Home Automation my iphone widgets |
- my iphone widgets
- Bringing back IRIS By Lowe's - Arcus Smart Home
- Reminder, To secure your CCTV cameras and any IoT Devices from the internet otherwise anyone can view them.
- Zwave Confusion - How on earth do I integrate it with my Nano
- How much phantom energy can you really save with a smart power strip?
- How to set up motion-triggered video streaming?
- Smart Doorbell for 2 Family House?
- Smart Switch at End of Circuit
- I was looking to replace my flickering Homeseer dimmers and think I've landed on Inovelli Red Gen 2. No more flicker and they are super customizable, but...
- Suggestions for a good hardwired camera system?
- [RELEASE] Hubitat Advanced Honeywell T6 Pro Z-Wave Thermostat Driver
- Looking for creative ideas
- Looking for a relay more with many inputs/outputs that can be triggered via one trigger input
- Lutron Smart Bridge to Smart Bridge Pro
- Noob looking for expert advice for lighting automation
- We wipe down all items/groceries before bringing anything into the house, and throw out any packaging/garbage directly in the garage. Had to make it more contact free and keep the indoor cat indoors.
- Anyone purchasing IKEA smart blinds in Raleigh/Triangle, NC and want to split the delivery cost?
- Yesterday I learned why WiFi is bad lol
- Can you use the kasa plug with an iphone ?
- HaierTAB?
- Home Automation with Alexa Only
- Need help with a Kasa Smart bulb
- Alexa routine + Simplisafe
| Posted: 19 Apr 2020 09:47 PM PDT
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| Bringing back IRIS By Lowe's - Arcus Smart Home Posted: 19 Apr 2020 07:14 PM PDT
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| Posted: 19 Apr 2020 08:10 AM PDT Cautionary Tale If you set anything up and do not properly secure them they will be actively scanned and anyone can view them. Make sure they are not internet facing, If they need to be make sure they are regularly patched (firmware updated) and get a reputable vendor. Also make sure you change the default password! Here is a project that shows you just how many things are wide open to the internet. https://github.com/tg12/rapid7_OSINT Cameras.... https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tg12/rapid7_OSINT/master/scans/cameras.txt Edit, Wow I have had a lot of questions. I was not expecting this level of response. Thanks. So I thought I would include a few basic links, "Security" will come from your level of understanding and the time and effort you want to put into learning this. Cost is negligible as a lot of security is "free" just takes time and knowledge to install it. I think the basics have been covered but I just wanted to say if you buy from a reputable brand they will have better support and more likely to patch any vulnerabilitys. Here are a few links worth reading. https://us.norton.com/internetsecurity-malware-webcam-hacking.html https://www.t3.com/features/best-security-camera https://www.which.co.uk/news/2019/10/the-cheap-security-cameras-inviting-hackers-into-your-home/ https://reolink.com/how-to-secure-your-wifi-enabled-home-camera/ https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0382-using-ip-cameras-safely [link] [comments] | ||
| Zwave Confusion - How on earth do I integrate it with my Nano Posted: 19 Apr 2020 12:27 PM PDT I'm automating my blinds and wanted to connect the servo to my Arduino Nano. I was looking into Zwave for the communication aspect. I'm having the hardest time finding anything about how to integrate zwave. Every source is ambiguous and pretty much says "it's proprietary" and/or "difficult to code" with no examples or how to's on how to work it with your projects. Do I purchase a ZM5202 chip and wire it to my nano? (such as this: https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/z-wave-modules/80115 ). Z-uno is just way to expensive if I plan to have one for each device, so that's not something I plan to use (especially when I have a handful of nanos left over). If someone can explain this to me and/or point me in the right direction, I would be grateful! [link] [comments] | ||
| How much phantom energy can you really save with a smart power strip? Posted: 19 Apr 2020 12:16 PM PDT Say a workstation with a MacBook Pro (charger), a monitor (own power saving mode), a ventilation/purifier fan (dumb on/off), a usb hub and PS4 (own power saving mode). Realistically, how much phantom draw do these devices overnight? Is it even worth automating a shut down routine for them? [link] [comments] | ||
| How to set up motion-triggered video streaming? Posted: 19 Apr 2020 07:43 PM PDT I'm hoping to start a project where you walk into a room, and a motion sensor triggers a vintage TV to turn on and auto-play a video stream (Simpsonwave compilations, 90's cartoon streams, etc...). What would be the best way to set this up? Currently running Smartthings hub & Alexa in my house – and would use a motion sensor (or maybe contact sensor) to trigger. I don't have a small crt tv yet. Any thoughts on tutorials, how this would work, connections, etc...? Thanks! [link] [comments] | ||
