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    Monday, April 6, 2020

    Home Automation Getting the wife on board

    Home Automation Getting the wife on board


    Getting the wife on board

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 01:03 PM PDT

    So we moved into our new home about a month ago and I've been slowly converting things from dumb tech to smart tech. First project that REALLY came online fully was our laundry room light where as you enter from the garage or interior of the house the light comes on. I'm using a PIR on the ceiling and smart switches so it's not complicated or all that impressive but it's the first thing that's truly "automated".

    Today my wife told me

    "I went into the girls bathroom and was like why aren't the lights coming on?"

    Folks I think she's hooked!

    submitted by /u/Venmaru
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    Are the new robot vacuum really better?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 09:08 AM PDT

    Hi,

    I bought a Neato D3 connected two weeks ago. Paid 240$ CAD, it felt like a good deal. I'm gonna be honest here, I'm a little disappointed with it. I know it's not a top-end model, but I feel like it should be better than this.

    My house is 99% hard floor. I have a difference of 3/4'' in height between my floors. Sometimes the robot is able to climb it, sometimes it won't. My D3 is stuck in the middle of nowhere atleast once in the run and it's making a weird noise, even if I'm cleaning it every time. I have a girlfriend, no dogs, no cats (for now..) and it struggle with hairs, I need to remove the brushes and cut the hair everytime single time. It disconnect from my Wifi easily.

    We have two options here:

    1. I'm returning my neato D3 (bought at canadian tire).
    2. I'm keeping it downstair and I buy a need one.

    I would be easier for the vacuum to be downstair, but I'm wondering if it's really worth it. Is a 2020 robot vacuum really that good? When it works, I love it. It's the best thing. But damn it's frustrating too. Is a Roborock S5 miles away? A Neato D7?

    Thanks and stay safe.

    PS: Sorry for my english, it's not my first language..

    Edit: 240$CAD, not 2540$

    submitted by /u/Jeeeepy
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    Request for critique, recommendations & feedback on current home setup.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 10:03 PM PDT

    Home is 2 stories, 3,500 sq ft and have an Orbi with 3 base stations spread around. I jumped on the Wemo train very early and have changed the majority of my home light switches to Wemos. All in all, i have 30 various Wemos on my network with approximately 50 different items connected at any one time. I also have about 10 various Sonos products that are connected with the SonosNet and we stream 100% of all content.

    I use Amazon Echos around the house and use it to control things and more times than not, when I ask Alexa to "turn off X light", she responds with "X isn't responding, please check your network or power supply." I'm occasionally able to control the Wemo through the app on my iphone, but getting the app to actually connect to the wemos and stop 'clocking' is about a 1 in 20 shot, so the app is just as unreliable.

    I've tried a router that had all the Wemos on one channel thinking that would free up traffic and that was unsuccessful in resolving the connectivity issues. I've had enough issues with Wemo, I'm considering replacing them. What other options do I have?

    This is where you come in, what would you recommend I do with my overabundance of Wemos?

    submitted by /u/DaddyAndy
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    Wiring up a Smart Switch with a looped line

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 11:45 PM PDT

    I'm waiting for a smart switch I ordered to arrive. I checked my current dumb switch, and the line wire is looped around a terminal screw and runs back into the wall. I've seen this daisy chain technique with the other switches (3 gang) in my house.

    The smart switch I'm getting doesn't have a screw terminal to secure the line wire. Instead it comes with it's own wires that I connect in with wire nuts.

    So my question is, should I simply cut the line loop, and then use a wire nut to bind the two cut line wires and the line wire from the switch?

    submitted by /u/Finnzz
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    Newbie with HASSio and zigbee2MQTT

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 10:50 PM PDT

    Excuse me if there is something over the internet for this one, but I haven't found it. So I have installed HASSio , flashed my CC2531 with zigbee2mqtt and installed the addon for it in hassio. When I open the zigbee2mqtt in addons Im correcting the config as below(taken from the official zigbee2mqtt):

    data_path: /share/zigbee2mqtt

    devices: devices.yaml

    groups: groups.yaml

    homeassistant: true

    permit_join: false

    mqtt:

    base_topic: zigbee2mqtt

    server: 'mqtt://localhost'

    serial:

    port: /dev/ttyACM0

    advanced:

    pan_id: 6754

    channel: 11

    network_key:

    However Im still getting: 2020-04-06 08:49:19: Not connected to MQTT server!

