Home Automation Anyone have a better way to get my S5 to clean automatically when everyone leaves the house? |
- Anyone have a better way to get my S5 to clean automatically when everyone leaves the house?
- Silicon Labs released low-cost EFR32 Wireless Gecko Series 2 Zigbee Development Starter Kit
- Anyone have experience with Wulian Smart Home appliances?
- Motion sensor outlet that turn off when it detects motion?
- How can I add commands to a google home mini?
- Track Lighting Issues
- Convert IR to RF
- Anyone know to fix douglas hunter blinds that are loose?
- Shelly 1 Reliability
- Best Home Automation Setup For Under $1500 CAN (or $1000 USD)?
- Recessed lighting control options
- Wiring smart switch to whole house fan conundrum
- Pool Lights with RF - Any Suggestions?
- Best home automation + bio hacking data
- Anyone have any experience with a device called SmarterHome that lets you bridge a vantage controls system to homekit?
- Any issues with multiple hue bridges and google home?
- Control Kasa Switch with X10?
- LAN controllable smart plug?
Anyone have a better way to get my S5 to clean automatically when everyone leaves the house? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 05:37 AM PDT
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Silicon Labs released low-cost EFR32 Wireless Gecko Series 2 Zigbee Development Starter Kit Posted: 26 Jun 2020 01:26 AM PDT Silicon Labs released a low-cost EFR32 Wireless Gecko Series 2 Zigbee Development Starter Kit for $99 This official development kit is relatively inexpensive since it also officially gives you full access to the same SDK and licensed use of Silabs Zigbee Stack as their previous relatively expensive Development Starter Kit (which at $479 cost a lot more). Google search on SKU "SLWSTK6021A" shows that it is in stock by many resellers/distributors globally (like for example Arrow, Digikey, and Mouser). https://www.silabs.com/products/development-tools/wireless/efr32xg22-wireless-starter-kit It has also been confirmed by Zigbee2mqtt developers that the $99 Development Kit gives you access/license to all versions of Silabs Zigbee Stack for all its previous, current, and future EFR32 Mighty Gecko family chips compatible with Zigbee as well as the older EM35x family chips. The downsides are that this $99 development kit only contains one development board and two low-powered (+6dBm) radio boards compared three development board and six high-powered radio boards. You can, however, to get a matching high-powered (+20dBm) radio board you can for around $49 also purchase SKU "SLWRB4180A" with is the same type of EFR32MG21 radio board that comes with the more expensive development kit. High-powered means that it has long-range but needs to be mains-powered/line-powered (which you probably want from a Zigbee coordinator/gateway/bridge/hub/controller or device acting as a Zigbee router/repeater), and low-power means that it has a short-range but can be battery operated (which you probably want from a Zigbee end-device). [link] [comments] | ||
Anyone have experience with Wulian Smart Home appliances? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 09:01 PM PDT I'll caveat this post by saying that I don't have much experience with home automation. I'm reasonably technologically savvy, but haven't dabbled in automation given I have primarily been renting. I have recently moved into a new townhouse rental that is complete with a home automation system, however I do not recognise the brand. I had a quick look at the app but after asking for permission to use my camera and access files on my phone, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth regarding it. The various systems by the brand in the house include a passcoded/fingerprint front door, motion sensors for lighting, motorised curtains and humidity control. I am also unable to find the Smart Gateway control centre that would link all of these devices. A full strength wifi is showing on my phone with the acronym for what I'm assuming is the control centre with the number corresponding to my unit. A sheet was left in my unit with a photo of all various Wulian brand systems potentially installed, as well as a host of empty boxes for motion sensors etc. Alarmingly, this included a cloud 1080p camera's empty box and I have been unable to locate the camera inside the unit. (I had asked the neighbours about it and the camera was massive, it would be hard to miss if it was in plain sight.) Does this sound like an odd situation to anyone, or am I being somewhat paranoid? [link] [comments] | ||
Motion sensor outlet that turn off when it detects motion? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 08:34 PM PDT Is there a motion sensor outlet that will turn OFF when sensing a movement instead of turning on? Or any other suggestions? Basically I'm trying to have the outlet to turned off an appliance plugged into it whenever the sensor detects movements (cats) around. Thx! [link] [comments] | ||
