Home Automation Would like help designing my own Powerwall in a standard rackmount form-factor ... |
- Would like help designing my own Powerwall in a standard rackmount form-factor ...
- Regarding manners
- Pet locator?
- Outdoor outlet control
- New smart kitchen
- Most efficient and affordable lighting control system ?
- Linking Nest with Google home
- I have an Alexa / Smart Life Wifi Smartplug and want to turn a water pump on for 10 minutes and off for 50 and repeat indefinitely
- Cosori Smart Air Fryer with Google home
- Physical button pusher/switch flipper?
- Do Philips Hue bulbs last longer than ordinary Philips LED bulbs?
- Building a new home - how should I prewire for led light strips?
- looking for Wi-fi enabling old garage door opener
- New build no neutral in light switches?
- Extend zigbee network. Two plugs so far not helping
- Video Doorbell possible power problems
- Getting ready to renovate a house and move into it! I want to make it into a smarthome!
- Smart button: UK
- Best value Robot vacuum
- Can I plug a smart plug into a power strip?
- Use for Hue Bulbs with Lutron Caséta Setup
- Hue Installation Problems
- Security+ 2.0 with ESP8266/Konnected
| Would like help designing my own Powerwall in a standard rackmount form-factor ... Posted: 16 Jun 2020 05:04 PM PDT I don't like the Tesla powerwall because it's a proprietary, non-modular device that phones home and needs to get on my wifi and generally behaves like a piece of consumer electronics kit - like a nest or a Alexa device. BUT, I do have a need for a whole-house battery backup. I live in California and PG&E is going to cut the power for weeks at a time this fall. Some minor design notes: - I do not need automatic transfer - I am happy to lose power and manually switch from utility to battery - presumably with a locking transfer switch. - I am not going to power specific sub-panels - I am going to power the big, main panel and if we're too stupid to turn off the lights or not use the microwave, it will be our own dumb fault when the batteries only last two hours. - There is no solar. I am just a plain old, boring, utility customer. - I want this rackmounted in a 19" rack which I have already installed in my mechanicals room So ... with that in mind, I would like to find a unit like this: https://jag35.com/blogs/news/samsung-sdi-48v-ess-lithium-battery-rack-mount-modules ... but not those, since they are pulled out of service and the seller reports some of them have swelling/swollen cells and ... no no no. I keep thinking there must be a good way to do this with new, modern, UPS devices since they run to decent capacities and don't require me to build them myself ... for the price of a powerwall, I could purchase one of these with 3 or 4 modules: https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/ol10krtf/ ... and get 5 hours of low power usage (700-900 watts). But I worry about two specific items: - refrigerator/compressor start-up - that is the most crucial use-case here for us - These are lead-acid and not lithium-ion ... good ? bad ? - Is there a much more cost-effective way to do this with a different model / manufacturer ? I *know* I could do this for less money and probably have better near-term results with a natural gas powered generator but I want to not burn that fuel and I would like to have a electrical storage infrastructure that I can build up over time - eventually feeding with solar panels, and adding more capacity to, etc. It would make me very happy to have a nicely rackmounted set of batteries under the house for general purpose powering of the home. Comments ? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 09:13 PM PDT I have a very dumb question. I have not yet purchased any of the smart home things I plan to get, so I cannot test this myself. I plan to use an Alexa-based ecosystem, and I of course plan to make a ton of routines and IFTTT things and whatnot. My question involves saying "Please." It's in my nature to say please and thank you to...well...whatever I'm talking to. So will I need to include the word "Please" in any routine I create or will Alexa sort of filter out the please? Example: "Alexa, arm my security system please." Or "Alexa, please arm my security system". Versus just, "Alexa, arm my security system." Again, I don't own any of this stuff yet and have zero smart home experience. I couldn't easily find an answer online either. Thank you. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 08:40 PM PDT Is anyone aware of a smart things compatible pet locator. I'm looking for something that will make it easier to find the cats. So ideally I can determine which room they are hiding in, instead of playing check under all the furniture when I need to locate them. At some point I would also like to integrate it with automatic door closers. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 08:47 PM PDT Hi guys, I'm looking to control ambiance lights in my backyard and I would like to know if you had recommendations for a device that can be controlled from a smart phone (via wifi), but that would not need to be connected to the internet, just to my lan. I was thinking of some z-wave module, along with a z-wave USB stick and a raspberry pi, but I'm sure there's something simpler. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 17 Jun 2020 12:09 AM PDT I bought a new apartment. I am wondering what kitchen devices are worth to be connected to smart switches with/without power metering. What kitchen devices do you automate? Is it worth to plug i.e. fridge to on/off switch with power metering? [link] [comments] |
