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    Home Automation Setup Grafana to monitor home devices' status from my router

    May 13, 2020

    Home Automation Setup Grafana to monitor home devices' status from my router

    Setup Grafana to monitor home devices' status from my router

    Posted: 12 May 2020 10:38 AM PDT

    Wink moves subscription deadline to 5/20/2020

    Posted: 12 May 2020 02:33 PM PDT

    How long can a USB cable be for power delivery.

    Posted: 12 May 2020 05:29 AM PDT

    I'm planning to use a hue motion sensor in my mailbox to get notifications when my mail arrive, but it is too far away from my house, so I'm planning to use a ikea zigbee repeater on the half way, I want to avoid messing around with mains power outside, so my plan is to make a long USB cable (maybe 20m) and put the repeater in a waterproof box. (the repeater from ikea is a usb dongle and a power supply.

    Is this a bad idea? Voltage drop issues?

    submitted by /u/potedesballj
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    Converting dumb devices to Wi-Fi smart devices with D1 mini and Raspberry Pi

    Posted: 12 May 2020 12:19 PM PDT

    I have devices like humidifier, fans, lights that have momentary buttons, so I can't turn them on/off via off the shelf Wi-Fi power sockets.

    I'm considering soldering them with D1 mini modules to allow these dumb devices to communicate with a Raspberry Pi, which controls them, and runs a web server, etc.

    Questions

    • Is this a reasonable strategy?
    • How should the D1 minis connect to the network? Should they connect to the home router, or to the Raspberry Pi as a hotspot? Connecting to router means more devices cluttering the home network, connecting to Pi as hotspot means it would need a second USB Wi-Fi to connect to the home network, or via LAN cable.
    • How should the D1 mini communicate with Pi? HTTP requests, MQTT over Wi-Fi, or something else?
    • Are there existing Raspberry Pi software I could use or get inspiration from?

    I would like the solution to be robust and works locally, i.e. no cloud, IFTTT, etc. Software programming is not a problem.

    submitted by /u/robo555
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    Looking for a Z-wave switch that is only a 2-way rocker

    Posted: 12 May 2020 11:12 PM PDT

    I've got a number of different Z-wave switches around the house - Jasco (both GE and Honeywell), Aeotec, Enerwave, Inovelli.

    Mechanically and aesthetically speaking (ignoring electrical compatibility for a moment), I'd classify them into two groups - direct replacements for a Decora paddle switch (i.e. you touch the actual Z-wave device when using manually), and in-box, where what you touch is often an actual Decora-style SPST switch, and the Z-wave unit lives behind the switch in the wall box.

    I like the simplicity and features if the direct-replacement style except that they all seem to have three-way rocker switches. I like the functionality of the in-box products because to the end user, it looks and acts just like a regular and familiar two-way rocker switch.

    I have been unable to find a product that is the best of both - a direct replacement Z-wave switch that has just a two-positon rocker. I understand that Z-wave switches can be controlled either directly or remotely, and it's been traditional to go with a three-way paddle for unambiguous direct control. However, conventional (non automated) 3-way and 4-way switches are really common these days, so it's not like people are stumped when the hall lights are off and the rocker is in the up position. It's pretty intuitive - arguably more intuitive than someone trying to figure out a three way paddle that hasn't used one before (like a houseguest....or grandma).

    So here's the question: Why doesn't anyone seem to make a direct-install Z-wave switch with a two-positon toggle (that can replace a conventional 3-way switch)?

    submitted by /u/hikeonpast
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    Alexa Koffee automation

    Posted: 12 May 2020 10:51 PM PDT

    Hello, So I am new to home automation but I have an idea for a routine using Alexa, and I don't know how to do it or weather it's even possible.

    So I would like to have Alexa ask me (when I start my morning routine) if I would like some coffee, if I answer yes she will start the smart plug if not, she will continue the routine. That's the first part :)

    Next, I am planning to buy a coffee maker that has the option to make a latte or cappuccino So I would like to know if Alexa could do a follow up question and ask me what kind of coffee I would like and then tell the coffee maker to start.