| Smart Doorbell for 2 Family House? Posted: 19 Apr 2020 05:08 PM PDT I own and live on the first floor of a 2 family house. There is 1 main door followed by 2 separate doors for each unit. 1 leads up stairs, and 1 leads to our unit. What would be a good solution for doorbell(s) in our situation? Does it make sense to have 3 door bells and smart locks? 1 for each door? What would you do? Probably doesn't make sense to share a main door bell with tenant right? I wouldn't want to be alerted every time a visitor comes for them. Suggestions appreciated! [link] [comments] | ||
| Smart Switch at End of Circuit Posted: 19 Apr 2020 09:11 PM PDT I was installing smart switches in my house with no problem until I came upon one legacy switch that is wired at the end of the circuit, with the power going to the light first, then to the switch. My smart switch is a Gosund with the red (load), black (hot/live), white (neutral) and green (ground) wires. In the box I have the black (hot) and white (neutral / return) plus the copper ground. Can this be wired up to a smart switch? Really hoping so as running new wires to the light is not an option due to access issues (tiled backsplash where the switch is and nicely textured ceiling to the light in the middle of the kitchen. The can lights in my kitchen were newer installs so they were straightforward but this circuit was from the original house build in '79. Thank you in advance! --T [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 19 Apr 2020 12:26 PM PDT How do you guys deal with the action button sticking out near the top? Every time I reach around a doorway in my house to turn on my lights, I hit the action button, NOT the up paddle. It's starting to get on my nerves. [link] [comments] | ||
| Suggestions for a good hardwired camera system? Posted: 19 Apr 2020 05:21 PM PDT I've used HIKVision stuff for ages, but I'm not a fan of any of the smart phone apps to control them, remote access is more painful than it should be, and trying to download footage is awful. I'd love to have something that hits most or all of these points;
Cheers! [link] [comments] | ||
| [RELEASE] Hubitat Advanced Honeywell T6 Pro Z-Wave Thermostat Driver Posted: 19 Apr 2020 09:35 AM PDT Advanced Honeywell T6 Pro Z-Wave Thermostat DriverDriver Capabilities
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| Posted: 19 Apr 2020 10:20 AM PDT I have a water well. My submersie pump refills a 500 gallon tank. The tank has a float which trips a relay to kick on the submersible pump when its low and turns off when the tank is full. There is a dumb AC outlet that is energized when the pump relay activates. When the tank fills there is the noise of water splashing (like a hose) filling the tank. I tried using a wyze cam to detect sound but found I get lots of false triggers with other noises in the basement I'd like to figure out a way to trigger an action like SMS or notification, etc based on when the tank is filling. I have Smartthings, IFTTT, Alexa as my core setup. [link] [comments] | ||
| Looking for a relay more with many inputs/outputs that can be triggered via one trigger input Posted: 19 Apr 2020 03:41 PM PDT I am looking for a relay board that has multiple inputs and outputs (preferably more than 10), that can be all triggered via one trigger input. They do not need to be individually toggled, it can be all on or off. Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
| Lutron Smart Bridge to Smart Bridge Pro Posted: 19 Apr 2020 12:52 PM PDT Is there any way to replace a Smart Bridge with the Pro without blowing away & redoing all my Alexa, Smart Things and Homekit integrations? Support's recommended process is basically making an entire new linked account. There's gotta be a better way! Can I add the Pro and then remove the old bridge? [link] [comments] | ||
| Noob looking for expert advice for lighting automation Posted: 19 Apr 2020 06:32 PM PDT Hello, I was hoping to get some inputs and suggestions for my situation. I have stairs in my house and there's a light on the second floor corridor. It can be controlled by a switch at the foot of the stairs or on the second floor. I want to install a motion sensor switch in the second floor so the light turns on after sunset when someone walks into the corridor. I was also hoping to install a motion sensor of some sort on the stairs that would trigger the light using the same switch or the switch in the bottom floor. Is this possible? [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 19 Apr 2020 05:07 PM PDT
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| Anyone purchasing IKEA smart blinds in Raleigh/Triangle, NC and want to split the delivery cost? Posted: 19 Apr 2020 04:34 PM PDT The delivery cost here is 199 and really only need 1. Anyone else from the area (within an hour drive) and want to go in on a pool and split the delivery cost? [link] [comments] | ||