| Most efficient and affordable lighting control system ? Posted: 16 Jun 2020 10:50 PM PDT I'm an electrician who does a lot of Home Automation. I have come across some great lighting control systems such as Clipsal and Dynalite but they are very expensive. Lately, I've been seeing systems such as Environexus, Control 4 lighting and Fibaro which use Z wave or Zigbee. They are reasonably priced but they are so many issues with signal interference and faulty devices. Would just like to know if anyone out there uses something that is affordable and works well. [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 01:50 PM PDT So I set up a Google home with a couple minis and nest thermostat before I went back to college last year(maybe the year before but whatever) and then when I came back home for summer I noticed that the thermostat wasn't in the home anymore and neither was the nest cam. They both show up in the Nest app. I have tried to link it through the Google home all but it doesn't connect. Any ideas? Just make a new home and new Nest home? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 10:27 PM PDT If I use the Smart Life app I need to add a separate on and off function for every cycle. That would be twice per hour, and apparently the Smart Life app is only capable of 30 cycles (I would need 48 for twice per hour). The Alexa app would let me create a routine, but I would have to start the routine at a certain time, and add a series of turn outlet on/off/wait 10/50 minutes with 24 separate entries a piece which is incredibly tedious. Is there any easy solution for what I'm looking for? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Cosori Smart Air Fryer with Google home Posted: 16 Jun 2020 12:16 PM PDT Has anyone tried to sync the Cosori air Fryer to the google home system? We tried and the google home setup page, where we can add the Vesync account, crashes after typing in the username and password. [link] [comments] |
| Physical button pusher/switch flipper? Posted: 16 Jun 2020 08:20 PM PDT |
| Do Philips Hue bulbs last longer than ordinary Philips LED bulbs? Posted: 16 Jun 2020 07:45 PM PDT I'm planning to replace my ordinary Philips LED bulbs with Philips Hue. Will the Philips Hue bulbs last longer than the ordinary ones? Thanks in advance. [link] [comments] |
| Building a new home - how should I prewire for led light strips? Posted: 16 Jun 2020 05:28 AM PDT I'm new to the led light strip world. I like the idea of installing rgb strips throughout the house to be controlled by home assistant (voice/motion). I'm okay spending the money for Hue strips but I'm also okay with flashing a controller and going the DIY route if it's a better option. Locations I'm thinking: -baseboard toe kick of kitchen base cabinets -under cabinet lighting for kitchen wall cabinets -baseboard toe kick in guest bathroom on main floor -baseboard toe kick on master bath vanities on 2nd floor -front porch ceiling How should I think about prewiring? I will have an unfinished basement with central server rack where all home automation gear will be located. I'm wondering if I should try to centralize the power distribution and controllers in the server room. Or should I just make sure I have power outlets at each location of led lights (and locate power supply and controller locally). Or is there some other approach to locating the wiring and components? [link] [comments] |
| looking for Wi-fi enabling old garage door opener Posted: 16 Jun 2020 12:40 PM PDT A similar earlier post was locked a while ago, but i am trying to add wi-fi/app capabilities to my garage door opener (~20 years old craftsman). I've done some research, but am looking for some recommendations on what is best, to wire, reliable. and doesn't break my current system for two garage doors. I've looked at the following but still undecided: MyQ, meross, nexx and tailwind. Questions/requirements -
Appreciate any feedback. [link] [comments] |
| New build no neutral in light switches? Posted: 16 Jun 2020 06:11 PM PDT I have a newly built home in Ontario and some of the light switches such as in the master bed have no neutral , is this normal? Was hoping to get smart switches installed. I opened a couple others and they seem to have neutrals but it's a bit confusing. https://i.imgur.com/VL53Av9.jpg this is the one I think has a neutral. [link] [comments] |
| Extend zigbee network. Two plugs so far not helping Posted: 16 Jun 2020 02:16 PM PDT I have some fans outside that I have the hampton bay zigbee controllers in. The remotes work, and it's paired to smartthings and works if I put my hub in just the right location. This is an impractical location but I wanted to get it working, and it does work. So I ordered a tradfri plug, and then a sylvannia zigbee plug. Both add to smartthings no problem, but I can't get the fans to work. I tried healing the mesh by leaving the hub unplugged for a while. So what next? more plugs? Move them closer? Is a v3 smarthings hub a stronger zigbee mesh? What would you do? [link] [comments] |
