ports on the other side. This is actually overkill because we only need one USB A port, but it will do.

    ​

    12V to 5V Buck Module

    I ran some spare 12AWG power wire from the battery up to the control box. I ran out of butt connectors so I used wire nuts and some electrical tape to get the Buck Module connected to the power lines from the battery. That's it for this module, once we get the Remootio installed we can plug the power cable into one of the USB A ports to turn the Remootio controller on.

    ​

    Buck Module in the lower left corner of the Control Box

    Installing the Remootio Controller:

    The first step to installing the Remootio controller is to open it up. On the back of the unit is a single screw that holds the plastic case together. Once removed the front of the case comes off revealing the circuit board underneath. We need to connect two things to the circuit board:

    1. A control wire that will send the control impulses to the MM371W to trigger the Open and Close actions.
    2. A. magnetic sensor wire that will tell us what the MM371W's position is, open or closed.

    Remootio provides a pretty good Instruction Guide on their website.

    Installing the Gate Position Sensor:

    The next thing I did was install the magnetic gate position sensor on the MM371W. I attached the wired magnetic sensor component to the MM371W opener housing right where the ram exits the plastic housing. The idea here was that when the gate is closed, the two magnetic sensors will be very close together and when the ram is fully extended (when the gate is closed) the sensors will be far apart, opening the switch. I wanted to position the sensors before I got everything else mounted so I could trim the wires and make the installation look as neat as possible.

    I used a gate clamp and a plastic block to get the spacing and alignment correct. A small piece of rubber on the ram arm under the hose clamp should keep the sensor from moving out of alignment over long periods of time. With both parts of the magnetic position sensor in place I ran the wires to the MM371W control box and trimmed the wires to fit.

    I will grab some photos of these in the morning and edit this post.

    Installing the Magnetic Gate Position Sensor Wires:

    After feeding the magnetic gate position sensor wires up into the MM371W control box, I connected the two leads to terminal 4 and tightened the screws.

    Gate Position Sensor Wires Left of the Center Power Port

    Installing the Control Wire to the MM371 Control Board:

    The control wire that will connect the Remootio to the MM371W control board is a simple two wire cable, a red and a black wire. On the Remootio side it plugged into the Control Output (Normally Open Relay) 2 ports. On the MM371W control board the wires are installed into the COM and CYCL ports as depicted below.

    ​

    Wiring Diagram for MM371W

    Remootio Control Wire Connected to COM and CYCL terminals on MM371W

    You can check compatibility with your gate opener to see exactly where to connect the control wires using the Remootio Compatibility Checker.

    Connecting the Power Source

    With all the sensor and control wires installed the only thing left to do is connect the power plug to the Remootio box and plug the USB A plug into the 12V Buck Module. The unit fired right up and after maybe 10 seconds the green light in the middle of the board was blinking.

    ​

    The Completed Remootio Installation Inside the MM371W Box

    Pairing the Remootio App:

    I downloaded the Remootio App to my phone and opened it. After a brief tutorial it asks is you want to Setup a New Device. Initial pairing was really easy and used Bluetooth. I was able to immediately open and close the gate. Success!

    Connect Remootio to Wi-Fi:

    Once you have setup your Remootio controller and connected with Bluetooth, you can go to the Settings icon and configure Wi-Fi. The app will scan for available Wi-Fi networks. You pick the network you want to join and provide the password. If you want to be able to access the Remootio device from anywhere in the world over the Internet, you also need to setup EasyConnect which is in the settings.

    Remootio's Wi-Fi connection guide

    Connecting Remootio to Your Smart Home:

    If you just want to connect Remootio to Siri with a basic widget you can follow their guide.

    I wanted to connect Remootio to HomeKit so I needed to do a little extra work. Remootio is not natively HomeKit compatible so we need to use HomeBridge instead. I have HomeBridge setup in a docker already. Setting up HomeBridge is outside the scope of this guide, you're gonna have to figure that part out.

    Thankfully there is a HomeBridge integration pre-built for Remootio, however, first you have to enable the API in the Remootio app settings page.

    Once you enable the API you will see your API Key and API Secret with a. button to copy them to the clipboard on your phone. You will need this data in a moment.

    Next open up HomeBridge and goto the Plugins tab. In the search bar type Remootio and you will see the Remootio plugin listed. Click Install and you will be asked to input the API Key and API Secret. Once the plugin is installed you must restart HomeBridge. Once HomeBridge restarts you will see your new Remootio gate controller listed in your Home app with the gate's position (Open or Closed).