    Is something like thst even possible? Best regards

    submitted by /u/ralof32
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    Hi, all! I'm a developer who recently built an Alexa Skill and and Google Assistant App, Grillme, that lets you get quizzed by your assistant while you're busy around the house. Thought some folks in this community might find it useful as a part of their home automation: https://grillme.dev/.

    Posted: 12 May 2020 07:03 AM PDT

    Control Alexa device from smart things app

    Posted: 12 May 2020 09:50 PM PDT

    Hi there,

    I have a smart things hub and an alexa dot device. I have two Philips hue bulbs i am looking to control from the smart things app. I do not have a hue bridge so that i can connect the bulbs to the smart things hub directly.

    I am wondering if there is a way to control the alexa devices from the smatthings app. I read a few articles that suggested this was possible by setting up a virtual switch from smartthings then using a bit of custom code somewhere. I have no idea where to start with that. I was also wondering if i could use something like ifttt to accomplish the same goal.

    This whole thing started because amazon doesn't let you share devices between household members. Samsung does this much better, but alexa was my single pane of glass up until this point unfortunately. GF finds the voice commands cumbersome to use all the time.

    Thank you

    submitted by /u/tkmoney01
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    Wink refugee here, which hub will work with my current list of devices the best?

    Posted: 12 May 2020 05:48 PM PDT

    Probably getting a lot of these posts but would like to know what exactly I'll need to get to replace the damn Wink

    I got:

    Bali Autoview Z-Wave Window Blinds

    GoControl Garage Door Opener

    GoControl Door and Window Sensors

    Lutron Castea lights and Pico Switches

    Schlage Connect Door locks

    Phillips Hue bulbs

    GE Zwave Light bulbs

    Ring Doorbell Pro (Used for motion detection to trigger other stuff)

    Arlo Q and Arlo Pro (Same, use video motion / sound to trigger stuff)

    Nest CO2 / Smoke detectors (triggers stuff)

    ​

    In terms of integration with other devices, I use Amazon Echo heavily, as well as Life360 (Geofencing triggers) and IFFT and Yonomi for automation

    Local is a nice to have but going cloud is also fine. Having a good phone app is a must (especially for the wife)

    ​

    At first, I was thinking a Hubitat and Lutron Pro bridge should handle everything above, but now im not so sure (especially with products like Ring, etc). Would Smart things and Lutron Bridge be the way to go?

    submitted by /u/futuretrollshark
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    Motorized Skylight Shades with Simple DC Motor Controller

    Posted: 12 May 2020 09:15 PM PDT

    Besides RollerTrol, are there any other manufacturers that make motorized skylight shades that can be controlled with a simple double pole double throw switch? Most of them seem to have a built-in RF remote control system.

    submitted by /u/merp_alert
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    What challenges do you face in getting started with home automation? I am doing research for a comprehensive online course.

    Posted: 12 May 2020 08:57 PM PDT

    Lutron switch for bathroom fan and heater

    Posted: 12 May 2020 04:17 PM PDT

    I'm switching over to Lutron Caseta switches. I have a bathroom fan that has one switch for the fan and one for the heater. They are both on the same breaker. I hooked up two PD-6ANS switches. The fan works great, but the heater turns on and then immediately goes into low power.

    Is there a Lutron option that can handle the heater load, or should I just use a z-wave switch?

    submitted by /u/RedWarFour
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    Looking for MyQ alternative with builtin Alexa support and compatible with Home Assistant

    Posted: 12 May 2020 07:59 PM PDT

    I'm looking for something as simple as MyQ to install with full Alexa support. Also support for Home Assistant. Google Home/Assistant support would be a bonus.

    submitted by /u/mkanet
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    Schlage BE469 (pairing issue) removed from Wink, not adding to Smartthings

    Posted: 12 May 2020 07:18 AM PDT

    My Schlage lock is no longer in Wink. I put the Wink in exclusion mode and everything is gone from there. So far so good.

    Now, in ST, I try to pair and am failing with the fun red X. I remember having issues pairing this thing when I replaced my Wink hub with a 2 a few years back. I've reset the lock numerous times. I'm scratching my head as I do not believe I missed anything, other than the Wink hub possibly holding on to the lock for some reason but not showing it.

