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    Tuesday, January 12, 2021

    Home Unlabelled Home Automation Just wanted to show off the software-defined current control of my window opener. More info in the comments.

    Home Automation Just wanted to show off the software-defined current control of my window opener. More info in the comments.

    January 12, 2021

    Home Automation Just wanted to show off the software-defined current control of my window opener. More info in the comments.

    Just wanted to show off the software-defined current control of my window opener. More info in the comments.

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:32 AM PST

    GE Zwave Switch Click of Death Fix

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 09:12 PM PST

    If you've used the GE Zwave smart switches (not the dimmers) I'm pretty sure you've seen the 'click of death' that occurs after you've lost power and had it restored. I bought a bunch of these switches and have had MOST (more than 1/2) of them fail over a few years. It's pathetic. I feel that they literally owe me hundreds in failed switches and then the 'pulsing' after they get power back can damage the equipment it's switching. They owe me a set of florescent lights they they killed last night.

    Anyway, I found a post here: https://community.smartthings.com/t/ge-jasco-switch-clicking/166573

    So, that's where credit is due. But I've searched several times on how to revive these switches and never found an answer. I'm putting it here for posterity.

    ​

    Basically, you take the switch apart, replace Cap C7 (10uF 25V Electrolytic), and reassemble.

    Get the switch out of the wall and on your workbench.

    1) Use a small screw driver to remove the paddle switch (there are 4 plastic teeth holding it on).

    2) Tighten all the switch terminals down or they will fall out every after this step.

    3) Remove the 4 phillips screws and the back of the switch will come off. 1/2 of the back will remain connected to the metal plate.

    After this, you can physically see the offending capacitor C7. It's a small cap next to a larger coil in the middle of the switch.

    4) Unsolder a 6 pin header so you can remove the main board. This is the hardest part. I find it easier to ADD solder to the 6 pin connector, then lay the tip of the soldering iron in the middle of the connector so you touch all l6 pins at once. Apply constant pressure pulling the board away from the other one and as all 6 pins flow, it will break free. From there, you can use some soldering braid to clean off the 6 blank holes for re-installation.

    5) At this point, I use a pair of pliers and rip off the capacitor and expose the two legs. I can grab those with pliers and then apply heat on the other side of the board where the pins protrude through the board. Use a finger to push the board away with the plier hand and it will slip right out. A little solder braid to clean the holes and you're ready to repair.

    6) Put in a new 10uF 25V Electrolytic cap and the polarity is the same as the neighboring caps. The negative stripes all face the same direction.

    7) Solder it in place and trim the leads.

    8) If your 6 hole header is clean and the pins are clean (braid will help with this) it will slip right on.

    9) Re-solder the 6 pin header and re-assemble the switch.

    10) I believe the switch remembers it's mission in life (Z-wave binding) but I'm doing a rolling replacement. I'm having to remove each switch from the zwave and then rejoin the network. That's just the way I'm doing it. If you pull it and fix it, I'm pretty sure it will jump right back in without rebinding.

    ​

    I'm 3 for 3 with this fix and about to do the 4th. I'm so disappointed with GE for releasing a product this shoddy, but at least now I can fix it in about 10 minutes.

    submitted by /u/GalaxyClass
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    Empty Light Switch Space, What Should I Put There?

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:25 PM PST

    So I am currently building a house and I'm going all-in with automation. My bedroom has an outlet wired to an extra light switch. This is not needed for my applications and so I am considering just patching it through and removing the switch.

    I've seen a couple scene-selector switches, but is there anything else creative that I can do in that spot instead of just putting a blank plate over it?

    I'm fully integrated with Amazon Alexa and am buying up as much Lutron Caseta as possible. Anything to go along with these applications?

    submitted by /u/strikingeagle9
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    DIY inventory scanner

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 09:37 PM PST

    I would like to create a spreadsheet of the groceries I buy to keep inventory. I was thinking of just using a barcode scanner app and link the output to a spreadsheet/googlesheet.

    Is there a way to get the item name from the barcode? For example if I buy a can of Campbell's chicken soup from Walmart, will I be able to get the item name from the barcode? And if I scan another Campbell's chicken soup from a different grocery store will I be able to get the same item name?

    submitted by /u/thentangler
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    Lutron adds an outdoor plug to its smart lighting lineup

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 12:10 PM PST

    Are there Tasmota flashable (tuya convert) wifi LED light strips?

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 09:34 PM PST

    I'm looking for a waterproof LED light strip that can be flashed with Tuya convert to Tasmota. Looking at the hardware page for Tuya convert github, I only see one "BlitzWolf" wifi LED strip, which I can't find US plugs for.