    Would appreciate some help :)

    submitted by /u/SectorOMEGA
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    Shelly 1 Garage Door Opener, The Easy Way Or The Fun Way

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 10:09 PM PDT

    Shelly 1 Garage Door Opener, The Easy Way Or The Fun Way

    Thanks to the plague of 2020, we're all looking for interesting ways to pass the time - I'm no exception. Today, I started a fun project that combines low voltage, a Shelly 1, and my garage door. Depending on the kind of garage door opener you have, this project can be REALLY easy or it can be a little harder, but it isn't out of anybody's reach.

    Processing img iiqr9oows4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/001-Got-a-box.jpg

    I've had a Liftmaster garage door opener since 2013/14 and it has given solid service. I got the MyQ add-on, for notifications and control via app. If I forgot to close the door, I could from my phone. In theory, that was a great plan. In reality, I ran into a couple of complications. First, if my Internet went down or if MyQ's server had an outage, then I had to drive back home to open or close the door. Second, there was no way to offload local control to a home automation system to help mitigate the connectivity concern.

    Processing img 61ji7q9ys4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/002-Components.jpgI've also wanted to experiment with Shelly products on low voltage. This picture is one reason why. Do you have a box of these collecting dust at home? If any of them are 12v, or between 24v and 60v, you can use them to power the Shelly 1 for a variety of projects. The Shelly 1PM and Shelly 2.5 will also work with 24v to 60v, but most of my adapters are 12v. Also, the Shelly 1 has dry contacts, which makes it really flexible for different projects.

    Right now, the Shelly USA web store (HERE - not an affiliate link, just their web store) has a great sale on product bundles, so it is an excellent time to get your hands on some of their relays at an extra savings.

    Processing img q8fthsk2t4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/003-Bench-Test.jpg

    This is all you need to get started using the Shelly 1 with low voltage. The female barrel adapter I'm using here clearly marks which lead is positive and which is negative. PLEASE pay attention. Connect + to N and connect - to L. If you mix them up, you will smell magic smoke as it escapes. Also, if you use a higher voltage power adapter, make sure your barrel adapter is rated appropriately. This one is for 12v. Once I powered it up, I went through the standard setup to connect it to my WiFi and add it to my account.

    Processing img 1lo9xbm7t4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/004-Works.jpg
    I put together a test circuit on a breadboard to illustrate how easy this is. The Shelly 1 is powered by the 12v adapter (+ connected to N, - connected to L). I have a separate 12v feed to power the LED circuit (dry contacts, if you recall). I next connected + from the second power source to I and connected - to the breadboard at the resistor. The other leg of the resistor goes to the short leg of the LED. The long leg of the LED is connected to O on the Shelly 1.

    Processing img kbw2i1uit4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/005-These-Two.jpg

    It's THAT quick to set it up on a breadboard to test before you climb on a ladder. One thing you need to set here is under "Timer," enabling the Auto off function, with a setting of .25 seconds to mimic a momentary switch for your garage door opener.

    Now we discover if this is going to be the easy way or the fun way. Check the wiring harness for your garage door opener. Odds are, you'll have a couple of ports for the wall mounted button and a couple for your safety sensors. If they're all in two ports, you'll do this the easy way for sure! If there are 4 ports, connect your Shelly 1 in parallel to the button, with I connected to + and O connected to -. Tap the power button in the Shelly app. If your door opens, great! Put everything in an enclosure and you're done. See the red circle to show where mine are.

    Processing img bmxayoeot4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/005-These-Two.jpg

    If it doesn't open, don't worry - you can still automate this, the same way that I did.

    When I determined I can't wire in parallel to my button, I pulled the PCB and determined how it is powered. It connects to two low voltage wires and has 3 switches built in (door, light, PIR), so that means PWM. I connected leads from the garage door opener over head with two stainless steel screws and nuts.