    I searched but I could not find any good definitive answer on how to do this. Sorry if I missed a post here describing it.

    submitted by /u/evilwon12
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    Wiring two lights switches into one switch

    Posted: 12 May 2020 03:00 PM PDT

    Hi guys!

    Looking to see if I can wire two light switches into one smart switch in my bathroom. One switch controls a set of lights above my mirror, and the other one controls the ceiling lights.

    Instead of two switches, control them both with one smart switch (zooz 21 probably) I can also control remotely. I have two thoughts on this and am wondering how to get it to work.

    Lights typically have four wires for clarifications sake - line (power) , load (to light), neutral and ground.

    My initial thought is to daisy chain them and "force" one switch to be on all time (scotch tape holding the paddle up). Here I would hook up one switch normally, however daisy chain an extra "load" wire from the smart switch to the dumb switch where the line input would normally be. I would have to isolate the other line wire or I assume I could add it to the smart switch in order to have one less loose wire around.

    Another option is to have one switch not have any wires (would stay there for cosmetics sake as I'm not that advanced in closing up a gang box), and have both load wires coming from the one smart switch.

    Assuming the load is within the limit for the switch do you see any issues with one or the other? I probably will consult an electrician after this but wanted to get some advice from someone who may have done it before.

    Thanks for your help everyone.

    submitted by /u/BolshevikPower
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    Wifi potentiometer

    Posted: 12 May 2020 06:02 PM PDT

    Do you know if I can get a wifi controlable potentiometer, compatible with Google Home?
    All I can find is on/off switches, but I want to be able to tell Google to set this to x %.

    Thanks in advance.

    submitted by /u/qohelet1212
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    Helping Uncle Plan for Home Automation, Networking, and Smartiness.

    Posted: 12 May 2020 02:01 PM PDT

    My uncle and aunt are buying their first house and want to wire it for ethernet, it was built in 1999 and has a basement and 2 other floors. It also has a dock and they need internet there for a projector and his phone. Here's what I was thinking/recommending him, any feedback would be appreciated.

    Products Needed:

    1 Arris Modem $80

    1 USG $120

    1 Computer (any kind that can run the Unifi Controller 24/7) I recommend an old desktop from eBay $75

    1000ft of blue Cat6A for general devices, 1000 ft of orange CAT6 for security and 500 ft red cat6a for access points. $600

    1 Switch 24 port $75

    RJ45 Connectors $25

    3 Unifi NanoHD $375

    Cameras $900

    Eufy Video Doorbell $140

    1 Unifi Outdoor AP $199

    Cat6A Keystone $50

    2 port Wall Plate Insert $19

    Wall Plates $70

    Coax Wire $90

    Coax Keystone $10

    1-port Wall Plate Insert $10

    OPTIONAL:

    Patch Panel $90

    Battery Backup $150

    Server Rack with Key $310

    Cable Boots $12

    Conduit HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMMEND USING IT! $150

    Running a cable to the dock$140

    Switch for dock $60

    RJ45 Connectors for outdoor cable (may not need)

    Total Cost with Optional Added is: $3,750.00

    Security System: Abode or SimpliSafe

    Dock Projector: $1100

    AppleTV: $200

    Dock Projector Cover: $400

    Projection Screen: $100

    Apple TV Remote Cover: $7

    Smart Home Recommendations:

    Thermostat- Ecobee 3 Lite

    Speakers: SONOS COMPLETELY WIRELESS! Besides Ethernet (optional) and Power

    Lighting: Inovelli Red Series w/ Addon Switches ← CHEAPER OPTION or Lutron Caseta w/ Pico Remotes ← LUXURY/WELLKNOWN OPTION

    PROS AND CONS OF EACH

    INOVELLI → Has led bar for notifications also can be used to lock a door or trigger goodnight mode

    LUTRON CASETA → Has Remote Controls (Inovelli Coming Soon)

    Doorbell: Eufy Video Doorbell

    Garage Door: MyQ

    Smart Remote: Logitech Harmony

    Smart Light Bulbs: Sengled

    Shades: MySmartBlinds or Lutron Serena

    Smart Speaker: Alexa built into SONOS since Homepod doesn't have spotify

    Robot Vacuum: Roomba i7

    Robot Mop:

    Smart Hub: Home Assistant

    Thanks for looking! Any feedback again would be appreciated.

    submitted by /u/Apple2T4ch
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    Screw wink, went a monthly fee so I’m out. What’s recommended?