    Anyone else know of any? Or maybe a separate wifi WLED controller plus the LEDs themselves?

    submitted by /u/androidusr
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    Tuya/Tellur All conditions is met

    Posted: 12 Jan 2021 12:13 AM PST

    Hello, so i have a lamp with a smart bulb in it which is in my living and i got recently a PIR sensor.

    I tried to do this scenario: When PIR detects movement and the lamp is off (with When All condition is met) then turn the lamp on, wait 5 minutes, turn the lamp off. The PIR is set to 4 minutes to wait in order to replay again.

    When the lamp turns off, it turns on immediately, even if no one triggers the PIR sensor. Its like the PIR sensor doesn`t count at all when I set the scenario to be triggered When All conditions is met.

    ​

    I want to trigger the light only when its off and pir is triggered, because i dont want to trigger the light again when the lamp is on because maybe someone is watching tv and i dont want his light to be turned off after 5 minutes. Any idea why PIR doesnt count if i set ALL conditions is met ?

    submitted by /u/Constantin_SCTR
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    Looking for device that will provide power to a 2nd outlet when the 1st outlet increases power use.

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:20 PM PST

    Use case will be for installing two fans into a media case for Xbox Series X.

    Outlet 1: Xbox Series X

    Outlet 2: Embedded fans pushing air through media case.

    I only want the fans running when the Xbox is on. Are there any recommendations for accomplishing this?

    submitted by /u/0Ol0IIlIOOlIIllI
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    Improved standard boring lamp with gaming pixel LED strips ��

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 11:21 PM PST

    Help me troubleshoot

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 01:26 PM PST

    Looking for a stereo receiver or audio switch that can handle what I'm looking for.

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 07:21 PM PST

    I use Google Assistant as the base for my smart home, so everything needs to work with Google, not Alexa, Samsung, etc.

    I have a Legrand in home speaker system that allows for a 3.5mm input as an external audio source. My TV only has an optical audio out. I found a digital to analog convertor that can handle this, but I'd like to upgrade the entire system to be voice controlled. So I'm looking for a receiver, soundbar, speaker, or whatever that can handle an optical audio in and either Bluetooth reception so I can pair with my Google home, or have Google assistant/chromecast built in. I'd also like it to detect which input is sending audio and switch itself, or switch input from voice command. Beyond that and other built in sources, like AM/FM radio, Pandora, Spotify, etc would be welcome but not necessary. My main goal is to get those two digital sources into an analog output without manual source changing.

    I hope that made sense...

    PS, I'm not afraid of multiple devices or programming something into Google or Tasker to achieve this. I just have no soldering skills, so making my own device that isn't plug and play is out of the question.

    submitted by /u/m1stak3
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    Smart Thermostats: live in the UK and am with British Gas, what thermostat do you recommend? Debating between Nest and Hive (as I get a discount as a British Gas customer)

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 08:37 AM PST

    Water meter

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:39 PM PST

    Hey all!

    As with most of you here I've been on the never ending path of automation. I've recently been working on a home energy meter and it got me thinking about other utilities, like water.

    I came across the Flo Smart Meter but, depending on the pipe size, it starts at $399 USD plus a subscription cost.

    Has anyone come across any other smart water meter that's not stupidly expensive and can be done fully locally?

    Example: For energy monitoring I'm using a Z-Wave energy meter that hooks into Home Assistant. I'm looking to (at the very least) monitor water usage as well in a similar manner

    submitted by /u/MidnightLink
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    Noob question... Smart plugs w/ dimmable bulbs

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 10:12 PM PST

    Sorry if this is a dumb question but, if I have a dimmable LED bulb (not smart), plugged into a floor lamp, plugged into a smart plug can will the smart plug allow me to reduce the brightness of the bulb?

    Or do I just need to get a smart bulb?

    Thanks all!

    submitted by /u/DSkrivanich
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    LED up-lighting an interior wall

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 06:24 PM PST

    LED up-lighting an interior wall

    ​

    Map down...

    Map up! I know, I know... the TV stand is a little short. Doing my best with the space I've got.

    I built this "mantle" map shelf over my TV a while back that hides the screen when its not in use, and I want to add some light on top of the mantle that will shine up towards the coved ceiling. Seems like a LED strip would be the way to go, but the choices online are legion and I'm going cross-eyed trying to figure out what the best option for me is going to be. I did search this sub but this seems like a unique enough application that I didn't see the info I was looking for. This room is fairly dark in general and I don't have space to add a lamp on the wall with the TV, so my main goal is to add more light to this dark room and not so much to backlight the TV or have millions of colors to choose from, although that would be a nice bonus.