    ​

    Remootio Plugin for HomeBridge

    ​

    Remootio Home Screen to Add a New Device

    ​

    Remootio Tile in Home App

    I hope this helps some people get a really nice Wi-Fi enabled gate solution setup and working.

    tl;dr: Buy Remootio and hook it up to a compatible gate. It's easy to do and can even work with HomeKit.

    submitted by /u/roastdawgg
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    Alarm Server - all your IP Camera Alarms in one place

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 11:18 PM PST

    Here is a tool I recently wrote:

    https://github.com/toxuin/alarmserver

    I have a zoo of cameras: some good, some not, some made by Hikvision, some HiSilicon, some - I don't even know. I use Home Assistant and love to automate stuff. When I bought a camera that could do "AI Human Detection with ONVIF" I was very bummed out when I learned that it's ONVIF implements no alarms whatsoever.

    I have other cameras that don't even have ONVIF but have a mysterious "Alarm Server" protocol support - I looked and I couldn't find what server they're supposed to talk to - so, naturally, I've decided to write one.

    Alarm Server, as the name suggests, is a server for all your cameras' alarms. It takes all your weird and beautiful alarms from the whole zoo of cameras and puts them into MQTT in a more controlled manner.

    It supports Hikvision, HiSilicon ("Alarm Server Protocol") and also any other cameras that can upload alarms to FTP.

    It then takes those alarms and sends them to MQTT so you can use them in your home automation.

    It is written in Go and runs nicely on Raspberry Pi too. There is also a Docker image (multi-arch, will work on RPi too!) for those who love running things in containers.

    FTP server in it can run in two modes: "fake" and "real" FTP. Fake mode is discards actual images, but that means you don't have to manage them :) In real mode you can connect with any FTP client and download/delete images that were uploaded by cameras to Alarm Server.

    I would love to learn if this project is useful to anybody else and if there are any comments or feature requests.

    Also, I've just added support for Webhooks. Yay!

    P.S. Cool Story Time:

    I've bought a video doorbell for 5$ on ebay that required some fixing. Long story short - I now have a doorbell.

    I have found out that Hikvision doorbells have a really nasty bug in firmware that breaks HTTP streaming: although they respond to all the hikvision-y authentication requests and basically report "yes I do support event streaming" to all the tools that can talk Hikvision, they don't actually stream anything.

    I've incorporated a silly http-in-tcp parser in Alarm Server that makes these doorbells and intercoms actually send events continuously and re-connect automatically.

    So I now have a doorbell that works.

    submitted by /u/toxuin
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    Wake on Lan Info (using Android) aka remote start/ boot

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 02:57 PM PST

    I wanted to be able to boot up my PC using Google Assistant or some kind of trigger I could also do manually and remotely. Most routers can allow you to expose ports and let you hit your PC remotely with a Wake on Lan (or "magic" packet) that will automatically boot your computer.

    However, this can be annoying to do and sometimes your ISP will change your IP on you. Plus, depending on how capable the router is, you'll have to possibly fiddle with fixed/static IP addresses or DHCP tables. It's not that complicated to do and it's free, doesn't require extra hardware/computer to do it unless your modem or PC doesn't support it (2021 I'd be shocked). Also, there are potential security risks if you over-expose certain settings/ports to the outside world beyond your modem or router.

    What's cool about the magic packet mechanism is you can make your own app to send the packet from any device on your network really. It doesn't have to be an Android device using these apps and steps. It could be an arduino or pi, any OS, etc. This is absolutely not the only way of doing this. You could even setup to trigger it on email or something as long as you have a device or service that is monitoring and can fire the packet.

    Instead, I wanted something on my local network. I have several old Android devices floating around and I've always wanted to use them for more home automation. I wasn't able to find a lot of good info using a google search so I took it on myself. The one major downside to this is that it costs $3.75 USD (at this time of writing) for an app called Tasker, but it is a really dope automation app that can be used for a bunch of stuff!

    Needed:

    1. Computer that supports wake on lan or "magic packet"
    2. Router or modem that supports network discovery and upnp
    3. Android device (5.0 or later, may support older versions untested)
    4. Wake On Lan app
    5. Tasker app
    6. IFTTT app
    7. Pushbullet app

    Steps:

    1. Enable wake on lan with your computer/device - you may need to research this yourself depending on the device but for me it required me to boot into my PC's BIOS and enable it there, then in Windows 10 I had to go into Device Manager -> Right Click Network Adapter (Intel Network Connection) -> Advanced -> Wake on Magic Packet but also I needed to download "Intel PROSet Adapter Configuration Utility" and enable it there as well. This was weird for me because prior to Windows 10, I never needed an application. There's some new funky crap in Windows 10 quick boot and power states (S#) that messes with wake on lan these days. Your steps should be somewhat similar but it always depends on the manufacturer of your hardware AND the OS/software to be compatible.