    Posted: 12 May 2020 05:45 PM PDT

    Just don't want a reoccurring fee for something I paid that much for and only given 2-3 weeks notice.

    Using mostly lutron switches and iHome plugs.

    submitted by /u/sgtwtf22
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    PoE to micro USB for Google Mini / Echo in ceiling

    Posted: 12 May 2020 11:13 AM PDT

    I ran cat6 to a bunch of ceiling locations throughout my home for APs and Google minis or echos in the ceiling.

    What would be the best solution to get power to these devices? I don't need the data part of PoE right now just the power part, but my understanding with PoE is the devices have to negotiate the power being sent so while I have seen the PoE to micro usb sink side solutions I'm not sure if that would work if there was no data device on the receiving end.

    Thoughts on how to approach?

    submitted by /u/shoeman22
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    Having trouble finding a good Wink hub replacement

    Posted: 12 May 2020 05:13 AM PDT

    Good morning. I am looking to migrate from Wink. I had thought I could move to Hubitat, but it seems some of my installed devices are not supported on that platform: Connected Bulb Remotes and Caseta Wireless Dimmers with Pico Remote. I'd like to migrate to something which requires purchase of only one new piece of hardware / hub. I'm finding this quite confusing - what have other Lutron users found to be easy to use? Thanks!!

    submitted by /u/phasedweasel
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    What are the actual downsides of Wi-Fi switches vs something like Lutron?

    Posted: 12 May 2020 03:30 PM PDT

    I've been reading up on the different options available for wall switches and everyone seems to recommend Lutron Casetta despite almost double the cost without really explaining what makes them so much better. I've only seen two explanations so far and I'm wondering if that's all there is to it or if I'm missing something:

    1. Uptime/Reliability: some people who have used both claim to have had issues with WiFi switches dropping their connection which is remedied by Putting with a proprietary radio band.

    2. Wifi congestion: since wifi switches would require individual IP addresses, you'd be clogging up your network whereas the Lutron would only be one extra device on the network.

    Both points seem like a valid reason to prefer the Lutron devices, but of your network is able to handle the extra devices, is there any reason to shell out the extra $ for Casetta? For example, my home network consists of several Ubiquiti nanoHD access points, a dumb switch, a smart switch (the networking kind), and a Ubiquiti security gateway router. I'm fairly confident that the current setup can handle ~20-40 more devices (average around 20 currently). In that case, would I be okay to just go with something like TPLink Kasa switches and do it for 50% of the price of a Lutron system?

    Even if I need to beef up my networking, it seems like it would be cheaper to do that than to spend twice as much on each switch if I'm replacing more than 15 or so. Also, worst case scenario, if a switch drops it's connection, it just temporarily becomes a dumb switch right?

    I just wanted to know what potential pitfalls I may be overlooking as this is my first real smart home project.

    submitted by /u/mdcd4u2c
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    Simple doorbell (camera not necessary) that will send me phone notifications for a faraway mailbox with no WiFi?

    Posted: 12 May 2020 11:08 AM PDT

    Hi all,

    I'm moving to a house that is set on a gated lot with two other houses. Mailboxes are outside the gate near the street. My place is the second house back, which means it's about 20 yards away from the mailbox. Since delivery people won't be allowed access into the gate, I'm hoping to affix a wireless doorbell on the mailbox so that fedex/ups/usps can just ring it to let me know a package has arrived so it's not just sitting out on the street.

    Any suggestions? I don't need anything fancy like a camera, just want to be notified when something arrives.

    Thank you for any suggestions!

    submitted by /u/ohroprz
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    I'm building a new home. Opinions on my system?

    Posted: 12 May 2020 02:53 PM PDT

    Hi.