    My primary objectives for this project are:

    • White temperature control
    • Pretty bright when set to 100%
    • Dimmable
    • Voice control through google home. I've got some extra TP-link smart plugs I can use if the lights don't have this capability built-in, but will that work with dimming?

    Nice to haves:

    • RGB color selection
    • Add lights in such a way that you won't see individual hot spots from each LED

    ​

    I'm sure Philips Hue strips are lovely but I'm trying to complete this project with a pretty low budget, and it seems like all of those "smart" features would be wasted on what is most likely going to be a simple on/off/dim after I find a color temp I like. Any suggestions on what to look for would be very much appreciated!

    submitted by /u/walterthekat
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    DIY Soil Temperature Logger

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 10:48 AM PST

    DIY Soil Temperature Logger

    I asked for recommendations recently in this thread and then decided to just cobble something together myself as I had the sensor already.

    The goal was to wireless get access to the current and logged temperature of my turf which is used to determine the application timing of preemergent herbicide in the spring. In other words, it lets me know when to spray Prodiamine to prevent crabgrass. You use soil temperature, not air temperature for this.

    I can use greencastonline for this based on zip code, but I want to know what's going on in my turf specifically.

    To put this together, I used a Govee H507 wireless thermometer. This appears to be a clone of the more expensive SensorPush logger. These things were frequently available last year on Amazon with a coupon and a lightning deal making the price around $9. There is a new $39 version so YMMV getting something that cheap if the H507 has been discontinued.

    To waterproof it, I put it in the cheapest container I could come up with. I could maybe make something cheaper out of some PVC plumbing, but the cost of the glue and cleaner would probably be more than the alternative.

    After poking around, I came across the Scuba Choice brand cylindrical dry box which is intended for divers. (ASIN : B00YLVWCGY) This was only $10.99 and the only additional thing I had to really buy.

    To prevent the empty space inside from buffering the temperature, I figured I'd fill it with sand. I was going to just go dig some up in the yard, but it NEVER.STOPS.RAINING so I caved and purchased a $4 bag of sand meant for crafts.

    I filled the stash can partway with sand, tossed in the sensor, and topped it off with more sand. Out in the yard, I removed a plug of dirt with the shovel and buried the whole works. I took a picture of the placement for my lawncare log so I can locate it and dig up back up in the future when/if needed.

    All told, this cost me ~$15 and would be maybe $25 or so if I didn't have the sensor already.

    From my couch, I'm about 20 ft away give or take and it won't read the data. I think the house is blocking the signal. I can however stand just outside my front door and easily pull the data. The location of the probe gets full sun almost all day. I plan to put one more in a location that is almost completely shaded and use the two data points to get an average for the overall yard. I'll compare to Greencast and see if I'm really getting more accurate information or if I'm just overthinking things.

    https://preview.redd.it/60p90l521ra61.jpg?width=450&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32a893a6a671341aff87f678d57e23ec6064395e

    ​

    ​

    ​

    https://preview.redd.it/526f4dy31ra61.jpg?width=450&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=347404d7914b8dc4181a12b31f7b33c78e9c454e

    submitted by /u/GQGeek81
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    Disable S31 flashed with Tasmota from turning off

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:53 PM PST

    I just finished flashing my S31 with Tasmota with the purpose of energy monitoring integration with Home Assistant to track my Home Lab's power. Given this switch staying powered keeps my Home Assistant server and network online, I'd like to prevent this switch being toggled off easily by misclick. Is it possible to do this?

    Thanks!

    submitted by /u/Gelu6713
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    Best video intercom doorbell that will allow multiple people to be paged simultaneously

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 01:50 PM PST

    I checked several recent posts on this but no one had a good description of what the backend functionality was like if you need multiple users. It seems like UniFi might be good for this but I'm not sure.

    I need a video, preferably two-way intercom, doorbell for an office space.

    I want to power it with a regular electrical socket. Our floor our offices are on has a small secured small lobby just for the elevators and if you don't have a key fob someone has to come let you in. Normally there'd be someone sitting at the front desk looking through the glass door to just let people in when they knock, but now there is no receptionist. Just a few people scattered throughout the large office floor who have variable schedules. So to that effect, the main functionality I'm really looking for is a doorbell that can page multiple people, say 3-5, at the same time in hopes of reaching whoever happens to be in at the moment squirreled way in their back office.

    We have g suite for business so I'm not sure if any of the Nest doorbells would integrate with that to allow different users to be paged with their existing business g suite accounts. I of course want to avoid anyone having to use their personal gmail/amazon accounts to somehow be paged, or multiple people have to share a login for a service.