    Processing img 3az347irt4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/007-Disassembled.jpg

    Next, I used a wire to jumper each of the buttons, finding that either of them will independently open the door. I soldered a lead to one leg on each side of the button.

    Processing img p2p8k0fut4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/010-Closeup.jpg

    Processing img eclzgwbxt4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/009-Soldered-To-Button.jpg

    See the red & white arrows in the first pic. I then connected O to one wire, I to the other, and powered up the Shelly 1 again to test.

    Processing img 8579u920u4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/011-Enclosure.jpg

    Once I've verified it worked, I found an old parts box from my Dad's tool box to mount everything in.

    Processing img xfbbnco2u4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/012-Fitted.jpg

    After drilling a hole for the wires and pulling them through, I sealed the box and put two sided tape on the back.

    Processing img z4e8jft4u4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/013-Connecting.jpg

    Back at the garage door opener, I inserted two leads into the terminals for the button, which I then split with Wago connectors - it can be tough getting multiple wires to fit in the terminals and I wanted to have shorter wires on the kit.

    Processing img vwqgkg47u4r41...

    http://blog.smarterhome.club/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/014-Finished.jpg

    Here's the final shot, with the 12v power adapter plugged in beside the garage door opener and the parts box secured to the side of it. Later on, I'll probably get a high quality enclosure and redo the wires with heat shrink tubing, just to make everything look more professional. All, told, though, with a UL listed Shelly 1 relay and a handful of junk parts, you can do this project for less than $20 bucks.

    I actually ordered a replacement button, so that I could keep one on the wall but also have one to experiment with. If you have a higher tolerance for "custom controls" in your house than there is in mine, or if you've got an easy power source and the ability to wire in the wall behind your existing button, skip that step and do everything there.

    Time to install? 45 minutes - including setting up an LED tester on a breadboard.

    https://preview.redd.it/6qooj89ur4r41.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b539f63100983d34bc0211f9edbf5a889b09d123

    submitted by /u/DreadVenomous
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    I’m probably not getting smart water monitoring, am I. (See 1st comment)

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 09:50 PM PDT

    Looking for a heavy duty 20a Z-Wave Switch

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 09:39 AM PDT

    I am going to install a bunch of receptacles on the outside of the front of my house

    I want them to be controlled so that I can turn them on and off at will

    The only switch I can find that will do 20a is stuff like this 40a switch

    https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/

    That will work fine, but I want to know if there is any better alternatives that are rated at 20a and are maybe smaller

    submitted by /u/xOhoKsDU9Va
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    I'm a g-suite user. WTF should i do? switch to alexa?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 08:42 PM PDT

    another google rant. I have my email through a personal domain and i have it setup with gsuite. it used to work great, never any issues. i swear google gets worse by the week. Currently i haven't been able to set reminders (it used to just fine). I also can't add my gf to my google home account because of course gsuite users cant share the home setup. I also can no longer control my lights with my phone screen off ("ok, but you need to unlock your phone first". also, my google homes seem to get stupider and stupider... not responding, needing me to repeat etc. it used to work awesome 95% of the time and now we're down to what seems like 66%

    any tips? whats my best course of action? i do have a different @gmail i use but it's not my main account. start over with one of those emails and just use it for automation? switch to alexa?

    submitted by /u/thebigdirty
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    Lutron Fan Control with Hunter Dempsey Fan

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 07:53 PM PDT

    also posted to Lutron forums

    I am trying to determine if fan control will work on the fans we have. we bought hunter Dempsey ceiling fans. They come with no pull chains and only a remote. I know this isn't the ideal situation for the Lutron fan control. Unfortunately the wife says the esthetics of the fan trump customizing controls.

    Can I do either of the following?