    I'm building a new home from scratch, and since it's not something one gets to do many times in his life, I want to make it smart and future proof, so I'm installing a fully wired KNX system.

    Bear in mind that while I work in tech, I'm a newbie when it comes to smart home, so I want your advice on what I have planned so I can adjust or take inspiration from your experiences.

    Some background, the house is a 3 bathrooms / 4 bedrooms (one will be used as office) two-story house with a garage for two cars. It's not massive, 260m2 (2800sqrf) including the garage and porche.

    It is also worth noting for those of you in the US that as it's common here, no drywall or wood is used, everything is brick, stone, steel and concrete. This has some advantages and in this case one massive disadvantage: Wiring it after it has been built is much harder and expensive, so I'd rather get things right now.

    ​

    It has solar panels and an efficient heat pump for hot water and heated floors. Also as it's common here, no AC, just a mechanical ventilation system with pipes for every room with a heat recuperator for winter and a fancoil in cool water for efficient yet mild refreshing (cools outside air around 2°C/4°F), but enough for the my coastal summers.

    ​

    The smart home system as I have it planned. Everything is subject to change:

    • Controls every light (except a couple inside closets). Uses the dalli system, and many are dimmable.
    • Controls every blind
    • Controls the heating/ventilation.
    • Presence+light sensors in living room, kitchen, hall, stairs and corridor. I'm sitting on the fence about if I should put them on every single room.
    • The 4-buttoned KNX pushers I've chosen happen to integrate temp sensors, so I have like 18 readings to control the heating.
    • I'm wiring with 10GB (cat 8) capable ethernet cable most rooms (except bathrooms), along with the ceiling for the mesh-wifi access points. I'll have ethernet wall sockets in the living room, kitchen, office and installation room (where all the guts of the system will be, along with the solar inverter, heat pump and such)
    • 2 Ubiquiti AP, one per floor.
    • 3 PoE IP cameras outdoor, and a recorder, probably some hikvision set.
    • IP Video Intercom for the pedestrian door (the property has a wall), probably this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TW-K5pFtcVg
    • Ceiling speakers in the living room and kitchen, and since I'm a happy sonos play:5 owner, probably powered by Sonos Amp. The rest of the rooms will have to use some alexa smart speaker, either sonos ones or some amazon echo.
    • Every room will have an Alexa device.
    • Actuators for opening the front gate of the property and the garage.
    • Another actuator for opening/closing the pool cover.
    • Two electrovalves for controlling the watering system.
    • Two small (4.5inch) touch screens, one per floor.
    • 4 controlled plugs in the house, in kitchen/living.
    • Fire alarm (based on temperature, not smoke)
    • Door handles with fingerprint/code for accessing the property and the house, probably the Xiaomi Aqara n100/200.
    • TV will be recessed on the wall over the fireplace, so I'll have ethernet/hdmi/rca wired to a cabinet where amps and mutimedia/gaming systems will be.
    • The knx IP server, in this case a Homelynk/Wiser from Scheneider Electric, as it most of the equipment.
    • A few of the sockets, mostly where it makes sense (bedside tables for instance) will have USB-A/USB-C included: https://www.se.com/ww/en/product/WDE002174/exxact%2C-schuko-so-w-usb-a%2Bc-3a%2C-white/?range=60117-exxact&parent-category-id=5600

    ​

    Things I considered but ruled out or decided to save money on:

    • Magnetic sensors in windows and doors. Wiring that was expensive and having a ventilation system you don't have to open the windows all that often. I might consider zigbee/zwave sensors in the future.
    • Same for flood sensors. While wired is better for actuators, wireless sensors are acceptable and much cheaper shall I ever decide to include them.
    • I need to investigate if adding homemade stuff like raspberry pi with home assistant will bring something to the table.
    • I don't think I'll have rgb lamps. I have one already in my current home and honestly I've only changed the colors 3/4 times to make my 1yo laugh.

    ​

    I take advice. Would you recommend presence sensors everywhere? ¿Any other kind of sensor I haven't considered? ¿Any multimedia trick?

    submitted by /u/cibernox
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