    Door bell must have

    • WiFi connectivity
    • Ability to plugin into regular electrical socket w/ or w/o adapter
    • Ability to page 3-5 people simultaneously through their mobile phone/computer
    • No-monthly subscription
    • Under $300

    Nice haves

    • Two-way intercom
    • Video
    • Notification rules for different users (e.g. Bossman paged from from 9 am to 2 pm, Office manager always paged, Random employee that prefers to come into an empty office during a pandemic able to turn notifications off/on at will).

    Don't care about/doesn't need

    • Recording and storage
    • Outside features like night vision or resolution for long distances. This is a strictly inside camera already behind one layer of security (keyfob activated elevator).
    submitted by /u/under_psychoanalyzer
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    SimpleCommands - MyQ/Hue Routine

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 03:20 PM PST

    I am new to SimpleCommands and was hoping it would replace the gaping hole that IFTTT has left in its limited capacities for home automation. When I heard that you can integrate with MyQ I was excited. However, the routine I'd like to create is for one of my Hue light bulbs to turn on once the garage door (controlled by MyQ) opens. However, I don't see a way to initiate MyQ as (what I'm assuming is) the "Event Trigger." Is that how this works? To setup a routine the action for me would be "Hue bulb ON" and wouldn't the event trigger by the garage door opening? It only looks like the Ring camera has domain over ETs (picture). Anyone have any ideas?

    https://imgur.com/a/ISncWew

    submitted by /u/Mt11784
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    Grafana, InfluxDB and beyond. Gathering IoT metrics for Home Automation

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 04:43 AM PST

    Grafana, InfluxDB and beyond. Gathering IoT metrics for Home Automation

    ​

    DIY Smart Heating 3.0

    Hi..

    I started collecting environmental info this heating season as I want to use it later for Machine Learning. While there are tutorials on how to install Grafana or InfluxDB they usually stop at the login point. I wrote a bit more on how to approach data collection in time-based databases and added examples as well.

    Article shows:

    • installation for Grafana and InfluxDB
    • The setup process and making it work together and with nodeRED
    • how to store data and how to approach data structures to match your goals
    • how to embed charts, so you don't have to change dashboards
    • using Grafana to show different metrics of the same data

    Hope you will find it useful.

    https://notenoughtech.com/raspberry-pi/grafana-influxdb

    ​

    PS

    I know questions will follow in regards to the heating system, so full write up will happen within a day or 2.

    submitted by /u/Quintaar
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    What should I set my home nest to?

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 05:11 PM PST

    Let me know if there is a better place to ask this, I figured here would be a good start.

    I live in Oregon. I just installed a nest thermostat. It has an option to have a minimum and maximum temperature.

    It gets below 32F here, I have it sent to 38, to protect the pipes. Is that high enough?

    It gets to be 100+ here in the summer, what should I set the max temperature to?

    submitted by /u/questions_askin
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    Add HDMI-CEC to a non-HDMI source? (Specifically a Nintendo Wii and PS1)

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 01:08 PM PST

    I just got an HDMI adapter for my Wii and PS1 and I've so far connected the Wii to my TV. The adapter doesn't seem to support HDMI-CEC though. Is there something out there that I can connect between the Wii and the TV that would tell the TV to power on/off when the Wii starts/stops sending a video signal?

    I suppose the setup would look like this:

    Wii/PS1 - HDMI adapter - HDMI-CEC adapter - HDMI cable - TV

    Or possibly:

    Wii/PS1 - HDMI adapter - HDMI cable - HDMI-CEC adapter - TV

    The Wii adapter plugs directly into the Wii. The PS1 adapter converts RCA to HDMI (I haven't tested the PS1 adapter yet so I don't know if it supports CEC yet).

    I don't need the TV to be able to turn off the Wii/PS1, since that would be impossible. I just want the TV to turn on/off when I turn those devices on and off.

    submitted by /u/nymonymo
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    Lutron Caseta outdoor smart plug revealed

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 01:05 PM PST

    What's the easiest way to automate Hue lights based on time of day

    Posted: 11 Jan 2021 02:31 PM PST

    I want some kind of automation to check if lights are on, say every hour or so during the day. If they're on, I want them to change colour temperature and brightness throughout the day. If they're off, they should stay off. It doesn't seem like there's a way to do this using the Hue app, or using Google Assistant. What the easiest thing to add to allow this functionality? Something like Home Assistant? Will IFTTT do something like this?

    submitted by /u/s2alexan
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