    2. In the Android "Wake On Lan" app you need to add your device. What's nice with this app is it will scan your local network for you and list all your devices and MACs, and you can quickly identify your device by either IP or MAC. It's a super quick way to identify if your device is visible to Android wifi or whatever it is connected with. If it's not, you can of course add it manually - you'll need the IP and port of the PC/device you want to wake AND the MAC address. The MAC is necessary for the magic packet to work! If you're confident enough to mess with your router settings, you could even stop following this guide here by giving your PC a fixed IP and exposing the Wake on Lan port by forwarding it to that fixed IP and just saving the fixed IP in the app. Tada!

    3. Once added, test that the "Wake On Lan" app can actually wake your PC/device from an shutdown state.

    4. In the Android "IFTTT" app you need to create an applet that will trigger on Google Assistant voice command to use "Pushbullet" to push a notification to your device or devices. If voice command 'Turn on computer' Then Pushbullet Push Note with message 'wakeup device'

    5. In the Android "Tasker" app you need to do a bunch of things. One of the bigger problems imo with this app is the UI is atrocious and not helpful at all. First, you want to create a TASK then add an action Plugin -> Wake On Lan -> Configuration -> select your device

    6. Secondly in "Tasker", you want to create a PROFILE using Event -> Plugin -> Pushbullet -> Received a Push -> receive a NOTE containing text 'wakeup device' from ANYONE then go back and select the action you made and named in the previous step.

    7. Everything should work now. You should be able to talk to google assistant OR use pushbullet to manually push a note to your Android device and it should boot your device! You can now repeat these steps for as many devices you want to turn on, or as many devices you want to be able to send magic packets. Multiple magic packets don't hurt if the device is already on or booting up don't worry.

    NOTE: Make sure in "Tasker" you save using the checkmark top right corner. Otherwise, you may lose any progress. It's a bizarre app. Also depending on the Android version and device (ie Samsung) you may need to enable a bunch of settings like allowing Tasker to read notifications, accessibility settings, be persistant, disable battery optimizations on it, etc On Android 5.0 Lolipop I had to make sure Tasker settings was enabled to Run in Foreground and have 'Never use reliable alarms' on among all the other things. No idea why. My personal Android 10 phone it kinda just worked out of the box without tinkering. A useful debugging tool in Tasker is to enable the Run Log under More in the dots menu top right corner. This will show you if tasks are running. You can also create a Action Alert or Popup, sound, whatever you want to trigger when your State Tasker is running your pushbullet profile (you may need to rename the pushbullet profile for it to be visible, so weird)

    Further reading: There are various method of being able to remotely turn off a PC or device too. That will depend entirely on your software or manufacturers though. As far as I know, there isn't a universal "shutdown on magic packet" mechanism embedded in hardware ha. But I bet in theory you could listen for that packet or poll the network interface for it being received and then invoke a shutdown, or you know, be sane and just use an existing mechanism :P

    submitted by /u/omeganemesis28
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    [RANT] I whish there was an option in searches to choose the protocol for your desired devices

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 11:57 AM PST

    Everytime I want to buy a device for my home automation, I search for zigbee or zwave + [needed device], because these are my favored connections. BUT EVERYTIME I HAVE TO GO THROUGH PAGES OF WLAN DEVICES I DONT WANT! On Amazon or Google I can choose the range of the price, the seller, the manufacturer, different categories but not THE F***ING SPECIFICATIONS! We're living in the 21st century and those specifications don't exist for 6 months but for years. Is it too much to ask?

    I think I would have bought more products, if I could specify my search for the protocoll I WANT TO USE.

    Sorry for the rant, but this is bugging me for a long time.

    submitted by /u/flobiwahn
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    Wireless, Audio Only Doorbell with Home Assistant?

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 12:32 PM PST

    My dogs have come to recognize the doorbell and go ape when they hear it. I'd like to put a separate doorbell in place, but I don't need fancy video recording (or the power consumption that goes with it).

    My thought was to use something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Wireless-Doorbell-AIMASON-Waterproof-Receiver/dp/B087X7F43M/, and delivery people that knock on the door or ring the doorbell but only as a courtesy (they don't need me to answer it) could use this button; visitors and deliveries that require a signature, or for them to "put it in my hands", could continue to use my existing Nest Video doorbell.

    I also realize that it would be great to be able to have signals from the button push coming into my Home Assistant ... not sure what I'd do with it quite yet BUT I wanted to at least make sure it was possible.