| Yesterday I learned why WiFi is bad lol Posted: 19 Apr 2020 11:34 AM PDT So the short version; ISP provider modem/router unit went bad and had to be replaced. We installed the new box and as expected things were so much better. I was seeing literally 10 times faster speeds and my daughter wasn't running into the room every three minutes informing us that her iPad wasn't working. I honestly already knew the lesson I was about to learn, that WiFi isn't an ideal system for automation hardware, so I really have very few items that use it (currently three little Gosund wall wart plugs). I went through all my stuff in my Home Automation folder in my phone app by app changing the WiFi for devices as I went (MySmartBlinds, Wyze, Blink, Bose, Sonos, Nexx, Family Hub, EcoBee, etc etc etc) and while it wasn't terribly frustrating I immediately was grateful that I opted for Z-Wave switches and sensors because once the SmartThings hub booted up with its hard wire connection.......everything just worked. No muss no fuss. I kept imagining what a nightmare it would be if I had gone with WiFi devices instead. Today my father-in-law tells me they had to change their modem/router as well......so I've been trying to go through fixing his stuff which is all WiFi and #FML So the lessons I took away from the experience are somewhat twofold. WiFi devices (while they do have their place and you simply can't fully eliminate all of them) are definitely not ideal. Z-Wave is so much easier and anything that CAN be hardwired to the network SHOULD BE. If you're into home automation, you're probably more of a power user than your average bear, whether you're just sort of techish or a full blown geek and you should probably consider ditching the ISP provided hardware and simply install a modem and your own WiFi (mesh). That way even if you change ISPs or whatever the only way your WiFi could change would be if your mesh died. You could change providers a million times and your WiFi would always be the same so all of your devices simply jump right back onto the network. That's my next project.......buying a modem and mesh setup and ditching the combo unit. I used the same logic 18 years ago when I bought my first domain name......we moved around a lot after we got married and every time we did our ISP changed which meant our email addresses changed which was a pain in the ass. Owning my own domain means no matter where we are our emails are always the same in the same manner as providing my own WiFi. [link] [comments] | ||
| Can you use the kasa plug with an iphone ? Posted: 19 Apr 2020 09:16 AM PDT Hello everyone, i recently started using the kasa smart plug and like it a lot, i have an android phone. I want to get one for my sister for her birthday but I remembered she has an Iphone. She does have google assistants at her house like the google nest, so i was wondering if it would be possible for her to use the smart plug? Would she be able to download the appropriate apps on her iphone and control the lights from anywhere? Would she be able to make voice compands with her google nest to her kasa plugs? Thank you. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 19 Apr 2020 06:07 AM PDT I've been looking around here a couple days back and concluded that the Roborock vacuum would be the bot to get but came across this today. The HaierTAB. It feels very fishy though considering it doesn't use official Haier domains nor is listed on any Haier page, I've sent the real ones an email, so we'll see. So, what do you people think? The page makes it seem absolutely perfect but they have a tendency to do so. [link] [comments] | ||
| Home Automation with Alexa Only Posted: 19 Apr 2020 12:48 PM PDT I am mulling over the idea of upgrading my current system. Currently I am using a 1st Gen Wink Hub, and all of my switches are Z-Wave. While I *could* update my wink hub, I am thinking of switching to Zigbee switches and use an Amazon Echo Plus as my hub. Does anyone have experience with this? What do I give up? Aside from not having an additional hub device, what do I gain? [link] [comments] | ||
| Need help with a Kasa Smart bulb Posted: 19 Apr 2020 11:47 AM PDT Hi all, I have a Kasa Smart bulb which keeps misbehaving. It turns on randomly and doesn't turn off according to sensor cues. I am using Alexa for the smart home and it connects to the bulb via the Kasa TP link app. It's meant to come on due to a smartthings sensor (it does) and go off when no motion is detected (it doesn't). I have another Kasa bulb in the house that works fine. I have tried deactivating the sensor (light still came on randomly) and have tried removing the bulb from the app and alexa and re adding it). I did have the bulb connected via smartlife and alexa and I removed it from smartthings and that hasn't helped. If anyone can help I'd appreciate it, it's driving me nuts. [link] [comments] | ||
| Posted: 19 Apr 2020 07:42 AM PDT Big time home automation noob here....I'm trying to set up my goodnight routine to have Alexa just arm my simplisafe in home mode. Currently, I say goodnight and it shuts lights off as appropriate but then I have to wait for the simplisafe commands to be triggered then ask to arm in home mode. I want it to just arm in home mode when I say goodnight. I'd think it would be easy. Has anyone done this? [link] [comments] |
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