    1. Turn the remote on to full speed as you would the pull chain and then use the Lutron fan control.

    2. Install a Lutron on off switch 5a or 6a just to toggle the on or off of the fan.

    My ideal would be #1 but I don't think it is an option.

    submitted by /u/dmoniliano
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    With Ikea not doing in-store pickup anymore, is there any way to get Ikea smart blinds any more?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 07:52 PM PDT

    I've been looking at getting smart blinds for the past few months and I've been calling my local Ikea waiting for some more to come in. They have a few that I need, but I was trying to get as many as I could in one trip, or at least get ones for a whole area or section of the house so it wouldn't look crazy. Now that they are not doing in-store pick up, and you can't order them online for delivery, are there any other ways to get them?

    submitted by /u/tjpoe
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    Looking for a single-gang remote able to control Alexa/Smartthings groups/scenes

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 05:53 PM PDT

    I've got a four-gang wallplate with a redundant switch. I was thinking about adding a smart-switch that controlled a specific group of smart lights/plugs (in this case a group of outdoor lights, which are connected to Smartthings and by extension Alexa).

    Does such a product exist? Even if it were a single "dumb" smart switch, I could have the lights/group set to turn off if that switch were turned off, for instance.

    I don't have an extra circuit at the location otherwise I'd just add a generic smart switch.

    Any ideas?

    submitted by /u/Austrunano
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    Water leak detection.

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 05:37 PM PDT

    I'm looking for a good low voltage device that will integrate with my alarm panel for water leaks and turn off the water main. For valves I used to install watercop but they are way over priced. I'd like to stay in the 12vdc range but I could do 24vdc. I already know how to do the programming just need suggestions on hardware.

    submitted by /u/DedifferentiatedMuse
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    Are there any renter-friendly smart switch options?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 11:11 AM PDT

    Since I can't use smart plugs in the surface mount LED ceiling lights in my apartment, I've been looking into using smart switches instead. However so far it looks like the only options are "permanent" in the eyes of a landlord.

    I'm about ready to give up and just have some WiFi enabled lamps alongside the physical-switch dumb lights built into my apartment, but I wanted to check with the pros here before I totally gave up.

    submitted by /u/infinitejester7
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    Do I need to jump in with two feet? Or can I keep it simple?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 01:44 PM PDT

    I'm a relative smart home rookie in my eyes- I have some Google Home products, sengled bulbs, and a couple smart plugs. We're moving soon and I've been planning a few projects - the first one seems pretty simple: I'd like a motion sensor to activate an LED strip undeath the kitchen cabinets.

    Specifically I've been looking at the Wyze motion sensors. For the light strip... Does it matter? I've been looking at generic ones on Amazon.

    Is this project possible through something like IFTTT? Or do I need to jump in with Home Assistant and the like? I'm not sure if HA will be my style from what I've read, but I don't know if it's necessary. I'd also like to set a schedule if possible i.e. lights will only come on if it's after 7pm.

    I've looked for answers but can't seem to find the specific response I'm looking for. I appreciate any insight!

    submitted by /u/albrechtmc
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    Somfy vs Bali shades?

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 09:33 AM PDT

    Hi,

    I've been researching smart motorized shades for what feels like forever....

    I've narrowed my choices down to Bali Autoview (Zwave it looks like) or Somfy (unsure if these are zigbee or RTS with a hub needed?). I'm likely going to control them using home assistant likely, perhaps homekit - I have both. The pricing at springs blinds or blinds galore put them virtually equal in price about 250-350 per shade. That price range matches the budget I'm willing to pay for shades.

    I ruled out the Ikea shades, not a big fan of grey, they are always out of stock, no valance. Who knows when the Ikea stores will even open again - may, perhaps June.....

    Anyone have any thoughts on the quality of Bali or Somfy and which is likely to be higher quality/reliable long term? It would also be nice to know if either will also report state changes to Home Assistant when toggled with the remote.

    submitted by /u/BlueMonkeyNC
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    Smart switch to control 15a outlet

    Posted: 05 Apr 2020 05:48 AM PDT

    Hi all, I've got two outdoor lights and an outdoor 15A outlet that are all controlled by a single light switch. I installed a Lutron Caseta smart switch (PD-6ANS-WH) in place of the light switch to control the lights and the outlet, but I stupidly plugged a chop saw into the outdoor outlet and fried the switch because the switch can only support up to 6A / 720w.

    Does anyone know of a smart switch that works with Alexa and can support a 15A outlet?

    submitted by /u/often_wr0ng
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