    Are the cheap wireless chimes (like the link above) somehow compatible with HA? What type of receiver would I require for the HA server to read this type of wireless signal? If not the specific model I'm showing, are there other brands/styles that would be HA compatible?

    Another possibility is to do this completely through HA (some form of wireless button that is HA compatible and then some sort of notification through an Echo, or notifications to our phones, or the like. But, for now, I like the idea that if I order one of these, it can meet my needs "plug and play" without HA in the middle, it would just be nice to know that I can subequently integrate this into an HA-based environment.

    submitted by /u/meisen99
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    Multi-zone speaker setup for music, but don't want Google or Amazon?

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 06:15 PM PST

    I'm looking to install some in ceiling speakers for listening to music in the kitchen and living room. I'd like to run the cables to my basement server rack, however, so I'll need something I can use via my phone or my wife's phone. I don't like the idea of a Google or Amazon internet connected microphone always listening, so what are my options?

    I'd like them to be two separate zones if possible. I have an extra Denon amp I could do this with but the app isn't the most advanced thing in the world. I'm thinking there's probably something I could plug into it though that would work well with an app on my network?

    Right now I primarily use Amazon music and DS music (synology) on my phone with a pair of Bluetooth bookshelf speakers.

    Two zones is fine but I might want to run a third to my deck in the future, so room for growth would be nice, but isn't essential.

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/HelluvaNinjineer
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    Do 2-gang smart dimming switches exist?

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 06:08 PM PST

    I'm looking on Amazon and I can't find one. However, my situation is extremely complicated. Its a 2-gang switch but one is a regular dimming switch and the other is a 3-way dimming switch.

    I doubt i can find that combo, but perhaps if I can buy a 2-gang regular dimming smart switch and another 3-way smart dimming switch i can take both switches and install them with the 2-gang faceplate I'll receive.

    Anyway, long story short, I can't find a single 2-gang smart dimming switch. Do these exist?

    Disclaimer i live in Canada and am searching on Amazon.ca

    submitted by /u/luckytaurus
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    Motion/Gesture sensor with javasript support

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 10:32 AM PST

    Do you know any gesture sensors that can be used with javascript/nodeJs besides leapmotion?

    submitted by /u/DaronFox
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    will 220v to 24vac 50hz Transformer safe to use in 220v 60hz home ?

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 05:53 PM PST

    I live in Saudi arabia and here the electricity volt/hz combination is very rare (220v 60hz)

    ​

    I bought this smart doorbell which require a transformer (the doorbell accept 18v to 24v 50/60hz) and I didn't find a transformers with dual hertz or 220v 60hz (which we have in the country) only 110v 60hz or 220v 50hz

    ​

    I want to use this transformer for the doorbell, will it work? and is it safe long term for both the transformer and doorbell or will their life span or functionality be effected ?

    submitted by /u/oldnick101
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    Landscape lighting automation: ESP WiFi vs DMX, hardwire vs WiFi

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 05:32 PM PST

    I'm dipping my toes into home automation and landscape lighting and would appreciate some help with a thought experiment & some questions.

    What is a good way to think about the tradeoff between using an ESP platform + WiFi + MQTT and the DMX setup that the pixel LED community uses?

    If I stretch 2.4Ghz WiFi signal all the way into my yard, with the weaker radio on an ESP combined with such a long distance, I'm going to have pretty atrocious spectral efficiency. In what practical situations does this cause an issue? For my data hungry devices, I use 5GHz within the house, but 2.4GHz when sitting in my yard. I think the right answer would be to avoid streaming bandwidth hungry stuff like lighting sequences to the ESP, and instead push the lighting sequence logic to the ESP and run it locally, with only network signalling to trigger the sequence.

    That then begs the question, how good is the OTA reconfiguration / downloading more software capability of ESPs?

    Now, I guess hardwiring instead of WiFi is an option. I'm about to pull some new low voltage wiring. Is there a data line I should pull at the same time that is compatible with ESP? Differential signaling pair(s) seems the right approach, is this common with ESPs? I know DMX systems use RS485 to send into a yard. If so, does the tech stack need 1 pair or 2 pairs, etc? Upon writing this up, this seems like a really bad approach for a small number of lights/other automation devices.

    submitted by /u/ZanyDroid
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    Flic Buttons + Echo Hub

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 04:55 AM PST

    I had been thinking about getting a new Echo and as it turns out at the same time I see that Flic buttons now work with Alexa to trigger routines.

    The question I have is can you use the internal Echo Hub to control these devices while still using the Flic app to setup the various customization?