How can I add commands to a google home mini? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 01:54 PM PDT | ||
Posted: 26 Jun 2020 05:12 PM PDT Hello. I have a track lighting fixture with 10 bulbs in it that I've been trying to fit with smart bulbs. I currently have 6 LE LampUX WiFi BR30 bulbs which are controlled via an echo. When I install more than about 6 smart bulbs, they just flicker rather than actually turn on. My current workaround is having the 6 smart bulbs and 4 regular bulbs. Is this maybe an issue with having wifi bulbs rather than something hub controlled? Anybody else have any experience with this type of situation? TIA! [link] [comments] | ||
Posted: 26 Jun 2020 02:40 PM PDT Without going into to much detail, I have a robot hoover that is controlled by an IR remote. Is there a way to change the IR to RF so it can be controlled via Goggle Home and a RF hub? Thanks [link] [comments] | ||
Anyone know to fix douglas hunter blinds that are loose? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 08:32 AM PDT
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Posted: 26 Jun 2020 01:34 PM PDT I recently got into home automation and have since installed a handful of Shelly 1 and Sonoff basics. One of the Shelly 1's I installed would not switch the output when it got 120V at the "SW" input. I took it out and bench tested to make sure it was getting 120V at "SW", which it was, but it did not change the state of the output. I ended up putting a new one in its place and it worked fine. That said, this has made me question the reliability of these devices. Curious what others have seen for reliability. I would rather not have something in wall that won't last long. [link] [comments] | ||
Best Home Automation Setup For Under $1500 CAN (or $1000 USD)? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 12:15 PM PDT Hi there, hope you are all doing well today. TGIF. As the title states, I'm looking for some recommendations. There are SO MANY different things and gadgets that all look awesome, but I can't seem to prioritize or know which brands to purchase. I'm moving into my new home July 5th with my wife, and she's on board with the smart-proofing the house. But, to a limit of course. I can't break our bank. I'm sure all your answers will include "but this is a personal thing, YOU must decide." I'm not here for the one perfect answer from a stranger who knows me better than I know me. I'm looking for some recommendations what YOU think are super cool/important to have in your home, all within the budget I've laid out in the title. I have both an echo dot, and a google home mini. I've read that echo dots are better for home automation because they sync with more products? Is this even true? I prefer the google home mini, only because it apparently gives better, more accurate answers to questions and doesn't read what you say LITERALLY. Side note, I will be purchasing a Smart TV on top of this budget. Any smart TV recommendations? Looking for a 60+ inch screen. Hope you have yourselves a wonderful weekend! [link] [comments] | ||
Recessed lighting control options Posted: 26 Jun 2020 11:03 AM PDT So, are there any smart recessed lighting retrofit kits that meet the following:
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Wiring smart switch to whole house fan conundrum Posted: 26 Jun 2020 11:00 AM PDT Hello all, I've got a little conundrum. Bought a TP LINK single pole smart switch. Comes with a a ground, a neutral and two black wires. Everything i read says the neutral is required. I know there's other switches out there that don't require it but all of my other smart switches and lights are TP LINK. Just trying to stick with the same environment for simplicity. And they're the cheapest smart switches I've seen :) My issue is that my whole house fan switch that I'm trying to replace with the TP LINK only had one white and one black wire in the box. Bummer i know. BUT i have a light switch for the hall lights 2 inches away right next to it that's full of wires and everything i need but in a separate box. House fan is directly above both of these switches in the attic. There is no stud between the two boxes. I do have access to the attic. Basically I'm looking for the easiest way to either get a ground and neutral from the light switch box over to the house fan box without making it look like shit. It's not close enough to throw a jumbo plate over and cover up the gap. Or if there's another way to wire it that i havent found in all my searches, that would be super helpful. I'm fairly comfortable with basic home wiring but also think if running a new neutral and all that is too much, which it may be, then i may have to just opt for a different more expensive switch. I do understand I'll only be able to hardwire wire it at a high or low speed which is fine. I'm always up for a little challenge and willing to learn this with your help as it'll be knowledge i have for the rest of my life and future projects :) it's just not something I've done before running wire through the house.. only outside of it. Assume it's the same concept though. Any guidance is appreciated! House was built in the 70s if that matters. [link] [comments] | ||