| Video Doorbell possible power problems Posted: 16 Jun 2020 08:58 AM PDT Hi all, TL:DR How do I test a transformer? Long story is, our door company installed a video doorbell while they were out here working on the maglocks at our office. So this technically my home, but I wasn't sure what other subreddit to post it in. :-) Anyway after a lot of problems and trying various wifi tricks like moving it closer, I am wondering if it's a power issue after reading through another thread where someone said they had a bad transformer. We started with the Arlo and could never get that to work reliably so we switched to a Ring Pro and still having trouble. I did get it connected once before it went offline again and noticed under Device Health the power said "Poor" Here is a photo of the installed transformer. As you can see, I'm still using the Arlo adapter for the Ring because I assumed it would work the same, but I of course could be wrong. So how do I know if that transformer is putting out enough power? Should I consider getting a different transformer and which one would you suggest? Thanks! [link] [comments] |
| Getting ready to renovate a house and move into it! I want to make it into a smarthome! Posted: 16 Jun 2020 06:19 AM PDT |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 01:28 PM PDT I am looking for a smart button, can be wired or wireless to sit on my desk for turning a fan on and off. The Fan is connected to a tp-link smart plug. The closest I have seen so far are Alexa smart buttons (not available in UK) or smart things buttons (no smartthings hub). Can anyone suggest anything other than smartthings? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 06:56 AM PDT I've got a budget of around £250, does anyone recommend any particular one? I've seen good reviews for the Eufy S11, roomba 676 and the roborock e45. Any others that I should consider? [link] [comments] |
| Can I plug a smart plug into a power strip? Posted: 16 Jun 2020 09:22 AM PDT I'm planning to automate my TV and top box. Well, they're both plugged into a power strip with individual switches. Is it safe or a fire hazard to plug a smart plug into a power strip and leave them switched on for eternity? Thanks in advance! [link] [comments] |
| Use for Hue Bulbs with Lutron Caséta Setup Posted: 16 Jun 2020 06:59 AM PDT I've been in an apartment for the past few years without access to the breaker box, so had to rely on Philips Hue bulbs for all my automation. As you all know this isn't ideal, since the wife hates using her phone to turn off lights, and would constantly use the wall switches, ruining all the automation I set up. We just bought a new house and I bit the bullet on Lutron Caséta wall switches throughout the house. Super excited, but now I'm left with 12 Hue bulbs and the Hue bridge. Are these all obsolete now? Is there anything I can/should do with them? Or do I just dump them all on ebay? [link] [comments] |
| Posted: 16 Jun 2020 05:15 AM PDT I was installing a hue system last night. I was working on the third strip of lights (it was illuminated) and accidentally touched the cut end. The entire strip went dark. After I unplugged the strip and removed the third run of lights I can only get the first and second strips to illuminate. The sequence from the plug is first light strip, cut end to six pin connector, six pin to lan, lan cable, lan to six pin, six pin to splitter, second light strip, cut end to six pin, six pin to lan connector, third light strip. I have tried multiple light strips for the third strip and none will illuminate. Does anyone know where the fault may exist that is preventing any third strip from illuminating? Again the third strip did illuminate until I accidentally touched the cut end and now I can only get the first and second strip to illuminate. [link] [comments] |
| Security+ 2.0 with ESP8266/Konnected Posted: 16 Jun 2020 08:11 AM PDT I've recently added an ESP8266 with konnected firmware to my chamberlan garage door opener. I followed this guide to set it up. I've got it integrated within home assistant and the relay is setup as a momentary switch for 500ms. The setup works great with one exception, when I use the remote supplied with the opener it will operate once but then it seems that hold open is activated and the remote will no longer operate the door. The door is operational still through the wall button or the home assistant button. The two spots on the switch which I have connected the esp8266/relay to are shown here (my wall button is slightly different having light motion, time to close, etc). I have tried soldering to two different locations on the switch thinking that it had to do with spots on the switch that were shorted. The opener has myq which I still have hooked up while I work the bugs out. I have not tried the system with myq disconnected but I feel like this is an unrelated problem. Has anyone ran into this or have any suggestions as to why this is occurring? Edit: after reading through the manual the hold open button should blink as an indicator that the countdown has started to close the door after the time period I have chosen. [link] [comments] |
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