    Trying to determine if I need the Flic Hub.

    submitted by /u/Legend1138
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    Android Tablet with USB charging and Ethernet over USB

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 10:59 AM PST

    I am planning a Loxone Smarthome and want to have two tablets to connect to the server, video doorbell, music etc. bolted to the walls. Usually, Loxone uses IPads for that. I, however, detest Apple and pride myself for not owning any of their products and would like to keep it that way. Is there an Android tablet that I can get to be plugged into Ethernet and have it charge via the same port at the same time like the iPad can? I really don't want to have to rely on WiFi for my "main connection" to the smart home system.

    submitted by /u/lollylan
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    High wattage vs amplifier

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 02:45 PM PST

    Hi,

    I'm trying to install a 20m light strip and trying to understand which is a better choice, having a higher wattage PSU or the rated PSU and use amplifiers for the extra connections, or will that even work?

    I will be getting the ajax color strip with Zigbee controller, each strip led is 5.2m

    Also, are there PSUs with multiple outlets to connect multiple strips?

    ​

    Thanks

    submitted by /u/BaderJF
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    I can't connect my doorbell to my phone

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 10:56 AM PST

    https://www.joom.com/nb/products/5fa614e95bbb80010668eda3

    This is the doorbell that my father bought. We ordered it two months ago and now it came. For the context, this site offers free transport, that is why we chose it (+my mom ordered other things from there and they were ok... I don't know why the descriptions are now in a different language, they were in English before). So, I have a problem with this.

    When the package came, there weren't any names from companies. I don't know who made this doorbell, where is it from, I know nothing. On the box it doesn't say anything, neither in the manual. In the manual it says that I can connect it with a phone, with an app called "New Ring". I only found "Ring" so I installed it, but it didn't let me scan the QR code. After some research, I found out that "Ring" is actually a company, but this product doesn't belong to them.

    I searched on Youtube products that are similar to mine, I found a video and they used "icsee". It still didn't let me scan. Maybe this is also from another company.

    Was someone from here in my situation? Or do you have any idea how can I connect it to my phone? My dad probably won't want to return it.

    submitted by /u/NVPH_Studio
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    Would you buy a smart fridge?

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 05:55 PM PST

    Hi everyone,

    I'm doing some research on the target demographic for smart fridges. Would greatly appreciate if you could take this 10 minute survey and/or drop your thoughts on smart fridges down below!

    https://forms.gle/xEsg9rVFZFW98oHB9

    Thanks in advance!

    submitted by /u/operator619
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    Google Assistant YouTube command for smart TVs

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 05:36 AM PST

    Xiaomi GW + Window / Door Sensor automation

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 09:06 AM PST

    Hi all,

    I was wondering how could I set up automation to turn lights off when I leave from house and turn them on when I come back. Thing is that there are two doors I have to open before leaving the house. I'd say hallway and corridor. I don't yet have a motion sensor to pair with gw so I cannot use that. Also if I set automation to turn lights off when the first door is opened and the second is opened (leaving from the house) then if someone comes for a visit I'd have a light show every time I open the doors.

    Probably i'm just too tired to think this out. :)

    Thanks and sorry!

    submitted by /u/juon4
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    Control Light Bulbs Through Manufacturer App and SmartThings?

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 12:51 PM PST

    I currently have a set of Sengled lightbulbs connected through my SmartThings hub. The SmartThings light bulb options are pretty minimal compared to what is available through the Sengled app. Can my bulbs be paired to the app without buying their hub? And can I control the bulbs through both the SmartThings software and their app simultaneously for different features? Does the Philips Hue lighting system have the ability to control through the app and SmartThings at once instead? Thanks

    submitted by /u/galacticphotos
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    August wifi lock gen 4 takes a while to auto unlock based on proximity. would integrating with home assistant get me a better response time? I was hoping to get it to unlock as soon as my phone connects to wifi

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 09:04 AM PST

    so far I have installed the august app hoping it would do what I need. but when I get home it takes another 10 seconds once I'm at the door to unlock. it also completely forgot its calibration the second day and I had to ask my roommate to cone let me in because the app wouldn't find the devices status, yet if I pulled up its wifi connection it said it was strong.

    submitted by /u/crazymonkeyfish
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    Hunter douglas IR controlled shade and smart things

    Posted: 02 Mar 2021 09:02 AM PST

    I've gone through the setup of smart things and it claims to have matched my ir remote signal for my shade yet when I trigger it via the app nothing happens. I'm wondering if the ir blaster isn't broadcasting the signal long enough.

    Anyone ever had a issue like this?

    submitted by /u/randytc18
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