Pool Lights with RF - Any Suggestions? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 08:01 AM PDT I have colour LED lights in my pool, and am attempting to get them "smart" and into my home automation. The light module plugs into an outlet outside housed in a waterproof case, and is controlled by a single button RF remote that turns them on/off and cycles through colors and transition effects. I figured I could just throw an outdoor smartplug in between the lights and outlet. The thought was that if I left the lights on via RF remote, then toggled the power off on the smartplug, the next power on cycle via the smartplug would turn them on. Of course, this doesn't work and the lights seem to power on in an off state each time power is supplied via the smartplug. Still requires the RF signal transmission to get them on. In the instruction manual, there is reference to this: Does this mean that if I remove the wireless transmitter (or perhaps just delete all RF codes) that it can just be switch/plug controlled? Effectively, I'm hoping not to integrate some RF piece into the smarts... Just wanting to leverage the on/off function of the smartplug. Any suggestions? Wireless Remote: [link] [comments] | ||
Best home automation + bio hacking data Posted: 26 Jun 2020 04:10 AM PDT Hi All, Newbie here,I am thinking of buying and using Fibraro HC3 basically for Home Automation and recording all my biohacking results. Currently I do not have a dedicated hub of any kind,but have 4 x Google Home 10 x Sonoff devices 1 x withings scale 1 x omron blood pressure monitor 1 x Nokia Sleep sensor 4 x Google Nest IQ outdoor 1 x Mi Box for TV 1 x ismart gate and utilise IFTTT . Heavily utilse wi-fi ,so I would like to get views /ideas if Fibraro HC3 is the right hub for me,will I be limited by 3rd party applications or devices,will i suffer from drop outs?, will i get affected by lagging?,the above lit will be growing as i will be adding more sonoff devices for controlling lights and motions sensors. Can i use Fibaro hc 3 with my existing device ,i heard fibaro is powerful and also custom based setup with programming. or should i look for another hub? [link] [comments] | ||
Posted: 26 Jun 2020 05:51 AM PDT I'm looking into getting a device called SmarterHome from SmarterHome.io and was wondering if anyone here has any experience with this device, or any experience bridging a vantage controls system to homekit using a Rpi. Any reviews or recommendations would be appreciated, thanks. [link] [comments] | ||
Any issues with multiple hue bridges and google home? Posted: 26 Jun 2020 05:41 AM PDT | ||
Posted: 26 Jun 2020 04:23 AM PDT In 2007 I put my house on X10 Switches. I like the wall switch remotes that you can stick anywhere to control lights. One of these remote light switches I put on my bed headboard. This way My wife and I can shut off the light from the bed, instead of walking across a dark room. So now that most of my lights are led and X10 doesnt work all that great with x10 unless you have relay switches everywhere. I dont like the x10 relay click, and I like dimmers, so I am thinking of switching over to Kasa. Is there a way to control the Kasa switches from my x10 remotes that I have (like the remote switch on my headboard)? If I do switch to kasa, I wont really be using my phone to control anything unless I am on vacation. I tend to set my phone down in the house and not touch it. Also I wont use alexa or anything like that. Mostly what I would like to set up is some motion switches that turn the lights to 50% during the night so that I dont wake my wife up entering the bedroom at night. I would also like to be able to have a way of shutting off all lights in the house from the bedroom. Would Kasa be a good fit? [link] [comments] | ||
Posted: 26 Jun 2020 03:16 AM PDT Hi Guys, I have a setup remotely which I occasionally need to toggle power. At the moment I need to travel to the setup to switch this on/off but it would be nice if there was an automated option for this. I looked at simply using a smart plug/switch but most of these rely on WiFi which I will not be able to use as the setup is on a corporate network. Are their any suggestions for a LAN switch which I could toggle on/off instead of relying on WiFi? Are their any otther ways I can get around this lack of WiFi limitation? [link] [comments] |
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